Digital BW, The Print

In a message dated 5/4/02 2:17:39 PM, AZinn@... writes:

>I need clarification regarding the maximum dpi of a file the Epson 
>printer uses. Is it correct to say that the printer only uses up to 
>240dpi files to output to 1400dpi, etc. ?  Or should that be that the 
>printer driver only uses 240dpi?  Is the printer capable of accepting 
>higher dpi files with a different driver?  I recall seeing some 
>discussion of this and may have it confused or am not stating it 
>clearly. 
>
>In the Pieziography manual it says: "Although images print with 
>clarity at 240dpi, there will be a remarkable increase in detail if 
>you can obtain your images at 720 dpi and higher."  I don't know if 
>that means the detail is gained at the larger print sizes with higher 
>rez scans which is the conventional way of expressing it or that the 
>piezo driver gets the printer to use more of the scanned dpi above 
>240 - which I doubt it does.

It indeed does. Even the standard Epson drivers support use one bit files up 
to 720 dpi. But when you start mixing areas of high contrast and those with 
many levels in 8 bit per channel files, the variable resolution of modern 
dithering algorithms makes it difficult to state just what resolution can be 
printed. The dpi in the Cone Driver is signnificantly higher than that of the 
Epson drivers (since it uses all heads for the same color channel, and 
eliminates any redundancy) allowing files of high resolution to produce even 
finer results. But that needs to be significant resolution, not empty noise, 
to make a difference.

C. David Tobie
Design Cooperative
CDTobie@...

This happens to me occasionally, daily I make sure to reseat the velcro'd plastic bar  that sits on top of printer and holds the tubing. Heat seems to be a factor. I think I will insert something under the plastic tubing holder to keep it from sagging. I have a 1160 so my set up may differ from yours.

HTH
Linda

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: borismg 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 5:46 PM
  Subject: [Digital BW] (unknown)


  I've been using a nomorecarts system on my 1270 for aout 6 months. 
  Lately the tubing has been catching under the print heads and the 
  printer stops printing. Perhaps the tubing has stretched out.  Has 
  anyone experienced this problem and how have you dealt with it?  
  Thanks in advance.  Mike



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You have too much slack in the tubing. Reposition the support arm further to
the right. Or the support arm might be coming loose and tipping down - you
need to re-attach it.   -BK


----- Original Message -----

From: "borismg" <mgkless@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 3:46 PM
Subject: [Digital BW] (unknown)


> I've been using a nomorecarts system on my 1270 for aout 6 months.
> Lately the tubing has been catching under the print heads and the
> printer stops printing. Perhaps the tubing has stretched out.  Has
> anyone experienced this problem and how have you dealt with it?
> Thanks in advance.  Mike

>>This happens to me occasionally, daily I make sure to reseat the velcro'd
plastic bar  that sits on top of printer and holds the tubing. Heat seems to
be a factor. I think I will insert something under the plastic tubing holder
to keep it from sagging.<<

Today, I had to reposition the "arm" on my 1160.  During initial
installation, I knew I would probably be sorry if I "followed the picture
directions" and attached the arm over the factory instructions (paper
sticker).  The instruction sticker finally pulled away today :(  I cut the
sticker so that I now have a good adhesion surface, cleaned all the old
adhesive off the arm and used the "heavy duty" version of the "Scotch
Mounting" pads/squares (found at my local hardware store) to remount the
arm. I have had great luck with this stuff in other applications where
Velcro has not had enough adhesive.  You might want to give this stuff a
try.

Doug

Yes, I have. Put a little block of cardboard under the end of the
plastic bar so the left hand side of the bar goes in an upward
direction. You'll have to tape it in place.

Jerry

Mine is about an inch square and 1/4" thick.





borismg wrote:

> 
> I've been using a nomorecarts system on my 1270 for aout 6 months.
> Lately the tubing has been catching under the print heads and the
> printer stops printing. Perhaps the tubing has stretched out.  Has
> anyone experienced this problem and how have you dealt with it?
> Thanks in advance.  Mike
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> Today, I had to reposition the "arm" on my 1160.  During initial
> installation, I knew I would probably be sorry if I "followed the picture
> directions" and attached the arm over the factory instructions (paper
> sticker).

There was no sticker where my arm attaches, and the velcro attached to the
printer is well-adhered. My problem is that if I place the lucite arm over
the base velcro so the two pieces of velcro exactly match, then the tubes
are too long. So to compromise, I moved the lucite piece to the right about
1/2". (It actually projects over the paper thickness lever.) This, in turn,
causes the lucite piece to gradually lose it's grip on the velcro and sag
down toward the print area. In the summer, the heat also causes the tubes to
stretch so the potential for the tube to get caught in the print mechanism
is high...and has happened a couple of (terrifying) times.
lj

I am lucky enough to have access to a laser engraving machine, so I cut some
custom acrylic pieces to fit over the tubing on the support arm, replacing
the rubber test-tube stopper supports (which I tossed). Now the weight of
the lid keeps the support arm in its place.

