Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: laminator heat specs
2010-02-10 by DJ Delorie
... 260 F ? Or 360 F ?
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2010-02-10 by DJ Delorie
... 260 F ? Or 360 F ?
2010-02-10 by infositeus
Just a reminder. There is a long thread discussing laminator heat specs. It starts somewhere around message #7726 I think. Lyman
2010-02-10 by sailingto
As Roger says, looks nothing like your laminator Stefan, but exactly like the laminator sold by Pulsar. Using a digital thermometer to check the temperature of
2010-02-09 by Kjell M. Myksvoll
Hi, It should just hold on. But the card that it is to be attached to is standing vertically. But the smaller card is rather light and small, so I don t think
2010-02-09 by Leon Heller
... I use Blu-Tack for that sort of thing. It s not very pretty but it works very well. Leon
2010-02-09 by Stefan Trethan
Does it need to be very solid, or just hold on? A gentle and removable nice looking option is adhesive coated foam. You can get tape and pads, different
2010-02-09 by Kjell M. Myksvoll
Hi, Probably a somewhat silly question, but... I need to attach a small populated circuit board on top of a (much) larger, also populated, circuit board. Next
2010-02-09 by christiansen_alex@hotmail.com
hi Group some of you remember that I asked for a suplier of this thick copper layer. In a search for FR2 material, I came across a site where they sell this
2010-02-09 by Stefan Trethan
Actually, it takes a little time for the heat to propagate through the PCB. With a preheated plate I get very good results, no splattering or such. You could
2010-02-09 by DJ Delorie
... It certainly does when you have to control the temperature *change rate* as well as the hold temps. Proper reflow wants a specific temp vs time curve, not
2010-02-09 by James
... I picked up a Scotch TL901 laminator for under $30. It worked fine out of the box, although it definitely needed more than one pass. I opened it up and
2010-02-09 by James
... If you d rather save the effort for something more to your liking that s perfectly ok, however there s really no particular hurdle to overcome with what
2010-02-09 by James
... Thermal mass is no problem, it actually makes it easier, you just have to tune your temperature control to what you re controlling. With electronic control
2010-02-09 by James
... I heard the same thing. I have some of the old Staples paper I bought several years ago when I first tried this process. It works, but not any better than
2010-02-09 by twb8899
... I use negative acting dry film photo resist with excellent results. The boards I make for my products are fairly small with surface mount components. The
2010-02-08 by DJ Delorie
Also, in your design, include a 50 mil toner guard ring around the board, to hold the paper in place and protect the smaller traces of your design. Just some
2010-02-08 by DJ Delorie
... My guess is, not hot enough. My laminator defaulted to 320 F, but only after a fifteen minute warmup. With my hack, I can get it to 340-350 in five
2010-02-08 by Harvey White
... I have some ideas, yes. ... Demo cart is not different, AFAIK, just less toner, of course. I use a LaserJet 5, toner density 5 (whatever that means to
2010-02-08 by michael tenore
I clean my boards with a scotch brite pad. then I use 91% isopopyl alcohol to clean the residue.You have to clean the board untill there is no more residue on
2010-02-08 by Piers Goodhew
I d also suggest trying a few more passes of the laminator - 2 does sound a little lean. And I don t know what tarn-X is but I do agree you want the board a
2010-02-08 by Kerry Wentworth
I usually clean the board with steel wool, then alcohol. I d avoid TarnX. You don t want the copper to be too smooth. I normally make 4 or 6, or even 8
2010-02-08 by demers_barry
I have boards created using pre-sensitized positive developed and negative sensitized methods. Both offer very good resolution giving me great results using
2010-02-08 by jimofc300
Hi, Yesterday, I tried my first PCB. I used Pulsar s Fab-in-a-Box system with their GBC Personal laminator. After following Pulsar s directions, some
2010-02-08 by Roger Blair
No, nothing like it. They re the same form factor as the Personal Laminator (from Pulsar), except for a single, rather than two position switch on top, with
2010-02-08 by DJ Delorie
... Looks like this? http://www.delorie.com/electronics/laminator/ If to, it s got a 320 F cutoff in it, and despite what the board is on the way out, seems to
2010-02-08 by Roger Blair
I have the GBC Personal Laminator Model H-65 Product No 1701987 (from Pulsar) which indicates ~200F on my RS IR Thermometer by carefully aiming it through the
2010-02-08 by Kerry Wentworth
... I got a GBC Personal Laminator off of eBay for $25, including shipping. It was from MyBinding.com, and it is blue. Works great. There was some question
2010-02-08 by oliverstwists
I was wondering if anyone knows how hot the GBC 1701870 can get? I need a economical laminator that can do PCB s
2010-02-08 by Leon Heller
... As it contains HCl it will keep emitting fumes unless the container is well sealed. Leon
2010-02-08 by oliverstwists
Does anyone know if storing used HCl H202 in a garage is asking for trouble? How long is the reaction and does it still fume?
