Dotcomformat

Shall we decide on a batch of three then or wait a few weeks more? Or better 
yet, if you
could do these in July Larry, just go ahead and do as many as you have 
orders for by then.

I guess we should agree on a design right? Can the one for MOTM be adopted 
or do we need
to redesign it totally? I have been unable to look at the picture available 
in the archive
since I lack a viewer for that type of file.
I'm willing to let that blinking LED go as well, how about the rest of you?

I'd like to get as many parts from the same place as possible since I live 
in Europe and
shipping several parcels feels more expensive than smart. So yeah, I'd be 
happy to buy
your knobs -pots and jacks I can get locally. That leaves me with two 
shipments, one from
you and one from Blacet.

I realise I'm being pushy about this but I mostly just want to get the 
discussion going -the
actual stuff I can wait for! :)

Thanks
Niklas

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--- Niklas Winde <Gordon_Stryph@Hotmail.com> wrote:
> Shall we decide on a batch of three then or wait a few weeks more?
> Or better yet, if you could do these in July Larry, just go ahead >
and do as many as you have  orders for by then.

I only run them all at opnce.  So, when I get ready to take orders, I
just open up for orders for 2 or 3 weeks and print whatever is
ordered.

> I guess we should agree on a design right? Can the one for MOTM be
> adopted or do we need to redesign it totally? 

We need to agree on a design.  I am attaching photos (sorry if this
offends anyone) of one in MOTM format.  That will give y9ou some
ideas.  However, remember that you have some differences.

The size of typical dot com pots and spacing only permits one row of
jacks up der the pots.  But, the wider panel provides for jacks up
one side of the panel like the wave-multiplier panel (also attached).

To stay with that typical dot com theme, I think I would put the ADSR
pots on the left side with jacks beside each pot for the voltage
control inputs, and put the other controls on the right, leaving a
row of 4 jacks below.

Larry


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on 6/9/05 9:43 PM, Larry Hendry at hendrysr@yahoo.com wrote:

> To stay with that typical dot com theme, I think I would put the ADSR
> pots on the left side with jacks beside each pot for the voltage
> control inputs, and put the other controls on the right, leaving a
> row of 4 jacks below.

I guess nobody remembers this:

http://synthbaron.serveftp.net/panel.jpg

on 6/9/05 9:26 PM, Larry Hendry at hendrysr@yahoo.com wrote:
> Get a T1 size (that matches the dot com size format for LEDs).

--- Jay <synthbaron@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
Larry means T1 3/4...

No, I meant a T1, 3mm LED.  Of course, I do not have any dot com
these days.  But, I thought the 3mm LEDs were normal (in holders).

> --- Jay <synthbaron@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> I guess nobody remembers this:
> http://synthbaron.serveftp.net/panel.jpg

I have to admit Jay, I completely forgot about that.  I think your
panel layout is nice.  I would still ditch the time base LED.  Mine
drives me crazy.

I modified my Blacet EG so that the output level control changes both
the + and - output.  So, I would also ditch te line from the output
pot tpo the jack.  But, that's just me.

Larry



		
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on 6/9/05 10:28 PM, Larry Hendry at hendrysr@yahoo.com wrote:
 
> No, I meant a T1, 3mm LED.  Of course, I do not have any dot com
> these days.  But, I thought the 3mm LEDs were normal (in holders).

Nope, it's a 5mm one. Mouser #351-5001. 3mm would be what the Blacet
normally has.

> I would still ditch the time base LED.  Mine drives me crazy.

That's why I replaced it with a switch so you could either display the Time
Base or Envelope Voltage. I guess you could drop the former all together,
but it's nice to know it's there.

--- Jay <synthbaron@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Nope, it's a 5mm one. Mouser #351-5001. 3mm would be what the
> Blacet normally has.

OK, apparently, the memory is the first thing to go. :-)
Blacet is not consistent.  He uses both sizes depending on the
application.

> That's why I replaced it with a switch so you could either display
> the Time Base or Envelope Voltage.

Yes, now I remember.  I think that is a good idea.  I like your panel
too.

BTW, for those interested in the modification to have both outputs
controlled by the level output, I am happy to share my modification. 
There are no extra circuit board parts required.  All that is needed
is to use a dual gang 50K pot instead of a single fpr R6, cut two
traces, and add the extra wires from the second gang of the pot pot
to the PCB.

It is not as simple as just scaling the inverted ouput.  You want RT2
to be able to scale the peak.  So, the second gang of the pot is used
to scale how much of the peak setting is used to bias the inverted
output (see the summing amplifier U11 pins 8, 9, and 10).

The modification is no more difficult that the conversion to dot com
format with the pots off the PCB.

Larry Hendry



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Has anyone used the trimmer to change the slope type of the decay from
linear to expo? I have not built my kit yet so I don't know if this would be
a good option to bring this pot to the front panel or not - just a thought. 

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: dotcomformat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:dotcomformat@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Larry Hendry
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 09:47 AM
To: dotcomformat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [dotcomformat] Re: Blacet EG, Arrick format

--- Jay <synthbaron@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Nope, it's a 5mm one. Mouser #351-5001. 3mm would be what the Blacet 
> normally has.

OK, apparently, the memory is the first thing to go. :-) Blacet is not
consistent.  He uses both sizes depending on the application.

> That's why I replaced it with a switch so you could either display the 
> Time Base or Envelope Voltage.

Yes, now I remember.  I think that is a good idea.  I like your panel too.

BTW, for those interested in the modification to have both outputs
controlled by the level output, I am happy to share my modification. 
There are no extra circuit board parts required.  All that is needed is to
use a dual gang 50K pot instead of a single fpr R6, cut two traces, and add
the extra wires from the second gang of the pot pot to the PCB.

It is not as simple as just scaling the inverted ouput.  You want RT2 to be
able to scale the peak.  So, the second gang of the pot is used to scale how
much of the peak setting is used to bias the inverted output (see the
summing amplifier U11 pins 8, 9, and 10).

The modification is no more difficult that the conversion to dot com format
with the pots off the PCB.

Larry Hendry



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