Analogue-sequencer

Hello, had the P3 up and running for a day or so now.  Still working 
through the functionality.

One issue did crop up.  I am one of many (mostly male) people with a 
colo(u)r deficiency.  Whenever I take those standardized color tests 
(cf: http://www.toledo-bend.com/colorblind/Ishihara.html) I mostly
see just spots.

On the P3, it's virtually impossible for me to distinguish when an
LED is red/green/amber when it's in the middle of other lit LEDs. 
Most of the time the fact that it's lit is sufficient, and when
adjacent steps are off, I can usually tell.

However, it would be nice if there was a way to either lower the 
current so that maybe I can see more difference, or else replace them 
with tricolor LEDs that use a different set of wavelenghts.

Any thoughts?

--- In analogue-sequencer@yahoogroups.com, "Colin f" <colin@c...> 
wrote:
>  
> 
> > One issue did crop up.  I am one of many (mostly male) people 
with a 
> > colo(u)r deficiency.  Whenever I take those standardized color 
tests 
> > (cf: http://www.toledo-bend.com/colorblind/Ishihara.html) I mostly
> > see just spots.
> > 
> > On the P3, it's virtually impossible for me to distinguish when an
> > LED is red/green/amber when it's in the middle of other lit LEDs. 
> > Most of the time the fact that it's lit is sufficient, and when
> > adjacent steps are off, I can usually tell.
> > 
> 
> In one of RMI's P3s, I used the red and blue elements of some RGB 
LEDs in
> place of the red/green LEDs.
> Duncan should be able to tell us if that helped his colour-blind 
bandmate.
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Colin Fraser
> Sequentix Music Systems Ltd
> http://www.sequentix.com

Good idea.  I'll contact Duncan.  How's the current draw?  comparable?

I'm very comfortable doing some soldering so I'd probably do the LED 
mod myself as needed.

Thanks

> One issue did crop up.  I am one of many (mostly male) people with a 
> colo(u)r deficiency.  Whenever I take those standardized color tests 
> (cf: http://www.toledo-bend.com/colorblind/Ishihara.html) I mostly
> see just spots.
> 
> On the P3, it's virtually impossible for me to distinguish when an
> LED is red/green/amber when it's in the middle of other lit LEDs. 
> Most of the time the fact that it's lit is sufficient, and when
> adjacent steps are off, I can usually tell.
> 
> However, it would be nice if there was a way to either lower the 
> current so that maybe I can see more difference, or else replace them 
> with tricolor LEDs that use a different set of wavelenghts.

In one of RMI's P3s, I used the red and blue elements of some RGB LEDs in
place of the red/green LEDs.
Duncan should be able to tell us if that helped his colour-blind bandmate.

The LEDs I used had 6 legs - 1 red anode, 1 green anode, 2 blue anodes and 2
cathodes.
It was a simple job to clip off 3 legs, leaving just the red, common cathode
and blue legs.
I can do this as a special order in future if required.
It'll cost a bit more though - the RGB LEDs are about a lot more expensive.

Best regards,
Colin Fraser
Sequentix Music Systems Ltd
http://www.sequentix.com

> Good idea.  I'll contact Duncan.  How's the current draw?  comparable?

No other change needed with the LEDs I used.
 
> I'm very comfortable doing some soldering so I'd probably do the LED 
> mod myself as needed.

The boards are all thru hole plated, so it's easiest to just clip off the
old LEDs then de-solder each leg by itself.
Mounting the new LEDs all to the same height is the tricky bit, though I've
started using 6.4mm spacers now.
I'm sure a US supplier should have some of those.
Only solder the middle leg, then test fit the board to get the LEDs lined up
in their holes before soldering the other legs - this stops them going in at
the wrong angle.

Best regards,
Colin Fraser
Sequentix Music Systems Ltd
http://www.sequentix.com

>>In one of RMI's P3s, I used the red and blue elements of some RGB 
LEDs in place of the red/green LEDs. Duncan should be able to tell us 
if that helped his colour-blind bandmate.<<

the red/blue/mauve combination is clearly visible to steve as three 
states. he is profoundly r/g blind, & is absolutely useless when it 
comes to artwork-approval & the like.
however, there are a number of other reasons why- thus far- he still 
prefers the maq sequencer. I think the p3 is a bit too deep for a 
drummer.... :-)
another handicap is that it makes the manual rather difficult to 
follow; for this reason, my 2nd p3 has the standard colour scheme.

btw, tom- did you successfully complete the sale of that twin-pack I 
encountered on ebay? only, this week, I had what looked suspiciously 
like a fake 2nd-chance thing from some guy called stuart something. if 
I could log onto my work mail (server's down...) I'd forward you the 
details. I think I'll have to bubble the guy to the authorities.

duncan.

Hi
 
   is the P3 able to trigger its 8 sequences via midi keyboard rather than its clock  ? or store midi sequences which run at different time signatures etc , some like fast arps etc and then  ' play triggger ' them from midi or on the onboard buttons?I maybe sounded confused:).Basically take 8 sequences , put them one on each of 8 keyboard notes and then start and stop the 8 sequences in realtime , like playing/jamming the sequences in realtime.
 
cheers for any advice.
 
mat
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>    is the P3 able to trigger its 8 sequences via midi 
> keyboard rather than its clock  ? or store midi sequences 
> which run at different time signatures etc , some like fast 
> arps etc and then  ' play triggger ' them from midi or on the 
> onboard buttons?I maybe sounded confused:).Basically take 8 
> sequences , put them one on each of 8 keyboard notes and then 
> start and stop the 8 sequences in realtime , like 
> playing/jamming the sequences in realtime.

Not yet.
Remote clocking of patterns from an external keyboard is on the TBI list.
Manual trigger of patterns was discussed some time ago, and might come along
too.

Best regards,
Colin Fraser
Sequentix Music Systems Ltd
http://www.sequentix.com