RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Diamond saw
2010-09-04 by Howard Chester
... Not a problem.I work with Diamond cutting and drilling products on an industrial scale - I m a electro mech fitter in controlled Demolition as my day job.
Messages
Browse messages
Page 180 of 707 · 35337 messages matched
Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-03 by Andrew
... Dust. Will it damage your components? Dunno, but I would think not unless it somehow causes a chip not to connect properly in a socket (e.g., if you pulled
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Diamond saw
2010-09-03 by Boman33
Thanks Howard for a detailed answer. The boards are built as an array on a Pick & Place machine and I want to cut them apart afterwards when building
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Diamond saw
2010-09-03 by Howard Chester
... The reason the saw is used with water is to stop the diamodiferous grit on the rim from being detached when hot. The grit is pressed into the blade rim
Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-03 by sailingto
Thank you for such a detailed report - I am using a shear type paper cutter now for FR4 which works pretty good for .032 , but .062 is harder. I ve been
Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by bebx2000
I bought my 4 QEP saw at Lowes about 6mo. ago. The price was $54 and I had a coupon for $10 off on a $50 or greater purchase. The Harbor Freight model looks
Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by sailingto
Is the QEP saw about the same as the HF saw? One better than other? With the QEP saw selling for $49 at Home Depot and comes with a 7 diamond blade, that
recommend me a printer
2010-09-02 by chcwatershed
i need to get strip under 10um and thin copper clad. Could someone recommend me a suitable printer?
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by Alessio Sangalli
... The guy responded to my inquiry about shipping costs: The shipping on a 4 blade 1.50 on a 6 blade 4.90 So it makes sense to just buy it directly :) bye
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-02 by Leslie Newell
Yes, silicone is quite porous. It will stop liquid but vapor penetrates it quite easily. Les
Re: Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-02 by gandolfreefer
The only caution I would give about CEM is consider your end-use environment: CEM, if memory serves, is more susceptible to wicking water over time,
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by Boman33
Are there any problems running the diamond saw dry? I am thinking about cutting apart finished assembled SMT boards. Any vibration problems damaging
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by Alessio Sangalli
... Thanks! I will order mine also. Are you in US? I could buy two and send you the second one by regular mail to save on shipping costs. In any case I will
Re: Diamond saw
2010-09-02 by bebx2000
Alessio, I have the QEP 4 diamond saw. It came with a blade that looks to be about 1.4 mm thick. This is ok for tile, but a bit thick for PCB work. I intend
Diamond saw
2010-09-01 by Alessio Sangalli
Ok I have enough of score and snap method (utility knife, glass cutter, the best was the pen with carbite tip but still required too much work) and the paper
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-01 by Slavko Kocjancic
... It s not so bad! I just leave 0.5mm biger plate and sand it down with sandpaper on flat surface.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-01 by rocko
Damn, I just bought a shear just for cutting PCB s. Thanks for the info.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-01 by Leon Heller
... I ve been using CEM-1 for years. It s a fibreglass-paper composite and is much easier to cut and drill than FR4. I buy mine (precoated) from Mega
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-01 by Cristian
... heat it before cutting, with a hot gun, to get clean edges Cristian [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-09-01 by Slavko Kocjancic
... Depend s what you want! Mechanicaly is not so good. If you use shear to cut it the edge is bad. On the other side the drill bit s last much longer. It s
Difference between FR-4 and CEM material??
2010-08-31 by acidblue
I found some copper clad boards on ebay that use CEM material instead of the FR-4 that I m familiar with. Has anyone used CEM before? Is it any different from
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Muratic/peroxide etch
2010-08-31 by Jim
DJ Thanks for the link and advice on the HCL ... It looks as if Adams etch times are 300 to 600 seconds using an optimal CuCl solution. My etch time was 900
Re: from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-31 by Bert
I ve done the photo-resist using positive boards and the results were excellent. A bit of work with exposing, developing, stopping, stripping, ect. But the
how i can to Plating a pcb
2010-08-31 by ralph
how i can to plating a pcb please thank you
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Muratic/peroxide etch
2010-08-31 by DJ Delorie
The emerald CuCl solution needs some TLC over time to remain fast . Adding HCl is one option. See:
Muratic/peroxide etch
2010-08-31 by Jim
I have made a etch agitator that is a mechanical resonant system. It is a 48 inch long, 2 inch wide and 3/4 inch thick wood board. On one end, it is driven by
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-31 by DJ Delorie
... I ve figured out how to laminate the dry film with nearly 100% success. I have two ways - wet or dry. Wet ... Similar to Adam s method, I put the film
Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do you?
