Digital BW, The Print

Dear group,

Does anyone know if there are any published books aimed solely at 
quadtone printing? 

Just curious,

Don Bryant

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "donbga" 
<dsbryant@m...> wrote:
> Dear group,
> Does anyone know if there are any published books aimed 
solely at 
> quadtone printing? 

The Photoshop manual has several printed variations on 
tritones and quadtones.

Irving Penn's book "Passages" I believe was printed in quads, 
and even possibly with that stochastic screening process. That 
guy Richard Benson did the film on that book, and you can hardly 
see any dots whatsoever in the BW images; about as close to 
continuous tone as you'll ever get on an offset press.

I also bought a book that had quadtone samples in the graphic 
arts section of my local bookstore. I can't find it now; I guess I 
gave it to somebody. Go to Amazon and do some searches for 
graphic arts tech stuff.

,
> > Does anyone know if there are any published books aimed 
> solely at 
> > quadtone printing? 
> 
 Irving Penn's book "Passages" I believe was printed in quads, 
> and even possibly with that stochastic screening process. 

Passages was released in 1991. The book credits a 300 line screen
with a quad tone printing press set up. I would have guessed
stochastic myself. I believe the Ansel Adams 
posters were made with a variation on the gravure process. A laser
etched a stone to the various depths to hold the ink. Those posters
are dotless. I own some original Edward S. 
Curtiss prints from the text, and those are gravure prints made from
a copper etched plate. They have an almost dream like quality to
them, and of course, no dots. 

However, please do not confuse the above mentioned quad tone printing
with quad tone printing like we do with the Epson. Two totally
different types of printing for totally 
different appplications. Penns originals were mostly silver gelatin
and platinum palladium and these were either laid on a scanner or
shot on a camera.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "John Luke" 
<jjlphoto@y...> wrote:
> However, please do not confuse the above mentioned quad 
tone printing
> with quad tone printing like we do with the Epson.


I assumed that the original poster just wanted some more 
insight as to how to set the various curves. As someone who just 
finished a duotone job in B/W, I can personally attest that just 
duotone alone can drive you nuts, trying to get the curves set 
properly. There are, it seems, an infinite amount of possibilities 
of combinations, just in Duotone. I can't imagine how anyone 
could deal with setting curves for four different colors. That could 
be a career in itself.

MT, http://marktucker.com

The closest thing I found previously was what amounts to a book about 
how to use Photoshop to do prepress for grayscale images which 
however takes offset lithography for granted. It's Jim Rich's "The 
Photoshop Grayscale Book: An Illustrated Guide for Reproducing & 
Retouching"; First Edition, 2000 Rich & Associates, LLC, Chevy Chase, 
MD. It followed a book Jim Rich and Sandy Bozek wrote together, 
called "Photoshop in Black and White", and I think is contemporaneous 
with Photoshop 5.2. Not appropriate for Don but not a bad primer for 
the preliminaries or to get started with Photoshop more generally.

Sam McCandless          samcc@...

>Dear group,
>
>Does anyone know if there are any published books aimed solely at
>quadtone printing?
>
>Just curious,
>
>Don Bryant

I can't imagine how anyone 
> could deal with setting curves for four different colors. That could 
> be a career in itself.

A qaud tone printing job, even as early as 1991 was most likely created by a RIP. Whether it was an off the shelf program or a custom written one, we don't know. The printing 
quality looks fabulous in that book, obviously done by some sort of printing guru. Probably cost more than it was worth.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "John Luke" 
<jjlphoto@y...> wrote:
The printing 
> quality looks fabulous in that book, obviously done by some 
sort of printing guru. Probably cost more than it was worth.


Richard Benson is a celebrity within the fine-art-photo printing 
world. He did the film work on that book.

For 1991, it probably was a milestone. 

I like to hold the book up at various angles to the light, and see 
how the various hits of ink took to the paper. Some seem even a 
bit heavy handed; almost solarized in their attempts to hold 
shadow detail.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "John Luke" <jjlphoto@y...>
wrote:

>  Irving Penn's book "Passages" I believe was printed in quads, 
> > and even possibly with that stochastic screening process. 

