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Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by sdmey4@aol.com

In a message dated 10/23/2004 6:45:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
jvlist@... writes:

> When I replaced the dampers on my client's 7000 the first two snapped in 
> but the rest 
> didn't make a sound and I got a little concerned but tried to pull them out 
> and they were 
> tight so I think it's ok.
> 
> I'd just do the KK2 cleaning to fill the dampers, then do a nozzle chck.

>>>>>>>>>>

Wendel, John, Thanks! I'm going to close it up and see what happens.
Really glad you guys where on tonight ;0)
Steve M.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by sdmey4@aol.com

Well I powered everything on after a complete maintanance kit and damper 
replacement and was greeted with Service code  0001000c Pg origin sensor 
malfunction. 
Anybody got a clue what this is? I can't find anything about the pg sensor in 
service manual.
Steve M.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Which colorimeter?

2004-10-24 by Lew Schwartz

I'm interested in purchasing a colorimeter to calibrate my monitor. So far
I'm looking at Greytag and Spyder, but I like to know if there are other
considerations, alternatives and/or recommendations out there.
-Lew

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by Ernst Dinkla

sdmey4@... wrote:
> Well I powered everything on after a complete maintanance kit and damper 
> replacement and was greeted with Service code  0001000c Pg origin sensor 
> malfunction. 
> Anybody got a clue what this is? I can't find anything about the pg sensor in 
> service manual.
> Steve M.

In my 9000 service manual the PG sensor is described, what it 
does and where it is located.

Most likely dust in front of that paper sensor or ink on it. It 
measures paper thickness and more.

Ernst

Re: Which colorimeter?

2004-10-24 by Tyler Boley

I recently beta tested the new SpyderPro2 and really liked it. Monaco
Optix is getting good buzz, and the other worth mentioning is
basICColor Display.
I haven't tried the Monaco, but of the others including EyeOne, I
liked SpyderPro2 and BasICColor the best.
Tyler

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Lew Schwartz"
<lew@s...> wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing a colorimeter to calibrate my monitor.
So far
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I'm looking at Greytag and Spyder, but I like to know if there are other
> considerations, alternatives and/or recommendations out there.
> -Lew

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by sdmey4@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/2004 12:28:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
E.Dinkla@... writes:

> Most likely dust in front of that paper sensor or ink on it. It 
> measures paper thickness and more.
> 
> Ernst
> 
Well, I did locate the sensor and cleaned it but still have the error.
The gear with the sensor flag on it in not engaged with the gear underneath 
it?
Since I know the sensor is clean and it seems unlikely that it decided to 
fail during this procedure, it must have something to with the gears and the 
"home position"
I have the gear with sensor flag facing the sensor. Anybody have there 7000 
open ?
I'm not sure it the PG sensor gear(black) should be engaged with the white 
gear underneath it. Is it safe to power the printer on without the right cover 
on. I'm thinking it might help if I could see whats going on during power up/
Steve M.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by john dean

-Make sure those ink lines on the far right side, that go down into the overflow pads are in 
the correct position and not blocking the home position of the head. You could have 
knocked them out of the socket they sit in. This happened to me when I reached back in 
there and cleaned around the heads.

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-24 by sdmey4@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/2004 4:48:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
deanwork2003@... writes:

> -Make sure those ink lines on the far right side, that go down into the 
> overflow pads are in 
> the correct position and not blocking the home position of the head. You 
> could have 
> knocked them out of the socket they sit in. This happened to me when I 
> reached back in 
> there and cleaned around the heads.
> 
I did finally find some mal aligment and got the gears to engage, Yes you can 
power it up without the right side cover on. Anyway the service error 
0001000c Went away.
Now I have two dampers that will not fill, even after an init fill and kk2's.
I left the cover off the head and damper assembley so I can see whats going 
on. No ink in two of the dampers.
Steve M.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by john dean

Is there something that one can do to check if all the lines are clean and not blocked 
when doing a head replacement besides changing the dampers? I'm facing it all this week.

