Digital BW, The Print

Need any info on parking my printer, 1200 epson, with cis and Mis VM 
inks for app 3 months. What is the best way to shut it down for that 
length of time and not have to throw it away when I return

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Vinny
http://www.wulfsden.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
<orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> 
> Need any info on parking my printer, 1200 epson, with cis and Mis VM 
> inks for app 3 months. What is the best way to shut it down for that 
> length of time and not have to throw it away when I return
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> 
> Vinny
> http://www.wulfsden.com

I disagree with Paul. Cleaning carts I have never had sucess with, 
they are misnamed- only for switching inks, not "cleaning". Except 
some that We-Ink sells and they will not work well for pigment inks. 
Maybe someone has found something out there that I haven't, but I 
remain cynical. Epson carts work like a charm.

You need to remove CIS and put in brand new Epson carts. Make sure you 
run purge patterns until the nozzles are clear of the MIS ink and the 
Epson is flowing freely. Epson ink has a solvent in it that keeps the 
nozzles more or less open. Yet you will still need to run a purge 
print, nozzle check, and maybe a cleaning cycle at LEAST every three 
weeks. If it were me, I'd run one every 4 days even at that, but the 
climate is dry here.

The next thing is make sure the humidity in the room NEVER, EVER drops 
below 40%RH. 50%RH would be good, more than this is not needed. Try to 
keep the temperature between 65 degrees f and about 72 degrees. The 
printer doesn't seem to like over about 77 degrees, esp.

You might get away with the CIS intact for about 3-4 weeks, but for 
three months-whew, you might want to plan on simply replacing the 
carts at the tubing fittings and cutting your losses. Paul is correct 
here, you will endanger your printer by trying to blow an old CIS into 
it, believe me it's not worth it. So getting bottle caps with no 
openings to seal the bottles is good, and wash out the tubing lines 
prior to leaving. I have never replaced CIS carts myself but I know 
what happens when you don't and try to install old ones.

I would also discard any ink that has been used in a CIS, operating or 
not, after about 8-12 months, but I'm probably in the minority 
opionion here. 


A good alternative is to keep the CIS/ink in place and run the MIS 
purge pattern on plain paper once or twice a day followed by a nozzle 
check and no more than two-three cleanings. Put 40%ethanol to 60% 
distilled water on the parking pad if this doesn't revive it.

 I have to run this nonsense every  12 hours just to keep my 
1280/CFS/MIS VM ink clear. When the humidity drops below 40%RH or the 
temp goes above about 74 the number of cleaning cycles with each 
interval print rises from 0-1 to 2-3. Very dramatic. I have problems 
with keeping temperature down in the studio when it is too cold 
outside for air conditioner to turn on, and currently am working on a 
ventilation system that will draw in cold air from outside in fall and 
winter.
Jim H.

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the oem epson, it was the 
cis that worried me, as you say i may have to just cut my losses and 
buy a new cis cart.

Vinny


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "jim hayes" <jimhayes@j...> 
wrote:
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
> <orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> > 
> > Need any info on parking my printer, 1200 epson, with cis and Mis 
VM 
> > inks for app 3 months. What is the best way to shut it down for 
that 
> > length of time and not have to throw it away when I return
> > 
> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> > 
> > Vinny
> > http://www.wulfsden.com
> 
> I disagree with Paul. Cleaning carts I have never had sucess with, 
> they are misnamed- only for switching inks, not "cleaning". Except 
> some that We-Ink sells and they will not work well for pigment 
inks. 
> Maybe someone has found something out there that I haven't, but I 
> remain cynical. Epson carts work like a charm.
> 
> You need to remove CIS and put in brand new Epson carts. Make sure 
you 
> run purge patterns until the nozzles are clear of the MIS ink and 
the 
> Epson is flowing freely. Epson ink has a solvent in it that keeps 
the 
> nozzles more or less open. Yet you will still need to run a purge 
> print, nozzle check, and maybe a cleaning cycle at LEAST every 
three 
> weeks. If it were me, I'd run one every 4 days even at that, but 
the 
> climate is dry here.
> 
> The next thing is make sure the humidity in the room NEVER, EVER 
drops 
> below 40%RH. 50%RH would be good, more than this is not needed. Try 
to 
> keep the temperature between 65 degrees f and about 72 degrees. The 
> printer doesn't seem to like over about 77 degrees, esp.
> 
> You might get away with the CIS intact for about 3-4 weeks, but for 
> three months-whew, you might want to plan on simply replacing the 
> carts at the tubing fittings and cutting your losses. Paul is 
correct 
> here, you will endanger your printer by trying to blow an old CIS 
into 
> it, believe me it's not worth it. So getting bottle caps with no 
> openings to seal the bottles is good, and wash out the tubing lines 
> prior to leaving. I have never replaced CIS carts myself but I know 
> what happens when you don't and try to install old ones.
> 
> I would also discard any ink that has been used in a CIS, operating 
or 
> not, after about 8-12 months, but I'm probably in the minority 
> opionion here. 
> 
> 
> A good alternative is to keep the CIS/ink in place and run the MIS 
> purge pattern on plain paper once or twice a day followed by a 
nozzle 
> check and no more than two-three cleanings. Put 40%ethanol to 60% 
> distilled water on the parking pad if this doesn't revive it.
> 
>  I have to run this nonsense every  12 hours just to keep my 
> 1280/CFS/MIS VM ink clear. When the humidity drops below 40%RH or 
the 
> temp goes above about 74 the number of cleaning cycles with each 
> interval print rises from 0-1 to 2-3. Very dramatic. I have 
problems 
> with keeping temperature down in the studio when it is too cold 
> outside for air conditioner to turn on, and currently am working on 
a 
> ventilation system that will draw in cold air from outside in fall 
and 
> winter.
> Jim H.

