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can anybody post a pic?

can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-10 by ptkwg

can anybody post a pic of a PCB made with an hp p1006? preferably as magnified as possible, both before (with toner transferred) and after it was etched?

the reason I'm asking is because i have had it with my samsung ml-2571, just has too many microholes after etching. I have used magazine paper, transparency, sticker-backing. Set the printer to print as dark as possible. All the toner gets transferred but just too much pitting :-(. I should have bought the p1006 back then but it was too new and without any feedback at the time. If this printer is really good the samsung is headed to zombieland.

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-10 by sailingto

Where are you located?  I could print a sample and mail to you. I've not had the best of luck with some papers myself, have you tried the HP Presentation paper? (forget the number) or best of all, the Pulsar toner transfer paper.  While it "seems" expensive, by reusing each sheet several times, and cutting only paper the size of the board, it looks like it might cost me $15/yr?

Pop me a email and we'll continue this off line, OR hop over to homebrew_PCB group where they talk about PCB a LOT.

73 de Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> can anybody post a pic of a PCB made with an hp p1006? preferably as magnified as possible, both before (with toner transferred) and after it was etched?
> 
> the reason I'm asking is because i have had it with my samsung ml-2571, just has too many microholes after etching. I have used magazine paper, transparency, sticker-backing. Set the printer to print as dark as possible. All the toner gets transferred but just too much pitting :-(. I should have bought the p1006 back then but it was too new and without any feedback at the time. If this printer is really good the samsung is headed to zombieland.
>

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-10 by sailingto

Oh, I meant to mention I'm using a P1006 and am happy with it.  My first laser was a Brother... and "Oh Brother".

Ken H.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> can anybody post a pic of a PCB made with an hp p1006? preferably as magnified as possible, both before (with toner transferred) and after it was etched?
> 
> the reason I'm asking is because i have had it with my samsung ml-2571, just has too many microholes after etching. I have used magazine paper, transparency, sticker-backing. Set the printer to print as dark as possible. All the toner gets transferred but just too much pitting :-(. I should have bought the p1006 back then but it was too new and without any feedback at the time. If this printer is really good the samsung is headed to zombieland.
>

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-10 by sailingto

Ooops - I forgot I was in Homebrew_PCB group.  Darn this old age - but old age beats the alternative.

I reckon I was thinking I was over in Electronics_101 or somewhere.

Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> can anybody post a pic of a PCB made with an hp p1006? preferably as magnified as possible, both before (with toner transferred) and after it was etched?
> 
> the reason I'm asking is because i have had it with my samsung ml-2571, just has too many microholes after etching. I have used magazine paper, transparency, sticker-backing. Set the printer to print as dark as possible. All the toner gets transferred but just too much pitting :-(. I should have bought the p1006 back then but it was too new and without any feedback at the time. If this printer is really good the samsung is headed to zombieland.
>

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-11 by ptkwg

I'm in another country. Just a close up photo of your board done with the p1006 will suffice. I dont think trying other types of paper would work, all the samsung toner DOES get transfered to my boards but even with 'toner save mode' set to OFF there's just too many tiny holes. I'm using a laminator capable of 190 Centigrade (374F?) and no good. I even tried ironing it with a higher temp, no good either. I also tried thing with my sister's Canon - it was horrible. So HP p1006 users a little assist before I go for it? Thanks.

ptkwg




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Ooops - I forgot I was in Homebrew_PCB group.  Darn this old age - but old age beats the alternative.
> 
> I reckon I was thinking I was over in Electronics_101 or somewhere.
> 
> Ken H>
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@> wrote:
> >
> > can anybody post a pic of a PCB made with an hp p1006? preferably as magnified as possible, both before (with toner transferred) and after it was etched?
> > 
> > the reason I'm asking is because i have had it with my samsung ml-2571, just has too many microholes after etching. I have used magazine paper, transparency, sticker-backing. Set the printer to print as dark as possible. All the toner gets transferred but just too much pitting :-(. I should have bought the p1006 back then but it was too new and without any feedback at the time. If this printer is really good the samsung is headed to zombieland.
> >
>

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-11 by sailingto

ptkwg, check the Photos section for a folder KenH - as soon as approved you should find a couple of photos.  The toner pic has Pulsar on left and Parchment paper on right.  You can see the thin toner on the parchment. I am not sure why, the parchment does not get covered with toner as good as normal paper.  The parchment paper at 30X shows the thin toner just like the transferred pic.

