Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Starting a CuCl etchant bath without H2O2
2013-08-03 by Kerry Koppert
... Sodium Percarbonate (aka solid hydrogen peroxide) is a mixture of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide Na2CO3.5H2O2. When dissolved in water it forms an
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2013-08-03 by Kerry Koppert
... Sodium Percarbonate (aka solid hydrogen peroxide) is a mixture of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide Na2CO3.5H2O2. When dissolved in water it forms an
2013-08-03 by epa_iii
I have uploaded two sets of drawings that illustrate my thoughts on this problem in the Photos section of the board.
2013-08-03 by Harvey White
... Not sure that this will work, but potassium persulfate is an etchant in and of itself. In the states, it s used as a shock treatment for swimming pools
2013-08-03 by Kerry Koppert
... Try some sodium percarbonate, 1 teaspoon/50ml of water, readily available as a cleaning agent. Add very slowly as it releases CO2 and O2. ... [Non-text
2013-08-02 by Kerry Koppert
... I don t know if the brand is available outside New Zealand, but it is fresh*paper brand OCCASIONS Photo & Presentation paper. 180 gsm glossy paper,
2013-08-02 by Philip Pemberton
... I mixed the stuff up yesterday, but I think the etchant might be a bit short on oxygen - after an hour or so it turned a dark brown and pretty much stopped
2013-08-02 by howard_g7lqy@sky.com
Hi It s prob just the clay from the paper. I just dump the board into the acid and it removes it when ecthing. 73 s Howard G7LQY GQRP: 12549 Loc: IO83UO
2013-08-02 by Donald H Locker
What is the paper? Do you know what the residue is? Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it s an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
2013-08-02 by Kerry Koppert
I ve finally found a paper that works with the laser transfer method. Only problem, it leaves a fine residue behind on an between the pads of smaller smd i.e,
2013-08-02 by Rick Sparber
That s OK. I can wait. Who knows, I might even find a substitute during this time. So far, no luck... Rick ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2013-08-01 by Rick Sparber
Update: The laminator does smooth out the foil. I was also able to transfer the toner from aluminum to paper in the laminator although don t see any practical
2013-08-01 by Harvey White
... On the other hand, this is a homebrew PC board group. The argument for doing boards yourself comes down to money and time. Generally, a board you do
2013-08-01 by Rick Sparber
I m glad you are being contrary . You are supplied an existence proof that at least one laser printer can print directly to a conductive surface. I just took
2013-08-01 by Jim
1980s technology: Back in the day, one of my CBer friends got some plans for a 2-transistor push-pull RF amplifier that used a double-sided PC board. He had
2013-08-01 by crazy_geekchick
With the web cam, I was wanting to make one of those semi-automatic registration artwork punches. On the artwork you make a round circle of a precise size. You
2013-08-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2013-08-01 by KeepIt SimpleStupid
As i said, I made a laser printed label for a project and I had to find a way to punch some clean holes and I tried a biopsy punch. e.g.
2013-08-01 by crazy_geekchick
I have never heard of the biopsy punch before. Did you go through all the layers of the artwork at once? I was thinking of using a replacement part for a
2013-08-01 by crazy_geekchick
How did you make the holes in the artwork?