You might even try repositioning the stopper on top of the tubing - you
don't want the head to get jammmed, ever!
-BK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Jacobs" <lajacobs@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Tubing Arm Mounting


> > Today, I had to reposition the "arm" on my 1160.  During initial
> > installation, I knew I would probably be sorry if I "followed the
picture
> > directions" and attached the arm over the factory instructions (paper
> > sticker).
>
> There was no sticker where my arm attaches, and the velcro attached to the
> printer is well-adhered. My problem is that if I place the lucite arm over
> the base velcro so the two pieces of velcro exactly match, then the tubes
> are too long. So to compromise, I moved the lucite piece to the right
about
> 1/2". (It actually projects over the paper thickness lever.) This, in
turn,
> causes the lucite piece to gradually lose it's grip on the velcro and sag
> down toward the print area. In the summer, the heat also causes the tubes
to
> stretch so the potential for the tube to get caught in the print mechanism
> is high...and has happened a couple of (terrifying) times.
> lj
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
"flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
resources on the homepage.

>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Barry Kelsall" <
bktimes@y...> wrote:
> I am lucky enough to have access to a laser engraving machine, so I cut some
> custom acrylic pieces to fit over the tubing on the support arm, replacing
> the rubber test-tube stopper supports (which I tossed). Now the weight of
> the lid keeps the support arm in its place.
> 
> You might even try repositioning the stopper on top of the tubing - you
> don't want the head to get jammmed, ever!

This thread has been incentive for me to upgrade my droopy CIS on a 
1270. I had always taped the ink lines to the right side of the printer 
using clear 2" wide tape. This was never a sure solution but it's a 
good first line of defense.

I have repositioned the rubber stoppers. The one on the right side now 
sits on the feeder tubes above the right end of the acrylic arm. In 
this position the lid applies a bit of pressure to the stopper which 
helps to keep the arm up. The left side stopper, formerly attached to 
the narrow ledge where it was prone to fall into the printer innerds, I 
relocated toward the back ledge where it has a better footing. I cut it 
down and sloped the top so it squarely contacts the lid. Now when the 
lid is closed it makes contact with both stoppers at the same time so 
there's no unequal pressure on the lid.

Bob

Amazing!

Don't think I've ever received as few as 30 e mails a day, Mine usually
were about 200 +.  Then when the Leben list was dropped, There were
about 150 less per day!

You look at the subject line, and only read the ones that interest you.

Jerry

lady galadriel wrote:

> 
> WHOA!  I RECEIVED 30 EMAILS FROM A NUMBER OF YOU, AND MANY WERE MORE THAN ONCE.  I CAN\'T HANDLE THAT, AND DON'T HAVE TIME TO READ THEM ALL.  UNFORTUNATELY, I DELETED ALL OF THEM. AS THEY DID NOT PERTAIN PERSONALLY TO ME.
> 
> PLEASE, DEAR. WONDERFUL B+W PHOTOGRAPHERS.  ALLOW ME TO CONTACT YOU, IF YOU ARE OKAY WITH THAT, BUT 30 EMAILS IN ONE DAY IS TOO MUCH FOR ME.  I DON'T EVEN THINK I HAVE ANY PICTURES UP YET, IMAGINE THAT!
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> New! SBC Yahoo! Dial - 1st Month Free & unlimited access
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

roger wrote:

>At this point I would be wary of making any firm statements of 
permanence concerning ink jet produced prints beyond a simple 
statement that current data suggests that there will be no fading 
for at least XXX years under specified conditions. To some extent 
that is even true of traditional silver halide prints since their 
permanence is largely dependent upon proper archival processing.  I 
have a friend with a couple of prints by Atget that are brown and 
fading. He has been tempted to try and refix them but then decided 
to leave well enough alone. The only claim  I ever made for silver 
gelatin prints was they were archivally processed and mounted and 
matted on acid free board.<

even the Masters paintings and prints were affected by these same things
(see the entire email from roger)   ask any museum conservator!  so
roger's suggestion is very wise    there are some things that no matter
how hard we work or how loudly we scream, we have little final control
over     that is life and as i see it, the beauty of it   lessons   and
the "do-your-own-homework" messages     and have some joy as you do it
or why do it?    please don't bump me off   jwp/jno

> From: dan_honemann@... [mailto:dan_honemann@...]
>
> For today (12/17) ONLY, GretagMacbeth is selling their ProfileMaker
> Pro package for half price. Chromix sells it for $1399:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/zml5
>
> I'm bewildered by the dizzying array of products GretagMacbeth now
> offers for profiling. My question is simply this: is the ProfileMaker
> package at this price a better deal than their EyeOne Photo package
> at roughly the same price:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/zml0

The Eye-One Photo package is a combo of the Eye-One Pro spectro and the
Eye-One Match software for doing display calibration and RGB printer
calibration. This is simple no-knobs software that doesn't let you do any
profile editing at all. In that regard, the ProfilerPro/DoctorPro combo from
Colorvision is better software, but the Eye-One Pro spectro is a
spectacularly good piece of hardware, very easy to use.