john
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I did finally find some mal aligment and got the gears to engage, Yes you can 
> power it up without the right side cover on. Anyway the service error 
> 0001000c Went away.
> Now I have two dampers that will not fill, even after an init fill and kk2's.
> I left the cover off the head and damper assembley so I can see whats going 
> on. No ink in two of the dampers.
> Steve M.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by richard_h95050

John,

You can pull fluid down through the feed tube with a large syringe. On
the 9000, I prefer to push fluid down the line (with a syringe) from
the cartridge end, but it's a bit easier to get to on that printer...

Richard

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john dean"
<deanwork2003@y...> wrote:
> 
>  Is there something that one can do to check if all the lines are
clean and not blocked 
> when doing a head replacement besides changing the dampers? I'm
facing it all this week.
> 
> john
> 
>  
> > I did finally find some mal aligment and got the gears to engage,
Yes you can 
> > power it up without the right side cover on. Anyway the service
error 
> > 0001000c Went away.
> > Now I have two dampers that will not fill, even after an init fill
and kk2's.
> > I left the cover off the head and damper assembley so I can see
whats going 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > on. No ink in two of the dampers.
> > Steve M.
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by sdmey4@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/2004 10:10:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
richardh@... writes:

> You can pull fluid down through the feed tube with a large syringe. On
> the 9000, I prefer to push fluid down the line (with a syringe) from
> the cartridge end, but it's a bit easier to get to on that printer...
> 
> Richard
> 
Great Richard, I got the dampers filled(syringe) on the 7000 and doing nozzel 
checks now.
This is my practice machine, my 9000 is next. Really learned alot taking 
apart the 7000, next time it will be a breeze. The 9000 is running so good I won't 
touch it for awhile ;0)
Steve M.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by john dean

Hey Steve,

John Vitolo and I are flushing the 7000's out and replacing the heads and dampers this 
week. That was very good to know  guys about cleaning the lines with a syringe . I didn't 
know about that. You just use the Media Street fluid, or some cleaning fluid like Windex. 
Would Windex hurt the lines?

If there is ANYTHING else that I need to know I would love to hear it.

My big issue tomorrow is ordering parts. I plan to order the 7500 dampers and the 7000 
heads for my 7000 converted to Piezzotone. I found my dampers all clogged.

A 7500 head wouldn't work on a 7000 would it because of the chip differences?

John Dean



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, sdmey4@a... wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> In a message dated 10/24/2004 10:10:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> richardh@j... writes:
> 
> > You can pull fluid down through the feed tube with a large syringe. On
> > the 9000, I prefer to push fluid down the line (with a syringe) from
> > the cartridge end, but it's a bit easier to get to on that printer...
> > 
> > Richard
> > 
> Great Richard, I got the dampers filled(syringe) on the 7000 and doing nozzel 
> checks now.
> This is my practice machine, my 9000 is next. Really learned alot taking 
> apart the 7000, next time it will be a breeze. The 9000 is running so good I won't 
> touch it for awhile ;0)
> Steve M.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by sdmey4@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/2004 10:33:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
deanwork2003@... writes:

> 
> Hey Steve,
> 
> John Vitolo and I are flushing the 7000's out and replacing the heads and 
> dampers this 
> week. That was very good to know  guys about cleaning the lines with a 
> syringe . I didn't 
> know about that. You just use the Media Street fluid, or some cleaning fluid 
> like Windex. 
> Would Windex hurt the lines?
> 
> If there is ANYTHING else that I need to know I would love to hear it.
> 
> My big issue tomorrow is ordering parts. I plan to order the 7500 dampers 
> and the 7000 
> heads for my 7000 converted to Piezzotone. I found my dampers all clogged.
> 
> A 7500 head wouldn't work on a 7000 would it because of the chip 
> differences?
> 
> John Dean
> 
Dean Here is what I can tell you. I put 7000 dampers in(didn't know 7500's 
were different). I used a syringe to draw ink into the dampers, there where two 
that didn't fill on there own. The only cleaning fluid I have used where the 
standard Piezo inkjetmall cleaner carts. Strange as it may seem my old dampers 
did not seem clogged at all! piezotones x 18months and MIS FS pigs for a year 
before that. I did not change the heads at this time they where performing 
fine. My job was all preventive maintenace and to learm something about the 
innerworkings. I have a 9000 also. These are Fabulous machines but its up to us to 
service them.
The only real hassle was some of those screws are hard to get at. If you can 
get it all back together without error codes great, you just have the 
alignment to deal with.
I wouldn't order 7500 heads as there maybe firmware issues when you fire it 
up. And we do know 7000 heads work just fine.
Steve M.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by Ernst Dinkla

