Digital BW, The Print

After lurking around here forever I am finally getting QTR to work and 
it is beautiful.

Unfortunately the soft proof (yes I found the right spot for it - 
thanks to those who responded) doesn't come close to the print. The 
soft proof is quite dark and contrasty - the print is light and airy ( 
a little too light) but so neutral. Soft proof shows up checked on the 
printer page. Printing on Epson Matte paper.

I have purchased some of the Arches Entrada double side to use for a 
portfolio and don't want to waste any until I get this figured out.

Do I need any other profile to match the Entrada?
I am just using the matte paper setting in the printer dialog box.

Thanks again,
Jerry

Jerry Hadam wrote:

> Soft proof shows up checked on the 
> printer page. Printing on Epson Matte paper.

On the "Print with Preview" page Proof should be unchecked and Document checked.

How are you soft proofing? View>Proof setup>Custom>Profile...correct?

John V

How did it go John? Did you have a chance to replace the head. Mine is stil sitting here like 
a big paper weight.

john

Jerry,

If your monitor is properly calibrated and you are using a gray gamma 
2.2 working space then you should have a fairly good match to the print 
when using the matching printing and softproof profiles.  Don't know 
what you mean by "soft proof shows up checked on printer page".  You 
shouldn't be trying to use the softproof profiles for printing.  In the 
Print with Preview dialog your Document source space button should be 
checked and showing Gray Gamma 2.2 and the Proof Setup button should be 
unchecked and showing the name of the softproof profile.  Print Space 
should be Same as Source.  If your softproof looks "dark and contrasty" 
then check the Proof Setup to make sure that the Preserve Color Numbers 
box and Use Black Point Compensation box are both checked.

Carl

On Tuesday, October 19, 2004, at 07:41  PM, Jerry Hadam wrote:

>
> After lurking around here forever I am finally getting QTR to work and
> it is beautiful.
>
> Unfortunately the soft proof (yes I found the right spot for it -
> thanks to those who responded) doesn't come close to the print. The
> soft proof is quite dark and contrasty - the print is light and airy (
> a little too light) but so neutral. Soft proof shows up checked on the
> printer page. Printing on Epson Matte paper.
>
> I have purchased some of the Arches Entrada double side to use for a
> portfolio and don't want to waste any until I get this figured out.
>
> Do I need any other profile to match the Entrada?
> I am just using the matte paper setting in the printer dialog box.
>
> Thanks again,
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
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In most cases it is a matter of the monitor not being correctly calibrated. If it is you 
shouldn't have an problem IF your profile is also correctly made. Which is a big if.

"john dean" wrote:

> How did it go John? Did you have a chance to replace the head.

Hi John D.

I just got in and winding down a little. The good news is the heads and dampers went in 
without a hitch in the Epson 7000. It's just a little nerve-wracking as I didn't want to 
damage anything while installing. Installing the tension springs was the most tedious as 
they are small and not much wiggle room. Total time to open, install and close, a little 
over an hour. A tip is to print out important pages from the manual so you don't have to 
run back and forth to read the PDF - like I did.

Nozzle Check looked sharp as a tack! A big difference from the original heads. But the 
forth ink had missing nozzles. I think it's just air in the head - I hope - so the printer will 
sit for a day or so before we do another nozzle check.

But the most draining part of the process - both ink wise and mentally/emotionally was 
trying to figure out how to set the printhead ID via the Head Rank Input menu. Man-Oh-
Man the manual is a little sketchy on the buttons to push. But I figured it out after a long 
while of just pushing buttons. 

I installed the dampers and heads with the inks still in the lines and there is a way to avoid 
the default of "Initial Fill" after entering the printhead ID. But the button sequence 
recommended did not work. So in the end we had to do another Initial Fill and that just 
about drained all the inks out of the carts. So my client has to order more inks before we 
can proceed. Another $260.00 without a print.

All in all installing the dampers and heads was fairly easy. The most difficult part was 
inputting the head info and trying to avoid the Initial Fill default.

Best,

John V.

Sorry, last  sentence should read:  If your softproof looks "dark and 
contrasty" then check the Proof Setup to make sure that the Preserve 
Color Numbers box is checked.  Black point compensation doesn't apply 
here.

