Homebrew PCBs

I have a few questions about the mis-pro direct inkjet printing
method.  I saw it mentioned that the durabrite inks may soften during
etching, is the same true of the mis-pro ink?  Also, has anyone tried
mis-pro ink with a CuCl Etch?  I'm asking becuase I'm in the process
of wrapping up an Epson c88 conversion and am about done building a
spray etching machine.  I've been using CuCL etchant for some time and
would hate to have to change.  The spray etcher has a pretty aggresive
spray and I am concerned it washing the traced from the board.

Can anyone provide additional info?

Using the MS-PRO inks, properly applied and "cured" I find to be an
excellent resist to freshly mixed HCL/H2O2, which appears to me to be
a more aggresive etchant than the FeCL I have used.

John

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dpersuhn" <dpersuhn@...> wrote:

>
> I have a few questions about the mis-pro direct inkjet printing
> method.  I saw it mentioned that the durabrite inks may soften during
> etching, is the same true of the mis-pro ink?  Also, has anyone tried
> mis-pro ink with a CuCl Etch?  I'm asking becuase I'm in the process
> of wrapping up an Epson c88 conversion and am about done building a
> spray etching machine.  I've been using CuCL etchant for some time and
> would hate to have to change.  The spray etcher has a pretty aggresive
> spray and I am concerned it washing the traced from the board.
> 
> Can anyone provide additional info?
>

The HCl is the only ingredient that I can forsee causing me grief. 
I'm using a CuCl2 + HCl (1.3 molar).  Typically, I'm etching at about
125F with a rotary spray etching machine (my own elaborate creation).
 Typical processing is under 1 minute for 1oz boards.  Additional
upside is that undercut is really minimized with this setup, however,
the higher temp solution is far more aggressive to the resist, so
timing and resist quality are of the utmost importance.

For anyone aspiring to duplicate this setup, don't try this at home
without a lab type fume hood.  HCl at 125F is exceptionally unpleasant
stuff to work with, you'd rather not get a lung full of the fumes.

Dave

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jam5411" <mardock@...> wrote:

>
> Using the MS-PRO inks, properly applied and "cured" I find to be an
> excellent resist to freshly mixed HCL/H2O2, which appears to me to be
> a more aggresive etchant than the FeCL I have used.
> 
> John