Analogue-sequencer

Hi,

I've posted a new picture of the completed main board -
see http://www.colinfraser.com/p3/p3-inside.htm
and a provisional Bill of Materials (no typical prices / order 
numbers yet) -
see http://www.colinfraser.com/p3/bom.pdf

The key switches will need to have the right pin locations and 
sizes, so it may be better if I were to supply the switches I used 
with the board.
I'll post some better photos showing this type of switch, and canvas 
opinion then. It may be that I make the PCBs accept either the 
switches I used, or standard tact switches. I don't know if you can 
get nice key tops for tact switches. The two-part tops on the 
switches I use are very easy to label.

Cheers,
Colin f

>> I've posted a new picture of the completed main board -
>> see http://www.colinfraser.com/p3/p3-inside.htm
>
> looks nice...
> I guess you've taken MIDI off board to allow for mounting sockets
> anywhere?

Yes. With the sockets mounted on the board, there was no option to 
have them facing backward/forward in a rack mounted unit. I'll 
probably do an extra little board to take 3 PCB mounting DIN sockets, 
so there's a choice of whether to use chassis mounting sockets or not.

>> The key switches will need to have the right pin locations and
>> sizes, so it may be better if I were to supply the switches I used
>> with the board.
>
> Do you have a make/partnumber?
> this way I can check to see if the ones I plan to use will fit..

The switches I used are from Maplin.
Go to http://www.maplin.co.uk and look at part nos. DM76H (switch) and
DM77J (top). In 100's they cost 68p per step.

> I plan to use tact switchs (MEC 3FTL6's infact) datasheet here ;-

The test boards take only the Maplin switches.
But since tact switches are industry standard, multi-sourced, much 
more widely available, and cheaper, I'll make the PCB accept either 
the Maplin ones, or standard tacts.
Or if I'm happy myself with the label-able tact keytops, maybe I'll 
just make the boards tact only.

Cheers,
Colin f

>  I'm starting to layout my panel and I'd like to know the space 
between the
> pots/buttons/LEDs so I can get the holes in the right places :-)
> I'm guessing they will all be the same distance apart Horizontally, 
but
> what about vertically (for the LED/Switchs as they're on the same 
PCB)

Can't remember off the top of my head - either check out the .fpd 
file on my webpage, or I'll check myself when I get home.
The spacing may be slightly different for tact switches, but the 
centres will be the same.
Also, the mounting points at the mid-point of the switch/LED board 
will be rationalised, since I'm no longer using 2 separate boards - 
my home PCB etching equipment has a 8" size limit.

The horizontal spacing of the switches and pots is 19.05 mm, or 0.75".
The gap between the pot boards and the switch board can be varied to 
taste. Putting these boards as close as they can go is not very 
ergonomic. I think I've got them about 20mm apart vertically.

Colin f

Colin,

> I've posted a new picture of the completed main board -
> see http://www.colinfraser.com/p3/p3-inside.htm

looks nice...
I guess you've taken MIDI off board to allow for mounting sockets anywhere?

> and a provisional Bill of Materials (no typical prices / order
> numbers yet) -
> see http://www.colinfraser.com/p3/bom.pdf

got it, and I think I have most of the parts lieing around...

> The key switches will need to have the right pin locations and
> sizes, so it may be better if I were to supply the switches I used
> with the board.

Do you have a make/partnumber?
this way I can check to see if the ones I plan to use will fit..

> I'll post some better photos showing this type of switch, and canvas
> opinion then. It may be that I make the PCBs accept either the
> switches I used, or standard tact switches. I don't know if you can
> get nice key tops for tact switches. The two-part tops on the
> switches I use are very easy to label.

I plan to use tact switchs (MEC 3FTL6's infact) datasheet here ;-
http://www.4most.co.uk/pdf/rnd_pb.pdf
You can get these with LOADS of different keycaps, see here for a page of
different keycaps for the same switch base;-
http://www.4most.co.uk/swt_10.htm
you can even get square ones which you can put a label in.

Rapid sell the switch for £0.75 each and the caps for £0.16 available in
black, blue, grey and red

Paul

>
> Cheers,
> Colin f
>
>
>
>
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Colin,

 I'm starting to layout my panel and I'd like to know the space between the
pots/buttons/LEDs so I can get the holes in the right places :-)
I'm guessing they will all be the same distance apart Horizontally, but
what about vertically (for the LED/Switchs as they're on the same PCB)

  Paul

Colin,

> Can't remember off the top of my head - either check out the .fpd  file
> on my webpage, or I'll check myself when I get home.

yeah I just remebered that :-)
Got it thanks.

> The spacing may be slightly different for tact switches, but the
> centres will be the same.

Its the centers Im after...

> Also, the mounting points at the mid-point of the switch/LED board
> will be rationalised, since I'm no longer using 2 separate boards -  my
> home PCB etching equipment has a 8" size limit.

Ahh, ok, so in the middle of step 8 and 9...

> The horizontal spacing of the switches and pots is 19.05 mm, or 0.75".
> The gap between the pot boards and the switch board can be varied to
> taste. Putting these boards as close as they can go is not very
> ergonomic. I think I've got them about 20mm apart vertically.

Ive just taken the strip from your rack, and used that.
Replaced the rectangle whole with 16 round ones (for tact switchs)

I've also replaced the square 9 switchs with 9 round ones (tact again,
though the centers for these is a complete guess... (anyidea?)

once done, I'll put the fpd file on my webpage somewhere so anyone who is
thinking of using those cases can use the same layout if they want.

Paul