On Tuesday, October 19, 2004, at 08:59  PM, Carl Schofield wrote:

>
> Jerry,
>
> If your monitor is properly calibrated and you are using a gray gamma
> 2.2 working space then you should have a fairly good match to the print
> when using the matching printing and softproof profiles.  Don't know
> what you mean by "soft proof shows up checked on printer page".  You
> shouldn't be trying to use the softproof profiles for printing.  In the
> Print with Preview dialog your Document source space button should be
> checked and showing Gray Gamma 2.2 and the Proof Setup button should be
> unchecked and showing the name of the softproof profile.  Print Space
> should be Same as Source.  If your softproof looks "dark and contrasty"
> then check the Proof Setup to make sure that the Preserve Color Numbers
> box and Use Black Point Compensation box are both checked.
>
> Carl


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---John,

I'm thrilled to hear that these parts fit and that the mechanical part of it is reasonable. 

I'm sure you are in good shape. I though it would have taken you all day. You can't go 
through all that procedure and have all perfect nozzles the first hour. Yea, you could very 
well have an air bubble. That makes total sense.

Thank you so much for that valueable information. I too am very concerned about not 
wasting any more ink than is necessary. I have already almost used half of my carts which 
cost ME $70.00 each and I don't have any prints either. But you know once this is all over I 
am going to be SO glad I set this thing up. I've been doing these piezzotone prints on the 
small printers with QTR and there is nothing like it and I haven't even had these printers 
linearized yet.

So, I can avoid the  total refill if I take my time and do this correctly. Good.
I was thinking that I had to flush out all the lines and everything. Wondering what might be 
in those lines though. I was already starting to print out the procedure to lay in front of 
me. 

Thanks,

John

John:
Having done a few head replacements, the physical part of putting in the new head doesn't 
take over 15 minutes. But the really tough part is the new head alignment!

Recommend you have some narrow 8" wide roll paper or long scrap 8" wide by about 3 
feet. to print out alignment patterns.

The initial fill is vital to flush out the new heads and get a good head check.

Follow the sequence of alignment steps in the service menue. Don't stop in the middle!
Then don't forget to also do the regular alignment tests also. I had never had to do that 
one again, but the last head I replaced, it was all screwed up--printing offset images.

John Nollendorfs


"John Vitollo" <jvlist@c...> wrote:
> 
> "john dean" wrote:
> 
> > How did it go John? Did you have a chance to replace the head.
> 
> Hi John D.
> 
> I just got in and winding down a little. The good news is the heads and dampers went in 
> without a hitch in the Epson 7000. It's just a little nerve-wracking as I didn't want to 
> damage anything while installing. Installing the tension springs was the most tedious as 
> they are small and not much wiggle room. Total time to open, install and close, a little 
> over an hour. A tip is to print out important pages from the manual so you don't have to 
> run back and forth to read the PDF - like I did.
> 
> Nozzle Check looked sharp as a tack! A big difference from the original heads. But the 
> forth ink had missing nozzles. I think it's just air in the head - I hope - so the printer 
will 
> sit for a day or so before we do another nozzle check.
> 
> But the most draining part of the process - both ink wise and mentally/emotionally was 
> trying to figure out how to set the printhead ID via the Head Rank Input menu. Man-Oh-
> Man the manual is a little sketchy on the buttons to push. But I figured it out after a long 
> while of just pushing buttons. 
> 
> I installed the dampers and heads with the inks still in the lines and there is a way to 
avoid 
> the default of "Initial Fill" after entering the printhead ID. But the button sequence 
> recommended did not work. So in the end we had to do another Initial Fill and that just 
> about drained all the inks out of the carts. So my client has to order more inks before 
we 

> can proceed. Another $260.00 without a print.
> 
> All in all installing the dampers and heads was fairly easy. The most difficult part was 
> inputting the head info and trying to avoid the Initial Fill default.
> 
> Best,
> 
> John V.