The ProfileMaker package is their high-end software, including profile
editing, but it's _just_ the software, so it won't help you unless you
already have the Eye-One Pro, or some other supported spectro like a DTP-41.
I don't see the ColorMouse in the list, by the way. Also, the Eye-One
Display won't work because it's only for displays. If you do have a good
spectro, however, it's a good deal.

--

Ciao,               Paul D. DeRocco
Paul                mailto:pderocco@...

Hi Marzenna,

Over the years I've owned several of Fred's actions and, more recently, a
few of his new plugins. Until the Pixel Genuis folks developed Photokit
Sharpener, I swore by Fred's sharpening routines; specifically, 10D CSpro
and Intellisharpen. I have the Digital B&W Pro action, but have found other,
IMO better ways, of converting color to B&W. Overall, though, I find Fred's
plugins very useful and real time savers. The cost is starting to creep up
there, but I feel there still a fair deal. I remember years ago when Fred's
actions were, like, $2.50-5 each! Granted, the plugins are much more
sophisticated.

Hope this helps.

Alan Huntley

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mgolczewska" <mgolczewska@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:58 AM
Subject: [Digital BW] (unknown)


hello,
new to the group and curious if anybody of the members has experience
with fm software [http://www.fredmiranda.com] their photoshop
automation tools, especially these two:

- digital b&w pro
- b&w film emulation

since it's just a bunch o presets - are they worth the money?
how advanced are they? the descriptions and sample images don't really
say much to me.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "A. Huntley" 
<Alan.Huntley@c...> wrote:
> Hi Marzenna,
> 
> Over the years I've owned several of Fred's actions and, more 
recently, a
> few of his new plugins. Until the Pixel Genuis folks developed 
Photokit
> Sharpener, I swore by Fred's sharpening routines; specifically, 10D 
CSpro
> and Intellisharpen. I have the Digital B&W Pro action, but have 
found other,
> IMO better ways, of converting color to B&W. Overall, though, I 
find Fred's
> plugins very useful and real time savers. (snip)

I agree with Alan.  The Miranda actions are pretty good but I think 
there are others out there that will give you more options.  You can 
do as much or more using channels in Photoshop.  Image Factory does a 
good job too but it's a little expensive.

Alan mentioned sharpening with Photokit and Miranda and both are real 
nice but there's a new version of Qimage out now that has a 
sharpening feature that I might like better.  I still need to play 
around with it though.

Tom

Hello Alan,

thank You very much for replying!

If you have found a better way to convert color to B&W please do share
it with us! I have found a way myself which is best I think to gain
maximmum quality and control in the acquiring process with Photoshop.
I use three separate RGB channels als grayscale source film from
digital material - and the four CMYK channels from professional scans.

But maybe your acquiring method is even more sophisticated?

Sincerely,
Marzenna.


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "A. Huntley"
<Alan.Huntley@c...> wrote:
> Hi Marzenna,
> 
> Over the years I've owned several of Fred's actions and, more
recently, a
> few of his new plugins. Until the Pixel Genuis folks developed Photokit
> Sharpener, I swore by Fred's sharpening routines; specifically, 10D
CSpro
> and Intellisharpen. I have the Digital B&W Pro action, but have
found other,
> IMO better ways, of converting color to B&W. Overall, though, I find
Fred's
> plugins very useful and real time savers. The cost is starting to
creep up
> there, but I feel there still a fair deal. I remember years ago when
Fred's

> actions were, like, $2.50-5 each! Granted, the plugins are much more
> sophisticated.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Alan Huntley
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "mgolczewska" <mgolczewska@y...>
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:58 AM
> Subject: [Digital BW] (unknown)
> 
> 
> hello,
> new to the group and curious if anybody of the members has experience
> with fm software [http://www.fredmiranda.com] their photoshop
> automation tools, especially these two:
> 
> - digital b&w pro
> - b&w film emulation
> 
> since it's just a bunch o presets - are they worth the money?
> how advanced are they? the descriptions and sample images don't really
> say much to me.

I avoid FredMiranda.com and Fred's actions.

I own several. He makes a fine product. The problem is his site 
masquerades as an open site, and it's censored. Quite heavily, IMHO.

You'll have to look carefully to find it. Threads get closed. Then 
disappear. Messages get edited for content by moderators. Etc.

