[Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video
2014-07-18 by Mark Lerman
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2014-07-18 by Mark Lerman
Hello all, Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified laser printer to print toner directly on copperclad: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8> Mark
2014-07-18 by Rick Sparber
Mark, Can you say more about how you modified the laser printer? Thanks, Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 11:50 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video Hello all, Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified laser printer to print toner directly on copperclad: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8> Mark ------------------------------------ Posted by: Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links
2014-07-18 by Mark Lerman
I'm going to post an Instructible soon. There are two versions of the hack. The simplest just requires removal of the fuser, adding a set of input rollers, and moving the exit sensor (or adding a microprocessor), but it only allows .032 thick pcbs. To get thicker boards you need to cut a bit of plastic and add a microprocessor. Not hard, but does take some time. At 05:39 PM 7/18/2014, you wrote:
>Mark, > > >Can you say more about how you modified the laser printer? > > >Thanks, > > >Rick > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] >Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 11:50 AM >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video > > >Hello all, > > >Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified laser >printer to print toner directly on copperclad: > > ><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8> > > >Mark > > > > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> >------------------------------------ > > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > > >Yahoo Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo Groups Links > > >
2014-07-19 by wb8nbs@...
2014-07-19 by Peter Johansson
2014-07-19 by Mark Lerman
Is this modification limited to a specific model of Lexmark printer?
2014-07-19 by wb8nbs@...
2014-07-19 by Mark Lerman
Trying to get the local Makerspace interested in the project.
Lexmark printers can really lay down heavy ink. I've had good luck doing iron on toner transfer boards with my 4039 10+.
2014-08-02 by Mark Lerman
I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in <15 minutes. Mark <http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/>
2014-08-02 by Boman33
Thanks Mark,
That is an excellent job and write-up!
Bertho
I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to
convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in
<15 minutes.
Mark
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/>
2014-08-03 by Mark Lerman
Is this modification limited to a specific model of Lexmark printer?
2014-08-03 by jdwalton@...
2014-08-03 by Mark Lerman
Thanks, very neat -- but puzzled by why it's so quiet in your lab?
2014-08-03 by Cristian
> > >I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to >convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in ><15 minutes. You mention imperial size,but what with the rest of the world who aren't able to find, let say a 4-40 screw. If it is to be used with a nut, will be ok, can be replaced with a metric pair, but if it is to be screwed in an already threaded hole in the printer's body will be a big problem. BTW, very good design! Cristian
2014-08-03 by Mark Lerman
Sorry about the provincial attitude, but I didn't want to translate. The printer is metric, but no new screws have to go into a threaded hole, anyway. For the record, 4-40 is 2.845 mm diameter, so a m3 should work, and 6-32 is 3.505mm. You can use a m4 here, but an m3 would be fine. At 01:03 PM 8/3/2014, you wrote:
> > > > > >I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to > >convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in > ><15 minutes. > >You mention imperial size,but what with the rest of the world who aren't >able to find, let say a 4-40 screw. >If it is to be used with a nut, will be ok, can be replaced with a >metric pair, >but if it is to be screwed in an already threaded hole in the printer's body >will be a big problem. >BTW, very good design! >Cristian > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...> >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo Groups Links > > >
2014-08-03 by twgray2007@...
2014-08-03 by Mark Lerman
How do you handle registration when doing a 2-sided board?
2014-08-04 by Cristian
Sorry about the provincial attitude, but I didn't want to translate
The printer is metric, but no new screws have to go into a threaded
hole, anyway.
2014-08-04 by dgminala@...
>
Mark
2014-08-04 by Mark Lerman
I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?
Thanks,
Dave M
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, wrote :
Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>
Mark
2014-08-04 by Mark Lerman
I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?
Thanks,
Dave M
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, wrote :
Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>
Mark
2014-08-04 by Bill Maxwell
Hard to tell because I have opened these so many times, but I would guess somewhere in the 10-12 hour range. The actual time to do it is much less, but keeping yourself oriented, keeping track of screws, etc will require attention.
There is another version of the hack that is physically simpler, but it requires the use of a microcontroller. It's actually the method I prefer, but I wanted to make the process accessible to people without microcontroller familiarity.
Mark
Mark
At 10:55 AM 8/4/2014, you wrote:
I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?
Thanks,
Dave M
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, wrote :
Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>
Mark
2014-08-04 by Mark
It really is very simple. You can either leave the Manual Feed Paper Sensor in or remove it. If you remove it you can actually use one of the Operator Panel switches (the Cancel button) to pull the PCB into the rollers. The only other sensor you would need is the equivalent of the Paper In Sensor (PIS), and the simplest is an optical sensor, either reflective, reading a piece of black tape on the edge or bottom of the carrier, or a "U" shaped one, reading a hole in the carrier. This sensor can be mounted externally, right on the Paper Guide. An Exit Sensor is not needed since the MCU can just emulate one in software. Aside from the PIS, which can be salvaged from one of the unused sensors if U shaped, or bought for a dollar or two if reflective, you just need the MCU chip and maybe a bypass capacitor. You can easily do without even a PCB!