John Nollendorfs wrote:
> Recommend you have some narrow 8" wide roll paper or long scrap 8" wide by about 3 
> feet. to print out alignment patterns.
> 
> The initial fill is vital to flush out the new heads and get a good head check.
> 
> Follow the sequence of alignment steps in the service menue. Don't stop in the middle!
> Then don't forget to also do the regular alignment tests also. I had never had to do that 
> one again, but the last head I replaced, it was all screwed up--printing offset images.

Hi John N,

Thanks...

I have to check the manual as I thought the 7000 only had the regular alignment that uses 
the whole width and about six feet of paper. 

One thing that I did was mark the adjustment levers on the head. There are three 
adjustment levers - two on the bottom and one on the side. I marked each one with a dot 
from a sharpie to get back to the settings if they moved. Only the side adjustment lever 
moved and I'm glad I marked it. Just before I put the head cover back on I set the lever to 
the dot. I hoped it helped!

John V

Excellent information. Mark the heads or spend two days aligning them.


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "sinar001" <sinar1@b...> wrote:
> 
> John:
> Having done a few head replacements, the physical part of putting in the new head 
doesn't 
> take over 15 minutes. But the really tough part is the new head alignment!
> 
> Recommend you have some narrow 8" wide roll paper or long scrap 8" wide by about 3 
> feet. to print out alignment patterns.
> 
> The initial fill is vital to flush out the new heads and get a good head check.
> 
> Follow the sequence of alignment steps in the service menue. Don't stop in the middle!
> Then don't forget to also do the regular alignment tests also. I had never had to do that 
> one again, but the last head I replaced, it was all screwed up--printing offset images.
> 
> John Nollendorfs
> 
> 
> "John Vitollo" <jvlist@c...> wrote:
> > 
> > "john dean" wrote:
> > 
> > > How did it go John? Did you have a chance to replace the head.
> > 
> > Hi John D.
> > 
> > I just got in and winding down a little. The good news is the heads and dampers went 
in 
> > without a hitch in the Epson 7000. It's just a little nerve-wracking as I didn't want to 
> > damage anything while installing. Installing the tension springs was the most tedious 
as 
> > they are small and not much wiggle room. Total time to open, install and close, a little 
> > over an hour. A tip is to print out important pages from the manual so you don't have 
to 
> > run back and forth to read the PDF - like I did.
> > 
> > Nozzle Check looked sharp as a tack! A big difference from the original heads. But the 
> > forth ink had missing nozzles. I think it's just air in the head - I hope - so the printer 
> will 
> > sit for a day or so before we do another nozzle check.
> > 
> > But the most draining part of the process - both ink wise and mentally/emotionally 
was 
> > trying to figure out how to set the printhead ID via the Head Rank Input menu. Man-
Oh-
> > Man the manual is a little sketchy on the buttons to push. But I figured it out after a 
long 
> > while of just pushing buttons. 
> > 
> > I installed the dampers and heads with the inks still in the lines and there is a way to 
> avoid 
> > the default of "Initial Fill" after entering the printhead ID. But the button sequence 
> > recommended did not work. So in the end we had to do another Initial Fill and that 
just 

> > about drained all the inks out of the carts. So my client has to order more inks before 
> we 
> > can proceed. Another $260.00 without a print.
> > 
> > All in all installing the dampers and heads was fairly easy. The most difficult part was 
> > inputting the head info and trying to avoid the Initial Fill default.
> > 
> > Best,
> > 
> > John V.

Hey John, nice to see you here. You must be taking a break from all
the politics over "there".
Tyler