Vinny, it's a gamble. You could just reinstall the CIS and have no 
problem. Me, I think to myself, whay should I take a chance of having 
to revive both printhead and CIS? I have at times been able to recover 
a head, only to block it up immediately with a stored CIS. I now use 
CFS system, a cheaper alternative, lesser in quality...but it allows 
me to just toss the main part whenever a chunk of time has passed.
Jim H.




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
<orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the oem epson, it was the 
> cis that worried me, as you say i may have to just cut my losses and 
> buy a new cis cart.
> 
> Vinny
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "jim hayes" 
<jimhayes@j...> 
> wrote:
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
> > <orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > Need any info on parking my printer, 1200 epson, with cis and 
Mis 
> VM 
> > > inks for app 3 months. What is the best way to shut it down for 
> that 
> > > length of time and not have to throw it away when I return
> > > 
> > > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> > > 
> > > Vinny
> > > http://www.wulfsden.com
> > 
> > I disagree with Paul. Cleaning carts I have never had sucess with, 
> > they are misnamed- only for switching inks, not "cleaning". Except 
> > some that We-Ink sells and they will not work well for pigment 
> inks. 
> > Maybe someone has found something out there that I haven't, but I 
> > remain cynical. Epson carts work like a charm.
> > 
> > You need to remove CIS and put in brand new Epson carts. Make sure 
> you 
> > run purge patterns until the nozzles are clear of the MIS ink and 
> the 
> > Epson is flowing freely. Epson ink has a solvent in it that keeps 
> the 
> > nozzles more or less open. Yet you will still need to run a purge 
> > print, nozzle check, and maybe a cleaning cycle at LEAST every 
> three 
> > weeks. If it were me, I'd run one every 4 days even at that, but 
> the 
> > climate is dry here.
> > 
> > The next thing is make sure the humidity in the room NEVER, EVER 
> drops 
> > below 40%RH. 50%RH would be good, more than this is not needed. 
Try 
> to 
> > keep the temperature between 65 degrees f and about 72 degrees. 
The 
> > printer doesn't seem to like over about 77 degrees, esp.
> > 
> > You might get away with the CIS intact for about 3-4 weeks, but 
for 
> > three months-whew, you might want to plan on simply replacing the 
> > carts at the tubing fittings and cutting your losses. Paul is 
> correct 
> > here, you will endanger your printer by trying to blow an old CIS 
> into 
> > it, believe me it's not worth it. So getting bottle caps with no 
> > openings to seal the bottles is good, and wash out the tubing 
lines 
> > prior to leaving. I have never replaced CIS carts myself but I 
know 
> > what happens when you don't and try to install old ones.
> > 
> > I would also discard any ink that has been used in a CIS, 
operating 
> or 
> > not, after about 8-12 months, but I'm probably in the minority 
> > opionion here. 
> > 
> > 
> > A good alternative is to keep the CIS/ink in place and run the MIS 
> > purge pattern on plain paper once or twice a day followed by a 
> nozzle 
> > check and no more than two-three cleanings. Put 40%ethanol to 60% 
> > distilled water on the parking pad if this doesn't revive it.
> > 
> >  I have to run this nonsense every  12 hours just to keep my 
> > 1280/CFS/MIS VM ink clear. When the humidity drops below 40%RH or 
> the 
> > temp goes above about 74 the number of cleaning cycles with each 
> > interval print rises from 0-1 to 2-3. Very dramatic. I have 
> problems 
> > with keeping temperature down in the studio when it is too cold 
> > outside for air conditioner to turn on, and currently am working 
on 

> a 
> > ventilation system that will draw in cold air from outside in fall 
> and 
> > winter.
> > Jim H.