The highlights in my copy are somewhat blown. Perhap the yellow had
some nozzle clogs.
Tyler

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Tyler Boley" <tyler@t...> 
wrote:
> The highlights in my copy are somewhat blown. Perhap the 
yellow had
> some nozzle clogs.
> Tyler


I know you're joking, but not really. I think that Benson guy is 
known for that -- he'll let the highlights go to pure paper white 
with absolutely no dot in the hightlight. I agree; it kinda bugged 
me at first, and still might actually, but I just respect it for what it 
is.

Actually, with duotones, the best education I've found is just to 
start with one of your own greyscale images that you know well, 
put on a good CD, and then just start experimenting with the 
canned Duotones, Tritones, and Quads that come in the PreSet 
Folder inside of PShop. 

I work with those, and then if I get confident, I'll then pick a 
different Pantone color from what is canned, but I'll pick one with 
roughly the same density of value. But still at that point, I try not to 
mess with the Curves that are preset.

All I know is that I felt way out in "Who Knows What This Will Look 
Like Land", once I started messing with the curves. I'm much 
more comfortable in RGB-Land. The duotone interface is not that 
intuitive to me.

MT

----- Original Message -----

From: "donbga" <dsbryant@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 6:40 AM
Subject: [Digital BW] Quadtone printing book


> Dear group,
>
> Does anyone know if there are any published books aimed solely at
> quadtone printing?
>
> Just curious,
>
> Don Bryant

Don,

I am going to hazard a guess that perhaps you were wondering about books on
the topic of inkjet printing with "quad" or grayscale ink sets. If that was
your question, I am not aware of any at the moment. No doubt we will see on
at some point but the technology is changing so rapidly anything written
today would be pretty out of date by the time it was published.

The process of using 4 different hued inks for reproducing photographs with
off-set lithography is commonly called "quadratone" printing.

Martin

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Martin Wesley" 
<mwesley250@e...> wrote:
> I am going to hazard a guess that perhaps you were 
wondering about books on
> the topic of inkjet printing with "quad" or grayscale ink sets.


I apologize if I misguided the poster. I assumed by his term 
"quadtone" that he was looking for the effects of using the 
Quadtone function within Photoshop.

If he meant "quadtone ink" printing, as in MIS quads, etc. I cannot 
imagine a book like that. All of this is far too new and 
experimental for anything to be published yet.

Sorry for wasting the bandwidth.

Recently I began resetting a 1280 using pig carts from MIS.  I am 
getting quite frustrated because I get about a 50% success rate with 
the procedure.  Until my old reliable 1270 finally bit the dust, I 
had a much higher rate of success...

Am I finally going to have to get a CIS to eliminate this problem?

Have just ordered a 7600 and that will be a Godsend with those big 
carts...however won't get it for several weeks.  I would still like 
to be able to use the 1280...maybe I will just have to switch  it 
back to Epson dye inks and use it as a color proofer on print 
jobs...at least their chips work all the time.

Any suggestions would be helpful.  I have tried pulling the plug 
while the head is on the left side and being loaded, just to avoid 
any shorting out of the chip...doesn't seem to make any difference 
one way or another.

feeling electronically challenged tonight,

Bill Agee
-- 

bill agee studio
capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca

http://www.redsilver.com

Martin,
> I am going to hazard a guess that perhaps you were wondering about 
books on
> the topic of inkjet printing with "quad" or grayscale ink sets. If 
that was
> your question, I am not aware of any at the moment. No doubt we 
will see on
> at some point but the technology is changing so rapidly anything 
written
> today would be pretty out of date by the time it was published.
> 
> The process of using 4 different hued inks for reproducing 
photographs with
> off-set lithography is commonly called "quadratone" printing.

I thought my question in the context of the mail list would be 
obvious. It never crossed my mind people would interpret this as a 
question about offset printing although we received some interesting 
replies.