All of my earlier machines used the MCU, though as indicated in a previous post, the first ones were unnecessarily complex. I decided to not use the MCU in the Instructables version to simplify the process, even though this required considerably more mechanical work.
One nice thing about DLP is that a run takes just a few seconds. If the print isn't perfect you can just wipe the toner off with a paper towel and run it through again. Just a few seconds between runs! Try that with Toner Transfer!
Happy to answer further questions.
BTW, I am modifying the actual printing process a bit. I think by first using the acetone fix, then running it through a laminator I get better adhesion of the toner to the copper. Just made a PCB using all 5 mil traces, and it came out great. Still have a few more small bugs to work out, but I think the bottom line will be 4-5 mil traces, though I'm not sure if I can make the spaces between traces that small. More to come.
Mark
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-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Maxwell wrmaxwell@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Aug 4, 2014 6:35 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video
Can you tell us more about the microcontroller hack Mark?
On 5/08/2014 2:39 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:Hard to tell because I have opened these so many times, but I would guess somewhere in the 10-12 hour range. The actual time to do it is much less, but keeping yourself oriented, keeping track of screws, etc will require attention.
There is another version of the hack that is physically simpler, but it requires the use of a microcontroller. It's actually the method I prefer, but I wanted to make the process accessible to people without microcontroller familiarity.
Mark
Mark
At 10:55 AM 8/4/2014, you wrote:
I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?
Thanks,
Dave M
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, wrote :
Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>
Mark
2014-08-05 by twgray2007@...
2014-08-05 by Mark Lerman
My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu savvy. And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack. I know that I am all about simplifying the hardware design with an mcu...I mean, that is how Atmel and Microchip got their start...making a built in, low end processor cheaper and easier than a commenusurate amount of hardware.
2014-08-05 by Cristian
>I'll try to get to it soon - Mark > >>My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu >>savvy. And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much >>effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack. Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good for now, please? Cristian
2014-08-05 by Mark Lerman
Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you for the cost of shipping. Mark At 09:20 AM 8/5/2014, you wrote:
> >I'll try to get to it soon - Mark > > > >>My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu > >>savvy. And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much > >>effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack. > >Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good >for now, please? >Cristian > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...> >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo Groups Links > > >
2014-08-05 by Cristian
At 04:28 PM 05-08-14, you wrote: > > > >Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you >for the cost of shipping. > >Mark > > > > >Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good > >for now, please? > >Cristian I'm afraid that the two shippings will cost me more than a new mcu. How much is that new mcu shipped to Romania, please? Is there the .hex available, to let me re-programm locally? Cristian
2014-08-05 by Mark Lerman
I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use? Mark At 09:38 AM 8/5/2014, you wrote:
>At 04:28 PM 05-08-14, you wrote: > > > > > > > >Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you > >for the cost of shipping. > > > >Mark > > > > > > > >Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good > > >for now, please? > > >Cristian > >I'm afraid that the two shippings will cost me more than a new mcu. >How much is that new mcu shipped to Romania, please? > >Is there the .hex available, to let me re-programm locally? >Cristian > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...> >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo Groups Links > > >
2014-08-05 by Cristian
At 05:04 PM 05-08-14, you wrote: > > >I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the >hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use? TINY 13 on both boards. I have two versions (two different boards), your first two versions, years ago. I'll send to your mail the photo. Also, please let me know how to connect the 6 pins ISP connector. Cristian
2014-08-05 by Mark Lerman
I'll get the data to you in a few days, but the ISP is in the same configuration as the AVRISP ISP programmer. <http://www.batsocks.co.uk/readme/isp_headers.htm>. It's the 6 pin connector, and the diagram shows you viewing it from the top. The cable from the programmer goes to the right, assuming you are using the AVRISP such as<http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/in-circuit-programmers-emulators-and-debuggers/2621880?k=avrisp>. Mark At 02:05 PM 8/5/2014, you wrote:
>At 05:04 PM 05-08-14, you wrote: > > > > > >I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the > >hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use? > >TINY 13 on both boards. >I have two versions (two different boards), your first two versions, >years ago. >I'll send to your mail the photo. >Also, please let me know how to connect the 6 pins ISP connector. >Cristian > > > >------------------------------------ >Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...> >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo Groups Links > > >
2014-09-03 by randee01@...
2014-09-04 by Mark Lerman
Went to ebay to buy the Lexmark but noticed there were several versions of the E260 such as an a, an d, dn etc. What is yours?
Randy