Jim, I am not quite sure of the difference between a CIS and CFS, 
Maybe you can help me with the difference
Thanks in advance

Vinny


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "jim hayes" <jimhayes@j...> 
wrote:
> Vinny, it's a gamble. You could just reinstall the CIS and have no 
> problem. Me, I think to myself, whay should I take a chance of 
having 
> to revive both printhead and CIS? I have at times been able to 
recover 
> a head, only to block it up immediately with a stored CIS. I now 
use 
> CFS system, a cheaper alternative, lesser in quality...but it 
allows 
> me to just toss the main part whenever a chunk of time has passed.
> Jim H.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
> <orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> > Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the oem epson, it was 
the 
> > cis that worried me, as you say i may have to just cut my losses 
and 
> > buy a new cis cart.
> > 
> > Vinny
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "jim hayes" 
> <jimhayes@j...> 
> > wrote:
> > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
> > > <orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > Need any info on parking my printer, 1200 epson, with cis and 
> Mis 
> > VM 
> > > > inks for app 3 months. What is the best way to shut it down 
for 
> > that 
> > > > length of time and not have to throw it away when I return
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> > > > 
> > > > Vinny
> > > > http://www.wulfsden.com
> > > 
> > > I disagree with Paul. Cleaning carts I have never had sucess 
with, 
> > > they are misnamed- only for switching inks, not "cleaning". 
Except 
> > > some that We-Ink sells and they will not work well for pigment 
> > inks. 
> > > Maybe someone has found something out there that I haven't, but 
I 
> > > remain cynical. Epson carts work like a charm.
> > > 
> > > You need to remove CIS and put in brand new Epson carts. Make 
sure 
> > you 
> > > run purge patterns until the nozzles are clear of the MIS ink 
and 
> > the 
> > > Epson is flowing freely. Epson ink has a solvent in it that 
keeps 
> > the 
> > > nozzles more or less open. Yet you will still need to run a 
purge 
> > > print, nozzle check, and maybe a cleaning cycle at LEAST every 
> > three 
> > > weeks. If it were me, I'd run one every 4 days even at that, 
but 
> > the 
> > > climate is dry here.
> > > 
> > > The next thing is make sure the humidity in the room NEVER, 
EVER 
> > drops 
> > > below 40%RH. 50%RH would be good, more than this is not needed. 
> Try 
> > to 
> > > keep the temperature between 65 degrees f and about 72 degrees. 
> The 
> > > printer doesn't seem to like over about 77 degrees, esp.
> > > 
> > > You might get away with the CIS intact for about 3-4 weeks, but 
> for 
> > > three months-whew, you might want to plan on simply replacing 
the 
> > > carts at the tubing fittings and cutting your losses. Paul is 
> > correct 
> > > here, you will endanger your printer by trying to blow an old 
CIS 
> > into 
> > > it, believe me it's not worth it. So getting bottle caps with 
no 
> > > openings to seal the bottles is good, and wash out the tubing 
> lines 
> > > prior to leaving. I have never replaced CIS carts myself but I 
> know 
> > > what happens when you don't and try to install old ones.
> > > 
> > > I would also discard any ink that has been used in a CIS, 
> operating 
> > or 
> > > not, after about 8-12 months, but I'm probably in the minority 
> > > opionion here. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > A good alternative is to keep the CIS/ink in place and run the 
MIS 
> > > purge pattern on plain paper once or twice a day followed by a 
> > nozzle 
> > > check and no more than two-three cleanings. Put 40%ethanol to 
60% 
> > > distilled water on the parking pad if this doesn't revive it.
> > > 
> > >  I have to run this nonsense every  12 hours just to keep my 
> > > 1280/CFS/MIS VM ink clear. When the humidity drops below 40%RH 
or 
> > the 
> > > temp goes above about 74 the number of cleaning cycles with 
each 
> > > interval print rises from 0-1 to 2-3. Very dramatic. I have 
> > problems 
> > > with keeping temperature down in the studio when it is too cold 
> > > outside for air conditioner to turn on, and currently am 
working 
> on 
> > a 
> > > ventilation system that will draw in cold air from outside in 
fall 

> > and 
> > > winter.
> > > Jim H.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
<orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> 
> Jim, I am not quite sure of the difference between a CIS and CFS, 
> Maybe you can help me with the difference
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Vinny
>
 
Vinny,

Mainly just made by two different sources with somewhat different 
features.