The question was based on my thoughts about the need for a primer on 
quadtone inkjet printing. Something more than a glossary, a source 
that could be referred for answers about general or basic questions.

Paul mentioned that this list could be searched for answers and it 
can but not very efficiently IMO. Indeed that is what I usually try 
to do first. Peeling through old threads can be interesting but time 
consuming; I think you catch my drift.

Thanks for clarifying,

Don Bryant

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...> 
wrote:

> 
> Any suggestions would be helpful.  I have tried pulling the plug 
> while the head is on the left side and being loaded, just to avoid 
> any shorting out of the chip...doesn't seem to make any difference 
> one way or another.
> 
> feeling electronically challenged tonight,
> 
> Bill Agee
> -- 

The procedure that Bob Zeiss outlined to me was to first turn printer 
off with the off button. Unplug printer. Then push down on white post 
locking the head and slide it by hand to the left. Install cart. Slide 
by hand back to right. Plug in. Turn on.

I was afraid to mess with the white post at first so I did what you 
did...send the printhead over to left under power and simply unplug. I 
also blew out a set of chips or two this way. When I did it exactly as 
Bob had outlined it above, I can't say I had 100% sucess, but it 
seemed more reliable. 

The other thing I do is use a static wrist strap when I install chips. 
And Bob says only to use finger presure to press them on as the small 
board may otherwise be mechanically stressed. The holes on the newer 
chips are enlarged a bit so they fit on the pegs better than they did 
six months ago. If the chip is too loose however, it should either be 
glued on or not used. I have had problems with glue coming close to 
messing up the printer contacts, so I avoid it.

I use the QB7 chip resetter which allows me to reset the chip after I 
have pressed it on with my finger. Other resetters reset the chip 
before it is installed which I don't like. From the time I install the 
chip to when the cart is put in printer, I also try to keep the chip 
from getting close to sources of static charge like plastic bags, etc. 
Putting cart in a anti-static bag is a neat idea.

And some chips are just plain DOA, so I keep extras around and order 
free replacements when I find one.

Also, reading the instruction sheet for the f-16 chip resetter is 
instructional. Although it deals with another kind of resetter 
entirely, it talks about turning printer off and unplugging for one 
minute and trying a reset again. Apparently there is memory retension 
in the printer buffer which needs up to a minute to clear itself with 
power unplugged.

BTW it's not "shorting" of the chip AFAIK. It's the fact that the 
printer has a buffer memory of the last chip it had in it. When a new 
chip is in suddenly it doesn't match and the buffer on the printer and 
the buffer on the chip get confused...the chip memory permanently. The 
printer than has to have it's memory cleared by being turned off FIRST 
and then possibly unplugging for up to a minute. This does not seem to 
be as big a problem with an Epson cart, I can usually just pop them in 
under power. I've speculated on installing the chips off real Epson 
carts on the MIS carts and seeing how they work, but I have to use up 
a cart first<g>.

There is one situation where it is a physical electrical contact 
problem and not a buffer data problem...if cart is not firmly seated 
within 1/32 inch, it also causes a red light problem.
Jim H.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "donbga" 
<dsbryant@m...> wrote:
Peeling through old threads can be interesting but time 
> consuming; I think you catch my drift.



I agree that attempting to search the Archives can be frustrating, 
if you try to do it through the website.

This could support an argument that it's better to subscribe to 
this list either thru the Digest, or by individual emails, because 
you could THEN do context searches through your email 
program, which would be lightyears faster than the web.

Even then, I hate having my email volume so high, so I still read 
this list over the web. But when you want to do an archive search, 
you wish you'd had a copy of all the posts in Outlook Express 
instead.

Again, I apologize for drifting offtopic. I live more in the offset 
world than the quad-ink world.

MT, http://marktucker.com/

Bill; I assume you're resetting with the QB7? I've been using it on 
both a 1280 and a 780, with Epson chips on either MIS (for pigs) or 
Epson carts; I've found i repeatedly have the same trouble with the 
1280 carts, but never with the smaller 780 (T008) carts. I now remove 
the chips, put them on a spare T008 cart, reset, and replace on the 
T009, using a little blob of UHU-stick glue behind the chip to keep 
it on. Works every time.