sdmey4@... wrote:

> In a message dated 10/24/2004 10:33:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> deanwork2003@... writes:
> 
> 
>>Hey Steve,
>>
>>John Vitolo and I are flushing the 7000's out and replacing the heads and 
>>dampers this 
>>week. That was very good to know  guys about cleaning the lines with a 
>>syringe . I didn't 
>>know about that. You just use the Media Street fluid, or some cleaning fluid 
>>like Windex. 
>>Would Windex hurt the lines?
>>
>>If there is ANYTHING else that I need to know I would love to hear it.
>>
>>My big issue tomorrow is ordering parts. I plan to order the 7500 dampers 
>>and the 7000 
>>heads for my 7000 converted to Piezzotone. I found my dampers all clogged.
>>
>>A 7500 head wouldn't work on a 7000 would it because of the chip 
>>differences?
>>
>>John Dean
>>
> 
> Dean Here is what I can tell you. I put 7000 dampers in(didn't know 7500's 
> were different). I used a syringe to draw ink into the dampers, there where two 
> that didn't fill on there own. The only cleaning fluid I have used where the 
> standard Piezo inkjetmall cleaner carts. Strange as it may seem my old dampers 
> did not seem clogged at all! piezotones x 18months and MIS FS pigs for a year 
> before that. I did not change the heads at this time they where performing 
> fine. My job was all preventive maintenace and to learm something about the 
> innerworkings. I have a 9000 also. These are Fabulous machines but its up to us to 
> service them.
> The only real hassle was some of those screws are hard to get at. If you can 
> get it all back together without error codes great, you just have the 
> alignment to deal with.
> I wouldn't order 7500 heads as there maybe firmware issues when you fire it 
> up. And we do know 7000 heads work just fine.
> Steve M.

There's no real difference between 9000, 9500, 7000, 7500, 5000 
heads. The ordering numbers for the 9500 are different and they 
probably are different for the 7500. There's more to it as 
described here by K.T.Chan:

 >>The f055070 is 6 number and alphabat coded.
The f055030 is 5 number coded.
I use the 030 for 3000 and Mutoh.
The o7o, o8o o5o can be in the 5000, 7000, 9000, and 7500, 9500.
with the service program the 070 can be converted to 5 number 
code and be
used in 5000.

Price of 070 is 10 % higher in HK.

Regards

K.T.Chan <<

Red dots on dampers and heads indicate that they have had a 
better testing on flow and banding resp.

The only other problem seems to be that they deliver refurbished 
heads nowaday in the US. Check that you get new ones or get new 
ones that are meant for another printer but usable on the 7000. 
One buyer complained that the refurbished ones are just bad. I 
find it hard to believe that heads are refurbished but nevertheless.

Ernst

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by Ernst Dinkla

sdmey4@... wrote:

> In a message dated 10/24/2004 12:28:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> E.Dinkla@... writes:
> 
> 
>>Most likely dust in front of that paper sensor or ink on it. It 
>>measures paper thickness and more.
>>
>>Ernst
>>
> 
> Well, I did locate the sensor and cleaned it but still have the error.
> The gear with the sensor flag on it in not engaged with the gear underneath 
> it?
> Since I know the sensor is clean and it seems unlikely that it decided to 
> fail during this procedure, it must have something to with the gears and the 
> "home position"
> I have the gear with sensor flag facing the sensor. Anybody have there 7000 
> open ?
> I'm not sure it the PG sensor gear(black) should be engaged with the white 
> gear underneath it. Is it safe to power the printer on without the right cover 
> on. I'm thinking it might help if I could see whats going on during power up/
> Steve M.

Only experience with 9000's but:

You mean the gear at the right of the head capping position ?
If you turn them by hand while moving the head carriage to the 
right it will snap in easily.

The real horizontal position of the head carriage itself is 
measured on the transparent code strip above the head carriage, 
the home position is related to the spot where the coded strip 
starts at the right and the metal strip there ends. Sometimes the 
head carriage sensor will not cover the coded strip enough and 
errors are created. (9000's problem so far) Dust on the sensor or 
coded strip can give similar problems. But your PG error must be 
related to a paper sensor in my book :-)

I have had a kaput paper sensor on the head carriage (left side 
head carriage, above cutter), when the head carriage started to 
move it would reach the first paper edge and return immediately 
to its capping position. Replaced the sensor and it worked again. 
Can't recall the error code then but I guess I replaced the 
sensor based on the head's movement.

Ernst

Re: [Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by Ernst Dinkla

sdmey4@... wrote:

> In a message dated 10/24/2004 4:48:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> deanwork2003@... writes:
> 
> 
>>-Make sure those ink lines on the far right side, that go down into the 
>>overflow pads are in 
>>the correct position and not blocking the home position of the head. You 
>>could have 
>>knocked them out of the socket they sit in. This happened to me when I 
>>reached back in 
>>there and cleaned around the heads.
>>
> 
> I did finally find some mal aligment and got the gears to engage, Yes you can 
> power it up without the right side cover on. Anyway the service error 
> 0001000c Went away.
> Now I have two dampers that will not fill, even after an init fill and kk2's.
> I left the cover off the head and damper assembley so I can see whats going 
> on. No ink in two of the dampers.
> Steve M.

You can use a syringe on the dampers to pull ink in the dampers 
too but that doesn't fill the heads + the waste ink pumps.
Normally that wouldn't be a problem if the pumps are new and the 
head capping adjustment is done, the pumps + heads will pull in 
the ink without problems. If you changed the capping station but 
didn't do the head capping adjustment you will not pull the ink 
through with a cleaning or air stays in the damper etc.

There must be a description of a waste bottle addition to 7000's 
etc on the wide format lists archive. I've done that within two 
months after I got a 9000 5 years ago.  When the heads are on the 
capping station you can apply a vacuum on the waste bottle tubes 
and pull the inks through. There's some mixing of inks at the 
head as a result but printing a CcMmYK waste area will get them 
back to normal.

A nice trick to empty ink lines is to place the head carriage in 
the middle of the printer and insert a special cart in the cart 
slot that has a tube to the seal (bag removed) which is connected 
to a wine bottle where you have a vacuum pump on (or one of those 
special wine bottle caps where vacuum can be applied to preserve 
the wine). The ink in that line is completely removed especially 
when you let it suck for 10 minutes and move the head carriage a 
bit to change the ink tubes bending. Air gets in at the head 
nozzle of that line.  Don't do that when the head is at the 
capping position as it will suck all the other inks through the 
line you want to empty !!!!
The cart's tabs have to be cut to use the same one for all color 
slots.

Ernst

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by richard_h95050

Hi John and Steve,

When you're just testing to see if the lines between the carts and the
dampers are clear, you can use just about any non-caustic fluid from
distilled water to various (more expensive) "cleaning carts". At the
early stages, I tend to use the least expensive fluids and work
towards my ink of choice.