Most (used to be all) CIS that I know of are made by nomorecarts.com 
who used to sell directly from their website; now they only sell 
through distributers who name them things like "Niagra". The recent 
Niagra II system I think it is- I don't know if nomorecarts makes it 
or if it is a copy with improvements. If you go to the nomorecarts 
website you will see enough pictures to get an idea.
It is called the Continuous Inking System.

The CFS ( the Continuous Flow System) is made by MIS. I don't know of 
anyone else but MIS that sells them.

If you were to take a poll, most people would say they prefer the CIS. 
I posted a few opinions on the virtues of each a week or two back. 
I'll highlight a few here:

1) If you have a chipped printer (1280/1290/1270) you will find that 
the CIS has a special chip that always reads full- you don't have to 
reset it. It is expensive though, and for a time recently could not be 
bought seperately (see the We-Ink site to buy these seperately). It 
adds $90 US (for two chips) to the cost of the CIS. The CFS uses a 
chip which has to be reset with an approx $45 device- the f16 
resetter; the chips themselves ($5 each) can be DOA or can blow out 
when handling them or installing them (tip: install a CFS with a chip 
with power to printer off and unplugged and avoid static charge 
buildup by touching ground before picking one up).

2) the CFS is not as polished as the CIS, has less complete and 
updated instructions, and is more mess and effort to install.

Gee, so why even consider a CFS? Well...

3) The CFS is much less expensive, and all the parts- tubing, elbow 
joints, carts, bottle caps, adhesive to glue cart to elbows- can be 
bought seperately. You can buy it in pieces and make it yourself (save 
about $10 over assembled CFS). Or buy just the carts/tubing and 
replace your currrent CFS quite cheaply. So switching inks or renewing 
with fresh ink every 6 months if you think your old ink is bad is $$ 
feasible. It costs about $38 (+ ink cost)to do this- the same cost 
roughly of buying new carts and flushing tubing on a CIS. So it may be 
less work to replace a CFS because no tubing/elbow/flushing work is 
involved other then trimming to length- you get a new set to thread 
thru the bottle caps. And new tubing with no ink deposits to flush 
out.

4) The plastic arm that holds the tubing on the CIS and is velcrowed 
to the printer top can sag and give you a really bad day when the 
tubing crashes into the head. The tubing clamps that perform the same 
purpose on the CFS are not going anywhere, although on the 1280 you 
have to remove the cover, at least when printing.

5) A real big plus is MIS offers optional cart clamps that have been 
chewed out by them to allow clearance for tubing. The cart clamps are 
the hinged tops on the print head that push the non CIS/CFS carts down 
and lock them in place. You remove them to install a CIS or CFS. On 
the CFS, you can replace them with these modified from MIS for an 
extra $10 for the k and color carts both. They firmly lock down the 
carts and solve the problem that the CIS/CFS would otherwise have of 
riding up over time, off the nipple. This is a serious problem not 
only because it causes air to get into the head (bad, very bad), but 
because if it is a chipped printer, it can cause a red light to go on 
because the chip has ridden up a fraction above the mating connector.

I don't know if these cart clamps will work with a CIS; they are 
chewed out to accomodate a CFS. The CIS AFAIK still relies on felt 
pads to give friction to prevent riding up- not a perfect solution 
IMHO. I hear some people in the past have added tape or other things 
wrapped around the head to hold the CIS carts down. On my two 1160's 
with CIS units I found the riding up did occur but as long as I 
pressed down carts every so often routinely I was okay. I don't know 
how well the read only chips on an 1280 CIS would take a misalignment 
though.
Jim H.

Jim, THANKS SO MUCH for the detailed explaination. I just printed it 
out to keep as a referance. I did purchase a few months back the CIS 
from nomorecarts because I had heard about problems from the MIS CFS.