As an artist, I loathe censorship, so I don't want to subsidize it. 
I wish the site was open and tolerant. I'd return in a second, and 
I'd use some of Fred's actions.

Enough about buying Fred's actions . . .

I agree about Photokit Sharpener being an automated tool for what 
you can do with layers in PS. Being able to sharpen lighter and 
darker pixels is no trick. Just create two copy layers. Set the 
blending mode of one to lighten, the other to darken. Then use USM 
for both. Adjust the effect with layer opacity, blend if, etc.

I use FocalBlade for sharpening. It's about half the price of 
Photokit Sharpener and is more powerful. It's a PS add-in, not an 
automation tool for setting layer and USM settings.

Support is great! I just got notified the other by Harold that a new 
interim release was available. He's always improving the product. I 
get notices of interim releases every month or so.

You can control sharpening separately for edges and surfaces. If 
white or black halos are a problem, you can adjust them separately, 
too.

Great product!

Cheers,

Mitch

Glenn Mitchell wrote:

>I avoid FredMiranda.com and Fred's actions.
>
>I own several. He makes a fine product. The problem is his site 
>masquerades as an open site, and it's censored. Quite heavily, IMHO.
>
>You'll have to look carefully to find it. Threads get closed. Then 
>disappear. Messages get edited for content by moderators. Etc.
>
>As an artist, I loathe censorship, so I don't want to subsidize it. 
>I wish the site was open and tolerant. I'd return in a second, and 
>I'd use some of Fred's actions.
>  
>
Agreed.  Which is why I stopped buying Fred's products as well, AND have 
NEVER posted on the forums there..

 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
and  the Multiverse's largest Canon printer User  Community at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Canon-printers
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

Glenn Mitchell wrote:

>I use FocalBlade for sharpening. It's about half the price of 
>Photokit Sharpener and is more powerful. It's a PS add-in, not an 
>automation tool for setting layer and USM settings.
>
>Support is great! I just got notified the other by Harold that a new 
>interim release was available. He's always improving the product. I 
>get notices of interim releases every month or so.
>
>You can control sharpening separately for edges and surfaces. If 
>white or black halos are a problem, you can adjust them separately, 
>too.
>  
>
and Harald Heim is up there with Ed Hamrick of VueScan, in my book, for 
consistent support, updates, and personal accessibility..

 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
and  the Multiverse's largest Canon printer User  Community at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Canon-printers
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Editor P.O.V. 
Image Service" <editor@p...> wrote:
> Glenn Mitchell wrote:
> 
> >I use FocalBlade for sharpening. It's about half the price of 
> >Photokit Sharpener and is more powerful. It's a PS add-in, not an 
> >automation tool for setting layer and USM settings.
> >
> >Support is great! I just got notified the other by Harold that a 
new 
> >interim release was available. He's always improving the product. 
I 
> >get notices of interim releases every month or so.
> >
> >You can control sharpening separately for edges and surfaces. If 
> >white or black halos are a problem, you can adjust them 
separately, 
> >too.
> >  
> >
> and Harald Heim is up there with Ed Hamrick of VueScan, in my 
book, for 
> consistent support, updates, and personal accessibility..
> 
>  
> Keith Krebs
> 


Harold is great at customer support. It cannot be stressed enough!

Another who deserves accolades is Vlad at NeatImage. He provides 
great customer service: constant update notifications, very 
reasonable prices, free updates within versions, inexpensive updates 
to new versions, etc. Constsantly accessible on his support site. I 
went from Pro to Pro+ for $10, for example.

Chris Breeze at Breeze Systems also belongs in any pantheon of 
customer service mavens. Chris is constantly improving 
BreezeBrowser. Very reasonable price. Free upgrades for life (until 
recently, now for one year for those not "grandfathered"). Another 
one who is constantly accessible on his Yahoo! Groups site.

Cheers,

Mitch

Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
>> I wonder whether there's any inkjet (not an Epson, I bet) that
would
>> be willing to print in black-only ink with _empty_ color cartridges
>> -- just empty, dummy cartridges to fill the space -- or whether
>> every injet printer will refuse to go on if its color cartridges
>> are empty.
>
> The latter. But if you did so much black-only printing that the
> amount of
> color ink wasted in cleaning cycles became an economic issue, you
> could buy
> a chip resetter and reset the empty color cartridge's ink counter.
> You might
> eventually wind up with a dried out color printhead, but if the
> printer was
> reserved for B&W, that wouldn't be an issue.

For an Epson printer dedicated to black-only printing, you could use
a colour cartridge loaded with cleaning fluid. The printer would suck
the cleaning fluid through the heads and dump it in the waste pad, but
it would not print any cleaning fluid onto the paper. You'd save a
little
money (compared with using a normal colour cart) and keep all the
printer heads clear.

I don't think I would bother...

Peter Marquis-Kyle
www.marquis-kyle.com.au