2013-08-01 by ve7su
For those who reside in Canada, here s an optical punch available from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=1,180,42311 Jim
2013-08-01 by Harvey White
... Why bother to go that way when the copper from the boards you would etch would do the same, and get the boards etched? With a lot of oxygen available,
2013-08-01 by KeepIt SimpleStupid
________________________________ When I used the photosensitive method, I did the alignment holes the following way: I used tacks. So drilling holes in the
2013-08-01 by Harvey White
... It s along the same idea. No idea if it s more or less expensive, and even if it s exactly the same stuff, Naturally, you don t want the metallic foils
2013-08-01 by Philip Pemberton
... Ah. Looks like I should expect a ~10 day wait then. I have managed to get my hands on 200ml of 9% H2O2 ( look, that s all I can sell you, the law says
2013-08-01 by AlienRelics
BTW, that seems to be the same stuff as the Laser printer foils you can buy from paper and craft stores. Steve Greenfield AE7HD
2013-07-31 by Jim
I think I need to order one of these tools and put it in the toolchest next to my drill press. 73 Jim N6OTQ ... [Non-text portions of this message have been
2013-07-31 by Sam Rod
On some of my projects I place a 1/16 to 1/18 holes in/on my artwork. thats what I use to line up to the holes. Sometimes I use the mounting holes too. doesnt
2013-07-31 by crazy_geekchick
Drilling holes is a fine idea, but how does that put holes in the artwork to line it all up? That is the part I am worried about. Putting pins through the
2013-07-31 by David Pickering
Hi Rick Yes they are slow , my last order was about 5-6 weeks if I remember correctly ________________________________ From: Rick Sparber
2013-07-31 by David Pickering
Hi John Yes your correct and we all need to keep that in mind because we are all using all sorts of different printers even though all be it laser types there
2013-07-31 by Mark Lerman
I don t mean to be contrary, but I have used a laser printer to print directly on copper and on aluminum. I found that laser printers vary tremendously in
2013-07-31 by Pict
Hi Dave, Probably depends on the printer then. If I set my Canon MF4270 to the darkest print setting there is no toner laid down in completely white areas.
2013-07-31 by Rick Sparber
David, I spent a full day trying to merge your procedure with silicone coated paper (parchment paper). The results are not good enough. Lines a few thou wide
2013-07-31 by Rick Sparber
Malcolm, I normally do use a 200W bulb under the tub to both illuminate and warm the ferric chloride. My etch time is the same as yours. But when I work
2013-07-31 by Rick Sparber
Robin, Excellent summary. Thanks, Rick ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robin Whittle Sent: Tuesday,
2013-07-31 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Rick I have to use a heater in my Ferric etch tank to get to a reasonable etch temperature to give an etch time of 7 mins and that is set to 30 C, 86 F I do
2013-07-31 by <n0tt1@...>
About the grizzley tool... In case anyone is wondering how the tool works. The sights are the plastic cylinders with precise cross-hairs at the bottom. The
2013-07-31 by David Pickering
Hi Keith Only just opened your email Really interesting read Lucky i didn t damage the printer Thanks for the information If you progress down those lines
2013-07-31 by David Pickering
Hi Rick Its probably true because you wont see it cheaper anywhere else ________________________________ From: Rick Sparber To:
2013-07-31 by David Pickering
Hi John Darkest print option will make everything dark which is what we don t want. If your printer gives the options, go into graphics and select best quality
2013-07-31 by Robin Whittle
In the absence of a mailing list devoted to DIY self-adhesive labels and the like, I suggest that this subject is probably on-topic for Homebrew PCB. Firstly
2013-07-31 by cunningfellow
... Thanks Charlie, That looks the part for the lens (The hard part). Just need to replace the marking punch with a hole punch and probably a through bore on
2013-07-31 by <n0tt1@...>
OK, thanks for that info Harvey! Charlie On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 22:09:35 -0400 Harvey White writes: ... Pulsar (who makes a blue transfer
2013-07-31 by <n0tt1@...>
I purchased one of those from Grizzley Tools. Look here: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Optical-Punch-Set/H5781 Charlie On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 23:52:50 -0000
2013-07-31 by Harvey White
... Pulsar (who makes a blue transfer paper) recommends a light foil to seal the top of the toner. It s similar to the stuff that s sold in sheets. Put it
2013-07-31 by Harvey White
... If you use the HCL/peroxide etchant, it s so cheap that you don t need to worry too much. It also regenerates with air, so you don t need to worry about
2013-07-31 by Rick Sparber
Well, I learned a few things today. The most important lesson was that parchment paper does work but I had to use a roller after running it through the
2013-07-31 by cunningfellow
... The point behind a punch is that you want to easily line up the artwork with the registrations pins on a jig. Your PCB is taken as already being pre-
2013-07-31 by Sam Rod
Although the punch would / will work why make it more complicated? Seems to me their are many ways to accomplish this an most go with what works for them. One
2013-07-31 by Sam Rod
The green foil fills in micro gaps, and adds a layer of additional protecting to the transfer toner. other than that? nothing. Just my personal opinion If