Regards,

Steve

www.stevekphoto.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...> 
wrote:
> Recently I began resetting a 1280 using pig carts from MIS.  I am 
> getting quite frustrated because I get about a 50% success rate 
with 

> the procedure.  Until my old reliable 1270 finally bit the dust, I 
> had a much higher rate of success...
> 
> Am I finally going to have to get a CIS to eliminate this problem?
> 
> Have just ordered a 7600 and that will be a Godsend with those big 
> carts...however won't get it for several weeks.  I would still like 
> to be able to use the 1280...maybe I will just have to switch  it 
> back to Epson dye inks and use it as a color proofer on print 
> jobs...at least their chips work all the time.
> 
> Any suggestions would be helpful.  I have tried pulling the plug 
> while the head is on the left side and being loaded, just to avoid 
> any shorting out of the chip...doesn't seem to make any difference 
> one way or another.
> 
> feeling electronically challenged tonight,
> 
> Bill Agee
> -- 
> 
> bill agee studio
> capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca
> 
> http://www.redsilver.com

Jim,

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation.  I was not doing it the 
way you are suggesting and will give it a go.  I didn't know about 
the buffer memory problem....My only point of confusion is I don't 
see any white post to depress.  Do I have to remove the screws 
holding down the top cover to get to it?


Bill Agee



At 3:21 PM +0000 10/24/02, jim hayes wrote:
>--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>  Any suggestions would be helpful.  I have tried pulling the plug
>>  while the head is on the left side and being loaded, just to avoid
>>  any shorting out of the chip...doesn't seem to make any difference
>>  one way or another.
>>
>>  feeling electronically challenged tonight,
>>
>>  Bill Agee
>>  --
>
>The procedure that Bob Zeiss outlined to me was to first turn printer
>off with the off button. Unplug printer. Then push down on white post
>locking the head and slide it by hand to the left. Install cart. Slide
>by hand back to right. Plug in. Turn on.
>
>I was afraid to mess with the white post at first so I did what you
>did...send the printhead over to left under power and simply unplug. I
>also blew out a set of chips or two this way. When I did it exactly as
>Bob had outlined it above, I can't say I had 100% sucess, but it
>seemed more reliable.
>
>The other thing I do is use a static wrist strap when I install chips.
>And Bob says only to use finger presure to press them on as the small
>board may otherwise be mechanically stressed. The holes on the newer
>chips are enlarged a bit so they fit on the pegs better than they did
>six months ago. If the chip is too loose however, it should either be
>glued on or not used. I have had problems with glue coming close to
>messing up the printer contacts, so I avoid it.
>
>I use the QB7 chip resetter which allows me to reset the chip after I
>have pressed it on with my finger. Other resetters reset the chip
>before it is installed which I don't like. From the time I install the
>chip to when the cart is put in printer, I also try to keep the chip
>from getting close to sources of static charge like plastic bags, etc.
>Putting cart in a anti-static bag is a neat idea.
>
>And some chips are just plain DOA, so I keep extras around and order
>free replacements when I find one.
>
>Also, reading the instruction sheet for the f-16 chip resetter is
>instructional. Although it deals with another kind of resetter
>entirely, it talks about turning printer off and unplugging for one
>minute and trying a reset again. Apparently there is memory retension
>in the printer buffer which needs up to a minute to clear itself with
>power unplugged.
>
>BTW it's not "shorting" of the chip AFAIK. It's the fact that the
>printer has a buffer memory of the last chip it had in it. When a new
>chip is in suddenly it doesn't match and the buffer on the printer and
>the buffer on the chip get confused...the chip memory permanently. The
>printer than has to have it's memory cleared by being turned off FIRST
>and then possibly unplugging for up to a minute. This does not seem to
>be as big a problem with an Epson cart, I can usually just pop them in
>under power. I've speculated on installing the chips off real Epson
>carts on the MIS carts and seeing how they work, but I have to use up
>a cart first<g>.
>
>There is one situation where it is a physical electrical contact
>problem and not a buffer data problem...if cart is not firmly seated
>within 1/32 inch, it also causes a red light problem.
>Jim H.
>
>
>
>Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
>and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
>If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish 
>to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting 
>this same page.
>
>Please follow these basic guidelines:
>- Include your full name with your message.
>- Include the address of your website, if you have one.
>- As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages 
>to keep them short.
>- As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
>- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or 
>&amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
>- Complete your Yahoo profile.
>- Before posting a question, search the message archives and the 
>various resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