2010-02-08 by Jack@coats.org
Newell, I understand 35% H2O2 is the norm for food grade or use in hair salons for bleaching hair. You might go by your local neightborhood hair dresser to see
2010-02-07 by Newell S Jensen
*** None of us has military decontamination tents in our gardens to do the etching in if that s what you are asking ;-) If you are using the low strength H2O2
2010-02-07 by Leon Heller
... The H2O2 is used up. You need both. If you use concentrated HCl and H2O2 you can add more H2O2 to regenerate the solution, and you will gradually get more
2010-02-07 by Stefan Trethan
The H2O2 dissipates into thin air in storage, literally. The HCl stays of course, but is used up as copper is etched and CuCl is formed (the chlorine is taken
2010-02-07 by Brian Lalor
It doesn t? Crap. I thought this was a gateway to CuCl. What makes it lose effectiveness? -- Brian Lalor blalor@bravo5.org
2010-02-07 by oliverstwists
Thanks for the advice Stefan. Great tutorial on direct printing by the way. I am so tired of TT.
2010-02-07 by Stefan Trethan
If you etch enough boards and keep adding HCL and H2O2 you ll eventually get CuCl. At some point enough CuCl is present so you don t have to add new H2O2 for
2010-02-07 by Zoran A. Scepanovic
... Hash: SHA1 ... Nope - -10F is COLDER than -10C :D - -- Srdacan pozdrav, Zoran A. Scepanovic zastos@gmail.com www.zastos.com www.zastos.biz +381 63 609-993
2010-02-07 by oliverstwists
I hear you on reason for etching outside. When you say CuCl, is the copper chloride etchant the biproduct of the HCL H202 etchant? On an other note, I ve made
2010-02-07 by Stefan Trethan
None of us has military decontamination tents in our gardens to do the etching in if that s what you are asking ;-) If you are using the low strength H2O2 (3%)
2010-02-07 by Leon Heller
... HCl and H2O2 doesn t keep! Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2010-02-07 by awakephd
I share your concerns -- especially since I have a garage full of woodworking and machine tools that I do NOT want to get rusty. I bought a 5-gallon bucket
2010-02-07 by Brian Lalor
... I doubt I m a model of what anyone *should* be doing, but I m etching my boards with HCL and H2O2 in my basement. I m keeping about 6oz (~180ml) of the
2010-02-07 by oliverstwists
Thanks for you replies. I meant to include the units - I m operating in Celsius degrees. Could you provide me an idea of what reasonable concentrations of HCL
2010-02-07 by Brian Lalor
... Does it matter? Either way, it s freakin cold! -- Brian Lalor / blalor@bravo5.org You snooze, you lose Well I have snost and lost
2010-02-07 by Zoran A. Scepanovic
... Hash: SHA1 ... - -10 degrees of what kind? - -10 Celsius = 14 Farenheit - -10 Farenheit = -23.3 Celsius - -- Srdacan pozdrav, Zoran A. Scepanovic
2010-02-07 by Stefan Trethan
If you keep concentrations of HCl and H2O2 reasonable there will not be a problem. Keep your etchant covered when not in use, but not airtight to avoid
2010-02-07 by Stefan Trethan
Another option is to paint with solder paste (cheap plumbing variety is sufficient) and reflow, then wash away the rest. Or a fine brass brush might be used to
2010-02-07 by Craig VK2ZCM
Hi Guys My technique on small one off boards is to use a used piece desoldering wick and push it over the tracks with a soldering iron Craig ... From: awakephd
2010-02-07 by oliverstwists
Can anyone spot any hazards of etching at home in a garage? My choice of etchant would be the HCL H202. I am worried about possible vapors passing into the