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "sinar001"
<sinar1@b...> wrote:
> 
> John:
> Having done a few head replacements, the physical part of putting in
the new head doesn't 
> take over 15 minutes. But the really tough part is the new head
alignment!
> 
> Recommend you have some narrow 8" wide roll paper or long scrap 8"
wide by about 3 
> feet. to print out alignment patterns.
> 
> The initial fill is vital to flush out the new heads and get a good
head check.
> 
> Follow the sequence of alignment steps in the service menue. Don't
stop in the middle!
> Then don't forget to also do the regular alignment tests also. I had
never had to do that 
> one again, but the last head I replaced, it was all screwed
up--printing offset images.
> 
> John Nollendorfs
> 
> 
> "John Vitollo" <jvlist@c...> wrote:
> > 
> > "john dean" wrote:
> > 
> > > How did it go John? Did you have a chance to replace the head.
> > 
> > Hi John D.
> > 
> > I just got in and winding down a little. The good news is the
heads and dampers went in 
> > without a hitch in the Epson 7000. It's just a little
nerve-wracking as I didn't want to 
> > damage anything while installing. Installing the tension springs
was the most tedious as 
> > they are small and not much wiggle room. Total time to open,
install and close, a little 
> > over an hour. A tip is to print out important pages from the
manual so you don't have to 
> > run back and forth to read the PDF - like I did.
> > 
> > Nozzle Check looked sharp as a tack! A big difference from the
original heads. But the 
> > forth ink had missing nozzles. I think it's just air in the head -
I hope - so the printer 
> will 
> > sit for a day or so before we do another nozzle check.
> > 
> > But the most draining part of the process - both ink wise and
mentally/emotionally was 
> > trying to figure out how to set the printhead ID via the Head Rank
Input menu. Man-Oh-
> > Man the manual is a little sketchy on the buttons to push. But I
figured it out after a long 
> > while of just pushing buttons. 
> > 
> > I installed the dampers and heads with the inks still in the lines
and there is a way to 
> avoid 
> > the default of "Initial Fill" after entering the printhead ID. But
the button sequence 
> > recommended did not work. So in the end we had to do another
Initial Fill and that just 
> > about drained all the inks out of the carts. So my client has to
order more inks before 
> we 
> > can proceed. Another $260.00 without a print.
> > 
> > All in all installing the dampers and heads was fairly easy. The
most difficult part was 

> > inputting the head info and trying to avoid the Initial Fill default.
> > 
> > Best,
> > 
> > John V.

As a bystander with a 7500 I'd like to know what happens if you have 
moved one or all of the levers on the head. I think I might have done 
so when I replaced  several of the dampers which had become clogged. 
What is the procedure for resetting them to the optimum positions. I 
have the repair manual for the printer. I'd apprecite a detailed 
answer on or off the list.

John H

"Mr_Misty_44" wrote:
> As a bystander with a 7500 I'd like to know what happens if you have 
> moved one or all of the levers on the head. 

I'm not sure. Before I touched the heads I marked the three levers on the 7000 head with a 
Sharpie. The two bottom levers didn't move, but the side one moved all the way to the top. 
So I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe other users can tell you where their levers were set.

John Vitollo wrote:
> 
> "Mr_Misty_44" wrote:
> 
>>As a bystander with a 7500 I'd like to know what happens if you have 
>>moved one or all of the levers on the head. 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure. Before I touched the heads I marked the three levers on the 7000 head with a 
> Sharpie. The two bottom levers didn't move, but the side one moved all the way to the top. 
> So I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe other users can tell you where their levers were set.

You don't need a hardware realignment on the 7000 like you need 
one on the 9000 ?  With the service manual at hand you  use the 
service mode alignment tests to set the height of the light ink 
head to the height of the dark inks head (that's the right 
lever's task) after that the slant of both heads is corrected 
with the front levers (first the left one, the right order of 
handling may be different but that's written in the SM).  I 
replaced the Phillips screws in the middle of the heads with 
Inbus (US term is different, hexagon hole in the middle) screws 
as you often have to loosen and fasten them in aligning and the 
Phillips screws require too much pressure on the head carriage to 
turn them. !!!! Metric thread however !!!!
After that you have the software alignment. So describing at 
which point the levers should be is in my opinion not done :-)
The heads don't shift easy with the levers (clumsy design, 
plastic isn't stiff enough for levers, heads stick to the plate 
they move on) so a small screw driver as a lever to get them in 
motion isn't a luxury.

9000 knowledge, never done a 7000.

Ernst

I'm getting pretty good prints with UT2 and EEM (on an Epson 1280) 
(using Epson driver/sliders, not custom curves); nice blacks and smooth 
tones. But the tones around K=70-80 tend to "run together"; anything 
with a bunch of detail in that range (say, wood or brick, etc) gets 
smoothed out in an unnatural-looking way. Is anyone else seeing this?

Harry