-- 

bill agee studio
capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca

http://www.redsilver.com

> Jim,
> 
> Thanks so much for the detailed explanation.  I was not doing it the 
> way you are suggesting and will give it a go.  I didn't know about 
> the buffer memory problem....My only point of confusion is I don't 
> see any white post to depress.  Do I have to remove the screws 
> holding down the top cover to get to it?
> 
> 
> Bill Agee

Bill,

With the printer off look to the left and you will see a white gear. Put your finger 
on that gear and look under the print head and move the gear back and forth. 
You'll see the white pin move up and down. With the pin down you can move the 
head any which way you like.

John V

Thankfully no. I can just reach in with my hand and free the head in 
about 5 seconds.

With the head returned to the right then turned off and unplugged, 
look at the bottom left side of printhead. The peg sticks up near the 
front left corner at bottom  of printhead as you face it. If you are 
dexterious press it down with your finger and grab the cart and move 
it left at the same time. If you have larger hands, use a screwdriver 
to press it down.

After you drag the head back right the peg will not pop up so you have 
to plug back in and turn on to get it to reappear.

BTW, I am not going to guarantee that this method works 100%, it was 
just the method descibed to me by Bob Zeiss at MIS. It did however get 
me out of trouble after I had done your method and blown the chips. I 
would also install new chips, don't trust the old ones.
Jim H.




