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2012-02-22 by Bill Maxwell
I have only used the technique once and it worked OK. I didn t notice any blurred edges although it wasn t a very complex pcb. Bill ... I use BullGuard
2012-02-22 by Jeff Heiss
DJ, I know you wrote your printer driver for running in Linux. Is it possible to port it to Windows someday? Jeff _____ From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2012-02-22 by Jeff Heiss
I think Harvey is saying expose, develop, and etch the top board first for the top layer. Then do the same for the second board for the bottom layer. Lastly
2012-02-22 by tda7000
... I didn t mention it before but I did a rudimentary test by covering the board with a credit card and exposing a little bit every minute for 7 minutes
2012-02-22 by tda7000
... Why half-thickness board? How do you get the board into a laminator with push-pins in it? I am not sure I understand how this would work, can you please
2012-02-22 by tda7000
... Of course! I had read about that online but must have forgotten about that idea in all of the excitement... But now I m wondering, does that actually work
2012-02-22 by DJ Delorie
In cases like this, you really should consider buying a transmission step wedge. I got a stouffer 21-step wedge for $7 plus s&h and it REALLY tells you how
2012-02-22 by Harvey White
... I figured that one out, or at least, got it very close to right. use half thickness board, prepare each side individually. Make sure that there are three
2012-02-22 by Bill Maxwell
It might be worth printing say two of film, fix them together to hopefully make the black traces and fills more dense, and exposing through that. Registration
2012-02-22 by tda7000
Recently I had my first try at a UV-exposed board (because I have nightmares from trying to align paper properly for a double-sided board with the laminator,
2012-02-21 by Harvey White
... Main problem is that the glass reduces UV, and the plastic doesn t. I went for a shorter exposure and more UV. I m also exposing from the top, not
2012-02-21 by Leon Heller
Does a vacuum frame really help. I get excellent results (down to 8/8) without one, just putting the board and transparency on the glass with a book on top.
2012-02-21 by Per Mattsson
I once did a larger vacuum plate out of 6mm high dense MDF thru which I made rows of very small holes. By larger I mean 600x 800 mm. The high dense MDF had a
2012-02-21 by Harvey White
... I made a crude but workable frame from MDF, the painted kind. Drilled holes in it, ran a shop vac to it, and used vinyl from a fabric store as the cover
2012-02-21 by DJ Delorie
Mine is a chunk of plywood with some gasket material in a square around the edge. Plate glass rests on the gasket, and a hole in the plywood connects to the
2012-02-21 by KeepIt SimpleStupid
If you can get some polyester translucent paper, you can use a drop of water. Works great. ... From: Jeff Heiss Subject: RE:
2012-02-21 by Jeff Heiss
I am considering making a vacuum frame to use for the UV exposure method. Has anyone made or own a vacuum frame that they can share their thoughts on? I am
2012-02-21 by storan4wd
Hi Terry, I have just ordered a metre of Dynamask
2012-02-21 by storan4wd
Hi Simon, Thanks for that eBay reference - I hadn t seen that particular seller; it s a lot more expensive but it looks very similar to the Mechanic brand that
2012-02-21 by Terry Jones
I had a cart especially made from a guy on ebay and it was made with micr toner well a mix and had a terrible time trying to fuse it and ended up not using it
2012-02-20 by leeleduc
Has anyone ever used a MICR (Magnetic Ink Character Recognition)toner cartridge? These are used for printing checks. A graphics art student told me that a firm
2012-02-20 by Simao Cardoso
... I know LPI soldermask said to be the world most used, and sold for nine times less than that, minimum order quantity 1Kg, alkaline carbonate developer like
2012-02-20 by Terry
True that it is a bit expensive on a per ounce basis, but with the volumes necessary for purchase for the real stuff it is not bad...and this is one of the
2012-02-20 by Simao Cardoso
... As a side note, did you ever consider that such cheap eBay stuff, sold from china, is not even similar to real soldermask? It must be repackaged stuff, the
2012-02-20 by kx4om
Eldon, those are some *very* good results, and I am one who had difficulty with one of the early Brother printers using Press and Peel Blue. Ted, KX4OM
2012-02-20 by DJ Delorie