Thanks again
Vinny
htpp://www.wulfsden.com 

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "jim hayes" <jimhayes@j...> 
wrote:
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Vincent Orlando" 
> <orlandovl@h...> wrote:
> > 
> > Jim, I am not quite sure of the difference between a CIS and CFS, 
> > Maybe you can help me with the difference
> > Thanks in advance
> > 
> > Vinny
> >
>  
> Vinny,
> 
> Mainly just made by two different sources with somewhat different 
> features.
> 
> Most (used to be all) CIS that I know of are made by 
nomorecarts.com 
> who used to sell directly from their website; now they only sell 
> through distributers who name them things like "Niagra". The recent 
> Niagra II system I think it is- I don't know if nomorecarts makes 
it 
> or if it is a copy with improvements. If you go to the nomorecarts 
> website you will see enough pictures to get an idea.
> It is called the Continuous Inking System.
> 
> The CFS ( the Continuous Flow System) is made by MIS. I don't know 
of 
> anyone else but MIS that sells them.
> 
> If you were to take a poll, most people would say they prefer the 
CIS. 
> I posted a few opinions on the virtues of each a week or two back. 
> I'll highlight a few here:
> 
> 1) If you have a chipped printer (1280/1290/1270) you will find 
that 
> the CIS has a special chip that always reads full- you don't have 
to 
> reset it. It is expensive though, and for a time recently could not 
be 
> bought seperately (see the We-Ink site to buy these seperately). It 
> adds $90 US (for two chips) to the cost of the CIS. The CFS uses a 
> chip which has to be reset with an approx $45 device- the f16 
> resetter; the chips themselves ($5 each) can be DOA or can blow out 
> when handling them or installing them (tip: install a CFS with a 
chip 
> with power to printer off and unplugged and avoid static charge 
> buildup by touching ground before picking one up).
> 
> 2) the CFS is not as polished as the CIS, has less complete and 
> updated instructions, and is more mess and effort to install.
> 
> Gee, so why even consider a CFS? Well...
> 
> 3) The CFS is much less expensive, and all the parts- tubing, elbow 
> joints, carts, bottle caps, adhesive to glue cart to elbows- can be 
> bought seperately. You can buy it in pieces and make it yourself 
(save 
> about $10 over assembled CFS). Or buy just the carts/tubing and 
> replace your currrent CFS quite cheaply. So switching inks or 
renewing 
> with fresh ink every 6 months if you think your old ink is bad is 
$$ 
> feasible. It costs about $38 (+ ink cost)to do this- the same cost 
> roughly of buying new carts and flushing tubing on a CIS. So it may 
be 
> less work to replace a CFS because no tubing/elbow/flushing work is 
> involved other then trimming to length- you get a new set to thread 
> thru the bottle caps. And new tubing with no ink deposits to flush 
> out.
> 
> 4) The plastic arm that holds the tubing on the CIS and is 
velcrowed 
> to the printer top can sag and give you a really bad day when the 
> tubing crashes into the head. The tubing clamps that perform the 
same 
> purpose on the CFS are not going anywhere, although on the 1280 you 
> have to remove the cover, at least when printing.
> 
> 5) A real big plus is MIS offers optional cart clamps that have 
been 
> chewed out by them to allow clearance for tubing. The cart clamps 
are 
> the hinged tops on the print head that push the non CIS/CFS carts 
down 
> and lock them in place. You remove them to install a CIS or CFS. On 
> the CFS, you can replace them with these modified from MIS for an 
> extra $10 for the k and color carts both. They firmly lock down the 
> carts and solve the problem that the CIS/CFS would otherwise have 
of 
> riding up over time, off the nipple. This is a serious problem not 
> only because it causes air to get into the head (bad, very bad), 
but 
> because if it is a chipped printer, it can cause a red light to go 
on 
> because the chip has ridden up a fraction above the mating 
connector.
> 
> I don't know if these cart clamps will work with a CIS; they are 
> chewed out to accomodate a CFS. The CIS AFAIK still relies on felt 
> pads to give friction to prevent riding up- not a perfect solution 
> IMHO. I hear some people in the past have added tape or other 
things 
> wrapped around the head to hold the CIS carts down. On my two 
1160's 
> with CIS units I found the riding up did occur but as long as I 
> pressed down carts every so often routinely I was okay. I don't 
know 
> how well the read only chips on an 1280 CIS would take a 
misalignment 
> though.
> Jim H.