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...> 
wrote:
> Jim,
> 
> Thanks so much for the detailed explanation.  I was not doing it the 
> way you are suggesting and will give it a go.  I didn't know about 
> the buffer memory problem....My only point of confusion is I don't 
> see any white post to depress.  Do I have to remove the screws 
> holding down the top cover to get to it?
> 
> 
> Bill Agee
> 
> 
> 
> At 3:21 PM +0000 10/24/02, jim hayes wrote:
> >--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>  Any suggestions would be helpful.  I have tried pulling the plug
> >>  while the head is on the left side and being loaded, just to 
avoid
> >>  any shorting out of the chip...doesn't seem to make any 
difference
> >>  one way or another.
> >>
> >>  feeling electronically challenged tonight,
> >>
> >>  Bill Agee
> >>  --
> >
> >The procedure that Bob Zeiss outlined to me was to first turn 
printer
> >off with the off button. Unplug printer. Then push down on white 
post
> >locking the head and slide it by hand to the left. Install cart. 
Slide
> >by hand back to right. Plug in. Turn on.
> >
> >I was afraid to mess with the white post at first so I did what you
> >did...send the printhead over to left under power and simply 
unplug. I
> >also blew out a set of chips or two this way. When I did it exactly 
as
> >Bob had outlined it above, I can't say I had 100% sucess, but it
> >seemed more reliable.
> >
> >The other thing I do is use a static wrist strap when I install 
chips.
> >And Bob says only to use finger presure to press them on as the 
small
> >board may otherwise be mechanically stressed. The holes on the 
newer
> >chips are enlarged a bit so they fit on the pegs better than they 
did
> >six months ago. If the chip is too loose however, it should either 
be
> >glued on or not used. I have had problems with glue coming close to
> >messing up the printer contacts, so I avoid it.
> >
> >I use the QB7 chip resetter which allows me to reset the chip after 
I
> >have pressed it on with my finger. Other resetters reset the chip
> >before it is installed which I don't like. From the time I install 
the
> >chip to when the cart is put in printer, I also try to keep the 
chip
> >from getting close to sources of static charge like plastic bags, 
etc.
> >Putting cart in a anti-static bag is a neat idea.
> >
> >And some chips are just plain DOA, so I keep extras around and 
order
> >free replacements when I find one.
> >
> >Also, reading the instruction sheet for the f-16 chip resetter is
> >instructional. Although it deals with another kind of resetter
> >entirely, it talks about turning printer off and unplugging for one
> >minute and trying a reset again. Apparently there is memory 
retension
> >in the printer buffer which needs up to a minute to clear itself 
with
> >power unplugged.
> >
> >BTW it's not "shorting" of the chip AFAIK. It's the fact that the
> >printer has a buffer memory of the last chip it had in it. When a 
new
> >chip is in suddenly it doesn't match and the buffer on the printer 
and
> >the buffer on the chip get confused...the chip memory permanently. 
The
> >printer than has to have it's memory cleared by being turned off 
FIRST
> >and then possibly unplugging for up to a minute. This does not seem 
to
> >be as big a problem with an Epson cart, I can usually just pop them 
in
> >under power. I've speculated on installing the chips off real Epson
> >carts on the MIS carts and seeing how they work, but I have to use 
up
> >a cart first<g>.
> >
> >There is one situation where it is a physical electrical contact
> >problem and not a buffer data problem...if cart is not firmly 
seated
> >within 1/32 inch, it also causes a red light problem.
> >Jim H.
> >
> >
> >
> >Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, 
Polls 
> >and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is 
at:
> >
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> >
> >If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you 
wish 
> >to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting 
> >this same page.
> >
> >Please follow these basic guidelines:
> >- Include your full name with your message.
> >- Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> >- As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages 
> >to keep them short.
> >- As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject 
header.
> >- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or 
> >&amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> >- Complete your Yahoo profile.
> >- Before posting a question, search the message archives and the 
> >various resources on the homepage.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> 
> -- 
> 
> bill agee studio
> capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca
> 
> http://www.redsilver.com

thanks to Jim Hayes, Steven Karafyllakis and John Vitollo for the 
tips on chip resetting.  I was able to use the white post depression 
trick along with the T-8 resetting with the QB7 chip re-setter and it 
worked like a champ.

Was even able to resuscitate a formerly refilled but unused cart that 
had failures with at least two chips...What a thrill to see the color 
bars up full again!

Bill
-- 

bill agee studio
capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca

http://www.redsilver.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Bill Agee <billagee@r...> 
wrote:
> thanks to Jim Hayes, Steven Karafyllakis and John Vitollo for the 
> tips on chip resetting.  I was able to use the white post depression 
> trick along with the T-8 resetting with the QB7 chip re-setter and 
it 
> worked like a champ.
> 
> Was even able to resuscitate a formerly refilled but unused cart 
that 
> had failures with at least two chips...What a thrill to see the 
color 
> bars up full again!
> 
> Bill
> -- 
> 
> bill agee studio
> capistrano beach, ca / laguna beach, ca

I know how you feel about those color bars...and not seeing a red 
light come on on printer!

Well I figure we all help where we seem to have picked up knowledge. 
For example I know a few things about having my printers clog up and 
studying why cuz it happens so much to me (Klog King<g>). But I'm not 
swift with things like doing curves, color management, etc.

I do have a question for Steven though about the trick with the QB7 
and the T008 cart... I never had that problem. I always was able to 
reset both the T007 and T009 carts for 1280 no prob AFAIK without 
having to hang at least the color cart T009's chip on a spare T008 
cart first.

Of course, I used the little clear acriyllic rectangle supplied with 
the QB7 resetter as a shim when resetting (only)the T009 color cart as 
called out in instructions, otherwise the contacts don't line up. Is 
this the problem with not being able to reset the chip on a T009 cart- 
you are not using the shim? Or does it truely not work for you, even 
using the shim under the QB7?

