Homebrew PCBs

Its hard to say why your "plain" paper didn't work - material or 
technique.  I believe laser paper is formulated to fuse tightly with 
the toner - it may have less or no coating.  Inkjet paper is 
formulated with a coating so the ink does not soak in and widen.  I 
believe that coating is what makes it work for TT.

When I first tried IJ paper, it would pop off the the board while the 
toner was liquid and thus give me bad results.  By leaving the iron 
on and making it cool while in contact with copper made all the 
difference.  Also, roughing up the copper creates more surface area 
for bonding.

The other thing is you need a very hot iron.  Definitely linen 
setting.  I believe I said cotton earlier, I wuz rong.

Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" 
<geovar13@h...> wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> 
wrote:
> > stapes will have something. try this one - its looks pretty close 
> > http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/sku.asp?
> > 
> Cool I'll give that a try, Now why does plain paper works. I mean I 
> have plain paer here although I don't know what kind. I tried that 
> but it just laught at me. regardless I'm running low on paper so 
its 
> worth a couple of tries.
> 
> 
PageType=1&Sku=478684&bcFlag=True&bcSCatId=1&bcSCatName=Office+Supplie
> > 
> 
s&bcCatId=10&bcCatName=Paper&bcDeptId=1467&bcDeptName=Inkjet+Paper&bcC
> > lassId=140781&bcClassName=White+Inkjet+Paper
> > 
> > sorry about the long url, I dont have time to build a tinyurl.
> > 
> > if the url doesnt work its item #478684
> > 
> > Phil
> > 
> >   Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" 
<geovar13@h...> 
> > wrote:
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> 
> > wrote:
> > > > Let me second that
> > > > Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about 
> $5.00 
> > > for 500.
> > > > It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff 
package.
> > > 
> > > Hmm, we don't have any of those stores here in vermont.Or at 
> least 
> > > none close by. You would think that for such an expensive state 
> to 
> > > live in we would have more stuff to show for. Anyways, I'll see 
> if 
> > > they have anything close to that at staples and give it a try. 
> Now, 
> > > This morning I tried a small piece of left over PnP paper and 
it 
> > > worked pretty good exept for a few smears because I press the 
> iron 
> > > too hard. I also tried another piece of photo printer paper but 
> > this 
> > > time I did not soak it in water. I had better result without 
the 
> > > water but I was still mising some sections of the drawing. 
> > > 
> > >    Again, I'll give the inkjet paper a try and hope it does 
well. 
> I 
> > > mean for the proce is really good. However, this morning I 
tried 
> a 
> > > pice of lestover PnP paper and besides minor smear in one 
section 
> > it 
> > > transfered really good. What I'm saying is that if its a lot of 
> > work 
> > > to transfer the traces using other papers then I'll just stick 
to 
> > the 
> > > PnP. I mean is expensive but if it works?!! However, I won't 
give 
> > up 
> > > on other papers becuase the price and availability are just too 
> > good 
> > > to ignore.
> > > 
> > > > 
> > > > JT
> > > > 
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> > > > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM
> > > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper.  92 
white, 
> > 24 
> > > lb.
> > > > > Look in the database section of this group for the exact 
> > details 
> > > but
> > > > > I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work.  
The 
> > good
> > > > > news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" 
> <phil1960us@y...>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you,
> > > > > >
> > > > > >    now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular 
> white
> > > > > paper?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >   Another important question. Onced I finished I put the 
> > > leftover
> > > > > > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a 
> little 
> > bit
> > > > > left
> > > > > > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with 
> lots 
> > of
> > > > > > water. My question is should I neutralize that little 
> > leftover 
> > > with
> > > > > > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect 
the
> > > > > > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do 
is 
> > > take my
> > > > > > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since 
is 
> > for 
> > > non
> > > > > > comercial use then its free.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Congrats on progress.  It is very satisfying to see 
that 
> > > pattern
> > > > > > come
> > > > > > > out on the copper.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > You really dont need to use PnP.  Try, instead, using a 
> > decent
> > > > > > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special 
> > coatings, ...).  
> > > Use
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of 
> > > pressure.  I
> > > > > > use
> > > > > > > kids construction paper between the iron and the 
transfer 
> > > paper
> > > > > to
> > > > > > > even out the irregularities.   Once you are done with 
the
> > > > > ironing,
> > > > > > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the 
board/paper 
> > > until
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure 
good 
> > toner
> > > > > > > adhesion to the copper.  this process is highly 
reliable 
> > for 
> > > me
> > > > > and
> > > > > > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >    Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty 
> good. 
> > I
> > > > > > though
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most 
> > people
> > > > > > advice
> > > > > > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in 
> the 
> > > pads
> > > > > > did
> > > > > > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because 
> > there 
> > > is
> > > > > no
> > > > > > > > copper there.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >    Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I 
found 
> > out 
> > > that
> > > > > > my
> > > > > > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the 
> > pads 
> > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets 
> > left. 
> > > So
> > > > > > > after
> > > > > > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud 
you 
> > can 
> > > use
> > > > > > > staple
> > > > > > > > photo paper.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >   Now I tried using this process on another blank 
PCB. 
> I 
> > > dodn't
> > > > > > > know
> > > > > > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the 
> > toner 
> > > but
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > lot
> > > > > > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at 
> least 5
> > > > > times
> > > > > > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. 
I 
> > > would
> > > > > > like
> > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you 
> can 
> > get
> > > > > 200
> > > > > > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I 
> > cant 
> > > make
> > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >    I made the print out on the glossy side. I 
preheated 
> > the
> > > > > > copper
> > > > > > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of 
> > paper 
> > > on
> > > > > > top
> > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the 
> iron.I 
> > > Iron
> > > > > > that
> > > > > > > > thing left and right and any which way possible 
aplying 
> > > various
> > > > > > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water 
> then 
> > I
> > > > > gave
> > > > > > it
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > hot water bath. Now  the hot water was not boiling 
just 
> > as 
> > > hot
> > > > > as
> > > > > > I
> > > > > > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the 
paper 
> > off 
> > > and
> > > > > > > only
> > > > > > > > a few traces stuck.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >   In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie 
> in 
> > my
> > > > > board
> > > > > > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 
tries 
> > to 
> > > get
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too 
> > well. 
> > > The
> > > > > > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was 
a 
> > > mirror
> > > > > > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with 
> the 
> > > photo
> > > > > > > paper
> > > > > > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is 
> > > expensive.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks 
> and 
> > > files:
> > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >