Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Sponge etching with HCl and H2O2?
2011-11-27 by Roland Harriston
TDA: Actually, your local prices are not really that different from the price variations we have in the States. And, I guess, if one wanted to save a water and
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2011-11-27 by Roland Harriston
TDA: Actually, your local prices are not really that different from the price variations we have in the States. And, I guess, if one wanted to save a water and
2011-11-27 by leeleduc
31% HCL, also known as Muriatic Acid. A standard strength I buy at just about any hardware/building supply store. Also available at pool supply stores.
2011-11-27 by DaveC
What strength hcl are you using? The ratio is easily understood, but it all depends on the strengths. (I see you use 3 percent h2o2.) Thanks Dave -=-=-=-
2011-11-27 by Piers Goodhew
(CO3) 2 I m not a chemist, just trying to save some typing. PG Sent from my phone, anything lewd or incomprehensible is probably autocorrect and not my fault.
2011-11-27 by Piers Goodhew
Still, if something can be reused, no shame in that. I ve been to nz several times. It was great except all the cakes were unleavened due to the prohibitive
2011-11-27 by tda7000
No worries, I can understand your point of view. However having never actually purchased any I had no idea of the price, nor do I live in USA and in my country
2011-11-27 by Roland Harriston
Sometimes, I am truly amazed! A pound box of Arm and Hammer Baking soda costs about a dollar-fifty in any supermarket in the USA. Cheaper at WalMart. If you
2011-11-27 by tda7000
Thanks - I guess then that just a water rinse isn t good enough? Also, do you re-use the baking soda mixture or make a new lot each time?
2011-11-27 by leeleduc
One thing I should mention. I keep a bowl with about 1 quart of water and 1/4 cup of baking soda dissolved in it. When I m done, I toss the foam brush and any
2011-11-26 by tda7000
Sounds good, I think I will try that. Like the idea of a foam brush, should be easier to use than just a kitchen sponge and less messy.
2011-11-26 by tda7000
... Could be 15% HCl is too low, and maybe you should have a 1:2 ratio My HCl says 383g/litre - would that mean 38%?
2011-11-26 by leeleduc
I use this technique all the time. I can do a 4X6 inch board in about 2 minutes. I use 1 Part HCL and 2 Parts 3% H2O2. I make just enough etchant to cover the
2011-11-26 by Leon Heller
... It was a long time ago, I can t remember. IT would have been 30% HCl, because that is what I have available. It only took about 30 seconds, though. Leon --
2011-11-26 by Bob Butcher
I think it would work well. The idea behind a sponge or brush is to remove the thin layer of etched material and replace the solution at the surface with fresh
2011-11-26 by DaveC
... -=-=-=- I found it not so fast. I etched a 5 x 10 1-sided board (consisting of several duplicate small circuits) and it took almost an hour. I started
2011-11-26 by Leon Heller
... I used to use a soft brush, until the ferric chloride dissolved the metal holding the hairs. HCl/H2O2 is very fast anyway, but it could probably be useful
2011-11-26 by tda7000
I see some people get very fast etch times with a sponge and ferric chloride... But has anyone tried that method with the HCl and H2O2 solution, or the cupric
2011-11-25 by James Newton
Interesting idea... Perhaps a hotplate could be adapted?
2011-11-25 by DJ Delorie
Reminds me of an idea I want to try someday. Combine an aluminum plate, soldering iron inserts, and a vaccuum pump - put the pcb and TT on the plate, cover
2011-11-25 by DJ Delorie
... I was talking about silkscreen on the non-copper side of a single-sided board.