The etched board is a test I did a while back - the solder blobs are where I did a good bit of rework several times.

I hope this helps. I am told once a toner cartridge gets low the transfer gets thin as you describe.  I'm sure you have removed the cartridge and shook it?

Good luck and hope this helps.

Ken H> 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I'm in another country. Just a close up photo of your board done with the p1006 will suffice. I dont think trying other types of paper would work, all the samsung toner DOES get transfered to my boards but even with 'toner save mode' set to OFF there's just too many tiny holes. I'm using a laminator capable of 190 Centigrade (374F?) and no good. I even tried ironing it with a higher temp, no good either. I also tried thing with my sister's Canon - it was horrible. So HP p1006 users a little assist before I go for it? Thanks.
> 
> ptkwg

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-11 by ptkwg

I see it now. And it is so much better than I can get from my samsung. I do shake the cartridge everytime before I do a series of prints although I'm still using the cartridge that came with the printer. Thanks for posting.

ptkwg

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> ptkwg, check the Photos section for a folder KenH - as soon as approved you should find a couple of photos.  The toner pic has Pulsar on left and Parchment paper on right.  You can see the thin toner on the parchment. I am not sure why, the parchment does not get covered with toner as good as normal paper.  The parchment paper at 30X shows the thin toner just like the transferred pic.
> 
> The etched board is a test I did a while back - the solder blobs are where I did a good bit of rework several times.
> 
> I hope this helps. I am told once a toner cartridge gets low the transfer gets thin as you describe.  I'm sure you have removed the cartridge and shook it?
> 
> Good luck and hope this helps.
> 
> Ken H> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm in another country. Just a close up photo of your board done with the p1006 will suffice. I dont think trying other types of paper would work, all the samsung toner DOES get transfered to my boards but even with 'toner save mode' set to OFF there's just too many tiny holes. I'm using a laminator capable of 190 Centigrade (374F?) and no good. I even tried ironing it with a higher temp, no good either. I also tried thing with my sister's Canon - it was horrible. So HP p1006 users a little assist before I go for it? Thanks.
> > 
> > ptkwg
>

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-11 by sailingto

I'm glad to help - you can see the difference in the Pulsar vs Parchment paper.  I wish I had a HP Presentation paper sample to put there also.  I do think the HP paper does as good as the Pulsar paper, but the Pulsar is so much easier to remove.

Ken H.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ptkwg" <ptkwg@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I see it now. And it is so much better than I can get from my samsung. I do shake the cartridge everytime before I do a series of prints although I'm still using the cartridge that came with the printer. Thanks for posting.
> 
> ptkwg

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-12 by Piers Goodhew

That pretty much correlates with the "rough traces" I was getting with what
I call baking paper. I think it might be due to the silicone paper not
holding as much charge (the toner being electrostatically attracted to the
paper). It's a theory anyway.

A shame, cos it's so damn easy!

PG

On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 2:16 AM, sailingto <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
>
> I'm glad to help - you can see the difference in the Pulsar vs Parchment
> paper. I wish I had a HP Presentation paper sample to put there also. I do
> think the HP paper does as good as the Pulsar paper, but the Pulsar is so
> much easier to remove.
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: can anybody post a pic?

2010-03-12 by sailingto

Yep, I when I ran the first paper thru it sure "looked" good - just a casual look and I though the toner was black as it should be.  After ST I think it was mentioned "did you etch?" cause he knew it wouldn't work.  I looked under microscope and could see the problem easy, after that, I could just the problem.

Boy that baking paper sure turns loose easy!  I think your idea on why the toner doesn't adhere is as close as any idea.

Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> That pretty much correlates with the "rough traces" I was getting with what
> I call baking paper. I think it might be due to the silicone paper not
> holding as much charge (the toner being electrostatically attracted to the
> paper). It's a theory anyway.
> 
> A shame, cos it's so damn easy!
> 
> PG
> 
> On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 2:16 AM, sailingto <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > I'm glad to help - you can see the difference in the Pulsar vs Parchment
> > paper. I wish I had a HP Presentation paper sample to put there also. I do
> > think the HP paper does as good as the Pulsar paper, but the Pulsar is so
> > much easier to remove.
> >
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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