Oh and can you tell me a little more about UHU-stick glue? Never heard 
of it before...
Jim H.

 
> 
> http://www.redsilver.com

Jim;

I always use the acrylic block as well, but there seems to be a 
little wiggle room, side to side on a T009 cart that seems to cause 
mis-alignment just the same. At any rate, if I don't succesfully 
reset the chip first time on the T9 cart, I swap it over to the T8, 
and that always works. 
 UHU-stick  glue is a paste-type glue stick sold by the big office 
suply stores. Office Depot now has it under its own name. It is like 
paste wax in consistency, and easy to remove with a small blade when 
it's time to replace. Bets thing is you can just put a small blob 
under the chip, and you don't have to worry about glue leaking 
everywhere. Works great!

Steve 

www.stevekphoto.com

> 
> I do have a question for Steven though about the trick with the 
QB7 
> and the T008 cart... I never had that problem. I always was able 
to 
> reset both the T007 and T009 carts for 1280 no prob AFAIK without 
> having to hang at least the color cart T009's chip on a spare T008 
> cart first.
> 
> Of course, I used the little clear acriyllic rectangle supplied 
with 
> the QB7 resetter as a shim when resetting (only)the T009 color 
cart as 
> called out in instructions, otherwise the contacts don't line up. 
Is 
> this the problem with not being able to reset the chip on a T009 
cart- 
> you are not using the shim? Or does it truely not work for you, 
even 
> using the shim under the QB7?
> 
> Oh and can you tell me a little more about UHU-stick glue? Never 
heard 

> of it before...
> Jim H.
> 
>  
> > 
> > http://www.redsilver.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steven Karafyllakis" 
<stevek@e...> wrote:
> Jim;
> 
> I always use the acrylic block as well, but there seems to be a 
> little wiggle room, side to side on a T009 cart that seems to cause 
> mis-alignment just the same. At any rate, if I don't succesfully 
> reset the chip first time on the T9 cart, I swap it over to the T8, 
> and that always works.

Yes, I have that trouble too. I tried building a special shim that 
would take up the slack on both sides but it was more clumsy than just 
 training myself to mate the thing in the middle by sight. If I miss 
it I just would reset it all over agin. Using the T8 cart seems like a 
reasonable alternative.
 
>  UHU-stick  glue is a paste-type glue stick sold by the big office 
> suply stores. Office Depot now has it under its own name. It is like 
> paste wax in consistency, and easy to remove with a small blade when 
> it's time to replace. Bets thing is you can just put a small blob 
> under the chip, and you don't have to worry about glue leaking 
> everywhere. Works great!

I had a thought that it might be a glue-stick....like library paste in 
a stick like you can buy at Kinko's. This sounds like it a lot but I 
couldn't imagine a glue stick giving enough adhesion. But maybe it 
does. Thank you, what I'll do is try to find it under that brand name 
of UHU so I know I have the exact same stuff you do, in case I'm 
guessing wrong on Kinko's version.
Jim H.
Jim H.

> 
> Steve 
> 
> www.stevekphoto.com
> 
> > 
> > I do have a question for Steven though about the trick with the 
> QB7 
> > and the T008 cart... I never had that problem. I always was able 
> to 
> > reset both the T007 and T009 carts for 1280 no prob AFAIK without 
> > having to hang at least the color cart T009's chip on a spare T008 
> > cart first.
> > 
> > Of course, I used the little clear acriyllic rectangle supplied 
> with 
> > the QB7 resetter as a shim when resetting (only)the T009 color 
> cart as 
> > called out in instructions, otherwise the contacts don't line up. 
> Is 
> > this the problem with not being able to reset the chip on a T009 
> cart- 
> > you are not using the shim? Or does it truely not work for you, 
> even 
> > using the shim under the QB7?
> > 
> > Oh and can you tell me a little more about UHU-stick glue? Never 
> heard 
> > of it before...
> > Jim H.
> > 
> >  
> > > 
> > > http://www.redsilver.com