If you use Windex (and it does work fine) just make sure you use the
"original formula" with ammonia and work in a well ventilated area.
Distilled water also works well, and/or you can mix it with a very
mild dilution of ammonia if there are clogs to break -- but in any
event, work in an area with fresh air flow and don't let the system
sit too long without ink once you know the lines, dampers and heads
are clear. (Windex is also great for cleaning up ink splatters)

Ernst has also given you some very good advice, and I've learned a lot
from previous conversations with him. My suggestion about using the
syringe was in response to the question about checking the lines
between the carts and the dampers. Ernst has pointed out some good
techniques to take things to the next step to make sure your capping
stations, pumps and lines are all clear, primed, aligned and
functioning properly. If you know the lines are clear all the way to
to the heads, you can take the next steps as Ernst suggested. 

However, once you see the dampers are filling normally, you can also
just run through a cleaning cycle using your cleaning fluid and
observing its flow into the waste tank. Of course, you have to have
the covers removed to be able to observe this process, but if you're
that far into your printer it's not a bad idea to be looking at the
system "end to end".

The plans for the waste collection system that Ernst mentioned for the
9000 are definitely in the Epson Wide Format Files area, among other
places. They're a good modification for your system, especially if
you're doing a lot of printing. If you're uncomfortable with those
modifications, you can always just refill your waste tank with fresh 
absorbent material -- again, I've heard of people using everything
from "huggies" to feminine pads trimmed to fit. There's really no need
to spend the money Epson charges for their waste tanks.    

If you work with Compass Micro, they understand the Epson wide-format
machines fairly well. You can feel confident that the parts they sell
you will be "as advertised", and not refurbs when they say they're
new. From my perspective, I'd just stay with the parts designed for
your particular printer (dampers, etc.) -- but I know the part numbers
for the 5000 and 9000 heads are the same and there may be other
"cross-over" part numbers as well.

Jon Cone just posted his recommended procedure for priming and
flushing the system in the Piezography group, so that's definitely
worth a read. I've had pretty good luck without investing in expensive
flush carts, but that's one area I'm cautious about offering advice --
when you're doing the "brute force" cleaning and maintenance steps, I
don't think it matters much. But when you get ready to push your
expensive inks into those feed tubes, you're making a significant
investment. If Jon says to use his cleaning carts at that point, I'd
defer to his advice. 

I've done otherwise with both Piezotone and MIS inks, but I'd rather
not have anyone be mad at me if they have a problem when charging
their freshly repaired system with good, expensive inks ;>)

In terms of anything else you should know -- there's always something
more we learn as we go ;>) You might mark the position of the
adjustment levers on the heads before you pull the old ones so you
have a starting point after you reassemble them. But then again, after
you've done all those other cleaning, flushing and capping station
alignments, you may find out the heads are just fine!

Hope you enjoy the fruits of your efforts. It sure is nice to be able
to maintain these machines yourself, yes? 

Cheers!
Richard 



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john dean"
<deanwork2003@y...> wrote:
> 
> Hey Steve,
> 
> John Vitolo and I are flushing the 7000's out and replacing the
heads and dampers this 
> week. That was very good to know  guys about cleaning the lines with
a syringe . I didn't 
> know about that. You just use the Media Street fluid, or some
cleaning fluid like Windex. 
> Would Windex hurt the lines?
> 
> If there is ANYTHING else that I need to know I would love to hear
it.
> 
> My big issue tomorrow is ordering parts. I plan to order the 7500
dampers and the 7000 
> heads for my 7000 converted to Piezzotone. I found my dampers all
clogged.
> 
> A 7500 head wouldn't work on a 7000 would it because of the chip
differences?
> 
> John Dean
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, sdmey4@a...
wrote:
> > In a message dated 10/24/2004 10:10:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> > richardh@j... writes:
> > 
> > > You can pull fluid down through the feed tube with a large
syringe. On
> > > the 9000, I prefer to push fluid down the line (with a syringe)
from
> > > the cartridge end, but it's a bit easier to get to on that
printer...
> > > 
> > > Richard
> > > 
> > Great Richard, I got the dampers filled(syringe) on the 7000 and
doing nozzel 
> > checks now.
> > This is my practice machine, my 9000 is next. Really learned alot
taking 
> > apart the 7000, next time it will be a breeze. The 9000 is running
so good I won't 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > touch it for awhile ;0)
> > Steve M.
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Digital BW] Re: damper replacemnet 7000 ?