2011-11-23 by Mars Bonfire
What led me to use the oven/thermal slab /J-roller approach was the inconsistent results I got using an clothes iron. It would work but poor consistency. I
2011-11-22 by Mars Bonfire
James, I suspect your suggestion of putting paper on after removal from oven would work fine...I just haven t tried that variation. Your point about double
2011-11-22 by James Newton
Hi Mars, Neat description, thanks for sharing. I m curious why the paper needs to be in the oven. Wouldn t it be ok to heat up the board and plate past the
2011-11-22 by Hal Faulkner
I am certain that it will NOT work as an etching resist. However, Inko did make a photo sensitive stencil material. It was a colloidal (?) liquid that was
2011-11-22 by Donald H Locker
Their FAQ says it only works on absorbent natural materials (cotton, silk, rattan, wood, ...) so I doubt it would work on copper. It is a dye, after all, but
2011-11-21 by Peter Loron
Yes, geographically Russia considered a part of Europe. However the culture and mindset is different. Quite an interesting history for sure! -Pete
2011-11-21 by Stefan Trethan
Could work.... I only put the clear paint on afterwards to make some boards look nice. ST
2011-11-21 by David Mitchell
I don t understand.. wouldn t the entire paint layer resist the etch? I have done etchings using a laser to selectively burn off a spray paint layer, using the
2011-11-21 by DJ Delorie
... I wonder if a coat of flat white spray paint (before etching/trimming/etc so at least it s neat :) would give a suitable surface to adhere toner too. It
2011-11-21 by James Newton
http://www.gizmag.com/inkodye-photo-fabric-dye/20541 Interesting article/product. Wonder if it could be used as a photoresist? It can be used on materials
2011-11-21 by Stefan Trethan
Yes, that s just what happens. I used double-sided board and just etched the spare copper away (the surface that is left has a perfect micro-rough finish).
2011-11-21 by DJ Delorie
... Photo: http://www.delorie.com/pcb/transparencies/tt-on-fr4.html Also: the board I made (partially populated) is shown here:
2011-11-21 by DJ Delorie
... No, I just happened to have a big box of those sitting around from a long time ago so I used them. I was making a single-sided board and wanted (1) a
2011-11-21 by DJ Delorie
... Hmmm... I did the board I was running the tests for, so my incentive is gone, but that s something to try. Also: sanding with various grits to see if
2011-11-21 by Mars Bonfire
*Use kitchen oven - preheat to fuse temperature *Monitor temperature with a thermocouple *Tape Pulsar paper with toner image to PC board *Place PCB with Pulsar
2011-11-21 by Tom
I ve found the best way for me to power the high power LEDs (you know the ones that come on a star metal base) is with a LED Driver chip like the ZXLD1350 or
2011-11-20 by Piers Goodhew
If you were looking for further study suggestions, I would try first sanding the FR4 to a mirror finish and then scuffing it up: the weave of the
2011-11-20 by cunningfellow
DJ, Have you tried different brand transparencies? Before going back to photo etching 10 years ago I used to do toner transfer from transparencies. I started
2011-11-20 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
I just use a salt and vinegar mix on a 3M kitchen foam pad. Instant removal of oxide and a good surface to key onto. Malcolm I don t suffer from insanity I
2011-11-20 by DJ Delorie
... Yes, I mean use some sort of abrasive to scratch up the surface enough to provide mechanical grip. Green scrubbies are the usual tool, but a suitably
2011-11-20 by Jeff Heiss
DJ great results reporting. In the part Theory: The unevenness of the copper due to the underlying FR4 was causing uneven pressure and missed spots. Test: The
2011-11-20 by DJ Delorie
To learn about transparencies, temperatures, and techniques for Toner Transfer, I took the time to run a series of tests with my hacked laminator:
2011-11-20 by Derek
Interesting article AZdon. It talks about Cu6Sn5 being the start of the problem. I wonder if using a different nuclide would solve the issue. But then there is
2011-11-19 by mitch2054
Hi Derek, I ran some more searches to find a less-outdated link. Here s some notes: http://portal.groupkos.com/index.php?title=Tin_Whiskers Physics Today --
2011-11-19 by Anders Sponton
Middle part, north of Stockholm. Anders, Sweden ________________________________ Från: Boman33 Till: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2011-11-19 by tda7000
Mine isn t really a drill press. It s a Proxxon rotary tool (think dremel) in the stand which can be used as a press. Since the tool comes with grinding
2011-11-19 by Benjamin Blumer
I actually use both. The snips give great leverage for small boards. The shears give me better reach for wider boards. Sent from my iPad On 2011-11-18, at
2011-11-18 by Andrew Volk
Roland - Just to be clear, the Wiss model A9N is a shear and the model M3R is a ship. Correct? You are recommending the A9N. Regards, Andrew Volk _____ From:
2011-11-18 by Boman33
Anders & Peter, I suggest that you check your maps again. For example here: http://www.worldatlas.com/webimage/countrys/europe/eucaps.htm Russia, not Soviet
2011-11-18 by a_utrobin
Hi, Russel. Welcom to Russia! If you need an oficial private invitation, please write me personally. I live in St.Petersburg (Russia). And this IS a Europe!