... I use an Epson R280 (Claria Inks) with Jetstar and my own printing software, and I m able to span 8 steps on the 21 step gauge, which is pretty good (toner
2012-02-20 by storan4wd
Thank you psykhon (and Terry and Andrew)! With all of you saying the same thing I had another shot at drying before curing. I tried 100C (my oven won t go
2012-02-20 by Eldon Brown
All, Contrary to popular belief ( and because I did not know any better when I started ) I use a Brother H-5250 and H-5370 1200dpi printers with very good
2012-02-20 by Boman33
Hi Terry, I am interested to learn more about metal etching. When you say deep what is that in mm or inches? What etchant are you using for the brass? Spray
2012-02-20 by RL
Thank you all for the great tips and suggestions on the pinters. Hopefully by the end of the week I can try a couple layouts on a board. Mark
2012-02-20 by JezusJonz
... Hi Mark, I ve been using Pulsars TTF and Green film for about 2 years now. I using a Lexmark E234. When using it with my printer when I print my sample off
2012-02-19 by Kevin Impson
Hi, Been lurking and reading here is a link that I found which helped me with the Pulsar PCB system. http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=makepcbs
2012-02-19 by leeleduc
I m using a Samsung ML-2525. Works well, just have to make sure you have it set to the darkest settings. I ve dedicated this printer for PCB s in the lab. Have
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
... I d agree to that, but I m likely to have more jumpers than either of us care to think about. Mega256 and a VQFP 100 chip for video, or FPGA and the same.
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
... You expose the photosensitive boards with a mask , a positive, black where there is to be copper, kind of transparency. That s what the film is for.
2012-02-19 by Leon Heller
... The film is used to produce negative or positive transparencies. Suitable sensitised boards must be used with it, of course. You can either buy them
2012-02-19 by Leon Heller
... I can usually design boards so that very few jumpers are required. With double-sided boards soldering all the links through the vias is worse than a few
2012-02-19 by joe M
Hello, With the JetStar Premium film , I do not have to buy photosensitive boards? Can I make the photosensitive boards from normal boards using this? The
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
... I do things like LCD display drivers, microprocessor boards, stepper driver boards, sensor interface boards, etc. Not a lot of analog wiring, mostly
2012-02-19 by storan4wd
... Hi Andrew, That s exactly right, there is no drying step. I ve tried leaving it to air dry and cooking it up a bit in the toaster oven but it just stays
2012-02-19 by Leon Heller
... Nearly all mine are single-sided. ... As I ve said several times, I get excellent positive transparencies with a cheap HP 9540 inkjet printer and JetStar
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
... For the quantities of board I use, if I had access to good photosensitive board in the sizes I need, I d use it. That is, if it were cheap enough. I can
2012-02-19 by storan4wd
... Hi Mark, I am that someone! Just for interest, I tried using that Samsung ML-1860 laser to print a small piece of Pulsar paper stuck to a regular paper
2012-02-19 by Leon Heller
... All that is required is some developer (I use NaOH), in addition to the etchant. Hardly too many chemicals ! It takes me something like 20 minutes to make
2012-02-19 by Piers Goodhew
I can do 10/10 traces with an old HP 5mp, but I only do small boards that need very thorough checking prior to etching (and sometimes after) (and maybe 1/5
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 01:29:32 -0500, you wrote: On the 19th, replying to my own post to update the status. ... I did try the older paper. Oddly enough, and
2012-02-19 by Harvey White
... One reason why I have not tried CNC drilling and then TT transfer. When I do 0.5mm 100 lead VQFP packages and small vias, any misalignment, top and bottom,
2012-02-19 by Terry
Joe, I think your results are more the exception than the rule. I have been able to get down to 8mil traces with the Pulsar paper, and just as good with the
2012-02-18 by psykhon@yahoo.com
+1, try 70-75 celcius for 20 minutes, then expose, develop, wash and final cure at 120-150 celcius for 40-60 minutes. most uv mask works this way
2012-02-18 by Harvey White
... I use an HP 2200D, in single sided mode, direct feedthrough (no bends). Set the toner density at the highest possible (5). Still has problems with large