2004-10-25 by john dean

--Thanks Richard,

You guys have given me a lot of valueable info and I'm making a folder of it all to go with 
the manual. Since there are at least 3 of us out here working on this head replacement 
issue now we all can use the experience.

Yea, I'm not afraid of the inside of this printer anymore and though I'm not a mechanic I 
think I can handle it.

john

No Suction of Ink into new heads of 7000

2004-10-31 by john dean

Richard, Ernst, etc,

Thanks for the long detailed commentary on my printer changeover.
To make this one short, I answer, yes, I thoroughly cleaned the 
capping pads of the Lyson ink three times with Windex before even 
installing the cleaning carts and Piezzo inks. After the Piezzo inks 
clogged I flushed out the lines from head to carts thoroughly with 
Windex also. Now that the heads and dampers have been replaced, I can 
get no suction at all to the heads. When I did the initial fill with 
the Epson dye carts nothing is coming up in the lines at all. I also 
removed the heads and checked the ribbon connection again. The only 
reason there is ink in the dampers is because I brount it there with 
the syringe.Now I see with with the side and head covers off that 
there is no suction into the dampers either at all. 

What I am attempting to do today is to tackle the pump and overflow 
lines situation somehow. However,I don't understand how to do this at 
all. I did find Ernst's description below but do not understand how 
this works. I will try to evalute the condition of the pump if I can 
figure that out from the manual. The one thing is for sure, there is 
no ink moving out of the Epson carts to anywhere now and there is no 
ink moving into the overflow pads below. Nothing is happening with 
the initial fill or KK2.

John

Ernst's previous comments below. Is this what you were refering to:


----------------------------------------------------------------------
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> You can use a syringe on the dampers to pull ink in the dampers 
> too but that doesn't fill the heads + the waste ink pumps.
> Normally that wouldn't be a problem if the pumps are new and the 
> head capping adjustment is done, the pumps + heads will pull in 
> the ink without problems. If you changed the capping station but 
> didn't do the head capping adjustment you will not pull the ink 
> through with a cleaning or air stays in the damper etc.
> 
> There must be a description of a waste bottle addition to 7000's 
> etc on the wide format lists archive. I've done that within two 
> months after I got a 9000 5 years ago.  When the heads are on the 
> capping station you can apply a vacuum on the waste bottle tubes 
> and pull the inks through. There's some mixing of inks at the 
> head as a result but printing a CcMmYK waste area will get them 
> back to normal.
> 
> A nice trick to empty ink lines is to place the head carriage in 
> the middle of the printer and insert a special cart in the cart 
> slot that has a tube to the seal (bag removed) which is connected 
> to a wine bottle where you have a vacuum pump on (or one of those 
> special wine bottle caps where vacuum can be applied to preserve 
> the wine). The ink in that line is completely removed especially 
> when you let it suck for 10 minutes and move the head carriage a 
> bit to change the ink tubes bending. Air gets in at the head 
> nozzle of that line.  Don't do that when the head is at the 
> capping position as it will suck all the other inks through the 
> line you want to empty !!!!
> The cart's tabs have to be cut to use the same one for all color 
> slots.
> 
> Ernst

Re: No Suction of Ink into new heads of 7000

2004-10-31 by richard_h95050

Hi John,

OK -- short it is ;>) Didn't mean to write a book yesterday...

You're on track now! Without having suction to the heads we've got a 
major problem, even though it may not be 100% of the picture. We've 
got to get the system flowing end to end.

Reading Ernst's quote: "When the heads are on the capping station you 
can apply a vacuum on the waste bottle tubes and pull the inks 
through. There's some mixing of inks at the head as a result but 
printing a CcMmYK waste area will get them back to normal."