2010-08-30 by morarcalin
Comet + Cerama Bryte pads work like a charm. Obviously I use it wet not dry.. and scrub pretty well the copper. I just damp the pad so the Comet turns in a
Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do you?
2010-08-30 by morarcalin
Sorry guys .. my bad for the POOL ETCHING SOLUTION and being slow to get back to you faster. The pool etching was just a supposedly funny way of saying
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-30 by Paul Mateer
I use their lightest weight glossy paper and have had great success with it. It s VERY close to a thin magazine paper ... bad results. -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Re: oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-30 by Chris
HI Charlie, I too have been at it for about 3 years. I cannot say with any certainty that any method is perfect. I like toner transfer and I like the photo
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by DJ Delorie
I ve used both, and switch back and forth occasionally. I use the special TT paper, so the cost-per-board is about the same (special paper costs about as much
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Bob Macklin
When I started my last batch I was using 12.5 mill traces. I was having problems with the 12.5 mil traces using the TT process. I changed to 20 mil traces and
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Slavko Kocjancic
... Photo VS Toner Transfer? That s the question... Do not use TT for lines under 8 mils. (I do my routing with at least 12 mils and go thinner just where need
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Eddie Stassen
The fact that you are unlikely to get consensus on any of your question should be an indication that there is a fairly wide tolerance involved here. Here is my
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Harvey White
... Photoresist, especially with pre coated boards, is more expensive, gives better results. Toner transfer is cheaper, and for 16 mill boards (and larger)
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Kerry Wentworth
If you use magazine paper, it is basically free to experiment. Magazine paper works well for me, 8 passes through the laminator. If an attempt fails, just
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by Stefan Trethan
Consensus is off topic on this list. ;-) If you only need single sided board with limited resolution requirements (say 8 mil or something) toner transfer is a
from Charlie re process you would bet your life on
2010-08-30 by synchronousmosfet@transformationaudio.com
Guys, thanks very much, I appreciate the feedback. I can definitely see some mistakes I ve been making with the transfer method...it really surprised me to
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-30 by Slavko Kocjancic
Hello... I make PCB boards for myself and had NO bad board s few year! (and make aprox one board per week) The board s are single sided (I abandon homemade
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by Harvey White
... If you have the capability, then arrange the drill press so that it works by moving the drill up into the board. Put a cheap closed circuit TV camera with
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by Bob Macklin
First I an not new to DIY PCB making. But I am relatively new the with the TT process. About 10 years ago I bought 2 packages of TT paper. Pre PULSAR. Two
Re: oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by fredbutz
I ve been working on videos, which spell it all out. I use the mechanical etch,through hole plate, dry film solder mask method. I m doing 8 mil traces with 6
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by Stefan Trethan
Well, I m not sure how to put this to you, but most of them actually work just fine. First you should define what quality of boards you require, then we can
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do you?
2010-08-29 by Tony Smith
... You need two cleaners to get things clean, mechanical before hand helps. You need a degreaser (simple green etc) to get rid of most junk, and something
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by Leon Heller
... I get perfect results every time with photo-etch using positive resist pre-coated boards, down to 8/8 mil. I use a cheap HP DeskJet printer and Mega
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by Harvey White
... I have methods that are very reliable for 16 mil boards, decent for 12 mill boards, and occasionally chancy for 10 mil boards and 0.5 mm chips. ... Then
oldie but newbie mystery of the universe
2010-08-29 by gandolfreefer
Hi Guys, I started trying to make my own PCB s three years ago, and joined this group a while back. I am wondering if any of you feel 100% confident about any
Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do you?
2010-08-28 by James
... Until I was given a fancy Unilam professional machine, I was getting good results on small PCBs with a $25 Scotch laminator. I believe these same innards
Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do you?
2010-08-28 by James
... I ve used a number of different things that have mostly all worked fine. I normally start by scrubbing the board with a fresh bit of green scrubby pad.