This is the "brute force" method of pulling fluid from the end of the 
waste tube where they hit the pads all the way down through the 
capping station. It may be necessary if things are gummed up in the 
waste lines and pump. You can do this (as Ernst suggested) through 
the heads themselves which will also tell you if you've got the 
required seal of the heads and capping station -- but since you've 
got Epson inks in the carts and who-knows-what in the waste lines 
and pumps, I'd be more inclined to do the first round of flushing by 
creating a vacuum in the waste tubes first while applying Windex or 
another liquid to the pads. Do you have a large syringe to do 
this "pulling" with or another means of creating a vacuum?

In the mean time, let me go into the Epson manual and find the 
section on "power-off pump testing" if I can, and a couple of other 
instruction pieces. If you don't already have the waste pads, pump 
and all the associatged plumbing exposed, why don't you get that part 
ready by pulling off the panels and I'll forward some additional 
information shortly...

Regards,
Richard


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john dean" 
<deanwork2003@y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Richard, Ernst, etc,
> 
> Thanks for the long detailed commentary on my printer changeover.
> To make this one short, I answer, yes, I thoroughly cleaned the 
> capping pads of the Lyson ink three times with Windex before even 
> installing the cleaning carts and Piezzo inks. After the Piezzo 
inks 
> clogged I flushed out the lines from head to carts thoroughly with 
> Windex also. Now that the heads and dampers have been replaced, I 
can 
> get no suction at all to the heads. When I did the initial fill 
with 
> the Epson dye carts nothing is coming up in the lines at all. I 
also 
> removed the heads and checked the ribbon connection again. The only 
> reason there is ink in the dampers is because I brount it there 
with 
> the syringe.Now I see with with the side and head covers off that 
> there is no suction into the dampers either at all. 
> 
> What I am attempting to do today is to tackle the pump and overflow 
> lines situation somehow. However,I don't understand how to do this 
at 
> all. I did find Ernst's description below but do not understand how 
> this works. I will try to evalute the condition of the pump if I 
can 
> figure that out from the manual. The one thing is for sure, there 
is 
> no ink moving out of the Epson carts to anywhere now and there is 
no 
> ink moving into the overflow pads below. Nothing is happening with 
> the initial fill or KK2.
> 
> John
> 
> Ernst's previous comments below. Is this what you were refering to:
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > You can use a syringe on the dampers to pull ink in the dampers 
> > too but that doesn't fill the heads + the waste ink pumps.
> > Normally that wouldn't be a problem if the pumps are new and the 
> > head capping adjustment is done, the pumps + heads will pull in 
> > the ink without problems. If you changed the capping station but 
> > didn't do the head capping adjustment you will not pull the ink 
> > through with a cleaning or air stays in the damper etc.
> > 
> > There must be a description of a waste bottle addition to 7000's 
> > etc on the wide format lists archive. I've done that within two 
> > months after I got a 9000 5 years ago.  When the heads are on the 
> > capping station you can apply a vacuum on the waste bottle tubes 
> > and pull the inks through. There's some mixing of inks at the 
> > head as a result but printing a CcMmYK waste area will get them 
> > back to normal.
> > 
> > A nice trick to empty ink lines is to place the head carriage in 
> > the middle of the printer and insert a special cart in the cart 
> > slot that has a tube to the seal (bag removed) which is connected 
> > to a wine bottle where you have a vacuum pump on (or one of those 
> > special wine bottle caps where vacuum can be applied to preserve 
> > the wine). The ink in that line is completely removed especially 
> > when you let it suck for 10 minutes and move the head carriage a 
> > bit to change the ink tubes bending. Air gets in at the head 
> > nozzle of that line.  Don't do that when the head is at the 
> > capping position as it will suck all the other inks through the 
> > line you want to empty !!!!
> > The cart's tabs have to be cut to use the same one for all color 
> > slots.
> > 
> > Ernst

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