Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Tin Whiskers
2011-11-18 by Derek
Unfortunately we need to follow the regulations to create the products. I read the article yesterday and was quite impressed - they still do not know the cause
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2011-11-18 by Derek
Unfortunately we need to follow the regulations to create the products. I read the article yesterday and was quite impressed - they still do not know the cause
2011-11-18 by Anders Sponton
Yepp, I know, it´s the WORLD map. (But the Americans produce a lot of good stuff, like Fenders, Gibsons, Rickenbackers and such). Anders, Sweden, lurker
2011-11-18 by Peter Loron
As Anders said, Russia is not Europe, but it is definitely worth visiting (been there 4 times). There are exemptions in the RoHS regs for aerospace, military
2011-11-18 by Erik Knise
... Alan, The biggest issue with the wet saw is that the fence doesn t go all the way down to the table. They are made for thicker objects like tile. I ve
2011-11-18 by Stefan Trethan
You know how it is on American maps, they go from Japan on the left to France on the right, Russia isn t even on them so how would they know where it is. ;-)
2011-11-18 by Roland Harriston
Also: I have other methods of cutting PCB material, including various power tools. But cutting epoxy-glass material creates a lot of toxic dust, so I don t do
2011-11-18 by Roland Harriston
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-11-18 by Leon Heller
... Farnell stocks it. I usually get mine from Mega Electronics, as the resist seems better. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2011-11-18 by Anders Sponton
Russia is definitively NOT Europe! But we got our own space scene... Anders, Sweden, lurker ________________________________ Från: Russell Shaw
2011-11-18 by alan00463
... Steve, thanks for posting this. Is there a way you can align the rip guide (fence) with the saw blade, using a straight edge? Is there a way to change
2011-11-18 by Russell Shaw
... I ve wanted to go to Russia and check out the space scene among other things like seeing what electronic components and surplus they have.
2011-11-18 by alan00463
Thank you for all the ideas. I guess I ought to have mentioned that I also do not have access to - a tile saw - a band saw, or - a drill press Too bad, a
2011-11-18 by Dylan Smith
... You can still buy leaded solder in Europe. Farnell sells big reels of the stuff. Europe s actually very nice. You should visit one day :-)
2011-11-18 by Russell Shaw
... I hand-solder controllers for farm machinery and the last thing anyone wants is a blown controller in the middle of harvesting a million dollar crop. The
2011-11-18 by Stefan Trethan
This is an old story, decades older than RoHS, some consultant probably just warmed it up to make a quick buck. The industry is well beyond this problem by
2011-11-18 by Piers Goodhew
Where do you get that from? (btw I did get some fr4 from eBay, a seller in Qingdong, and it s perfectly fine. 5 10*15 (cm) sheets less than 10 bucks. Took a
2011-11-18 by tda7000
Well, I already knew lead-free solder was stupid, but that article is a good read. The way I see it, lead-free = higher failure rate (and maybe not just from
2011-11-18 by Russell Shaw
The stupidy of European government knows no bounds. Understanding and mitigating tin whiskers
2011-11-18 by Steve
Alan, I have used a tile saw with a slicing blade for a couple of years. It does a good job. Be careful of your fingers. You can run it wet to keep the dust
2011-11-18 by Roland Harriston
I have been using aviation shears for a number of years. They are made by Wiss, which is a well-known maker of cutting tools. They are large, about 10 inches
2011-11-18 by Benjamin Blumer
Yeah! I wanted to add that aviation shears are meant to cut heavy sheet metal. 2oz copper and a bit of fiberglass should be no problem! Benjamin Blumer Sent
2011-11-17 by Andrew Leech
As much as I like the idea of the router bit in the drill press, depending on the quality of your drill press this could seriously wear the primary bearings on
2011-11-17 by tda7000
I used to use the score and snap method (IMO score and mutilate) with different results. If you score deep enough, the break is OK. However you must score
2011-11-17 by kabowers@NorthState.net
... Take a look at SKU# 66334 at dealextreme. Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
2011-11-17 by Leon Heller
... I use CEM-1 paper/fibre-glass laminate. It s *much* easier to cut and drill than FR4. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2011-11-17 by Tony Smith
There s about a billion variations of these. Re-post of the links: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334
2011-11-17 by Norm
... OOPS! The coupon didn t come thru. Anyway, it s available for $19.95 until the 23rd. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-11-17 by Norm
If you want to try one - - - product15 barcode ftr [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-11-17 by DJ Delorie
... For toner transfer, I still use 8 passes (rotate the pcb 90 degrees with each pass). I suspect you need to bring the pcb itself up to temperature also.
2011-11-17 by Bob Butcher
I have used a paper cutter from the office supply store. It doesn t do it a lot of good cutting the abrasive glass fiber board, but the cost is not too bad. I
2011-11-17 by Jeff Albrecht
Looking around on ebay I found this and a mind dazzling array of others temperature controllers and thermocouples http://bit.ly/skd09n They also had bi
2011-11-17 by jhalbrecht
That s pretty cool! With this modification can you make the transfer with one pass through the laminator? And if not I wonder if the feed speed could be
2011-11-17 by jhalbrecht
... I hope you ll report back to the list if you do get in touch with him. The GBC units may be easier to obtain in the USA than the Lowell laminator mentioned
2011-11-17 by DaveC
I have one of the original GB laminators mentioned in Ultrakeet s (PodeCoet?) hack article. I replaced the temp switch with one for 300-plus (330? -- I forget)
2011-11-17 by DaveC
This stuff is TOUGH! I scored with a utility knife, through the copper and well into the fiberglass. When I bent it over the edge of a table, it bowed a lot
2011-11-17 by Bob Butcher
I noticed these are 220 VAC controllers and I am not sure if they would work on 120 VAC. The two links to the digital controller do not work. Bob [Non-text
2011-11-17 by Tony Smith
... for ... in ... (will ... less ... Here ya go: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334. Or
2011-11-17 by Mike
Hello, Got back to the seeing what are the limitations of the inexpensive Harbor Freight Laminator for use with toner transfer. The temp. is not fixed nor can
2011-11-17 by Benjamin Blumer
One hack is to score it with a utility knife. Go over both front and back several times with a great deal of pressure. Then lay the score line over the edge
2011-11-17 by alan00463
I have no shear. I have no vise. What can I use to cut PCB material? I ll start with 6 X 12 X 0.062 SINGLE SIDED PC BOARD. Is there a hack for cutting
2011-11-16 by tda7000
Haven t tried that specific laminator but I do have and use the older model he wrote about in the previous article
2011-11-15 by DJ Delorie
I ve hacked my laminator to be MCU-controlled via a thermocouple, so I can set a specific temperature, see it on the lcd, and monitor the actual temperature as
2011-11-15 by leeleduc
I use both of these GBC pouch laminators right out of the box, no mods. They work fine. I use thin .031 inch board. GBC HeatSeal H212 9.5in Laminator GBC
2011-11-15 by JezusJonz
... Buy a laminator....make sure that it has two heat settings cause you ll want to use it on the higher of the two. Ive been using a GBC personal laminator
2011-11-15 by jhalbrecht
After my initial success with a toner transfer I would like to pursue using some semi automated process beyond the clothes iron. After reading a previous
2011-11-15 by tda7000
Could just be the paper you re using. I tried recently a board printed at the warehouse, on their slightly shiny paper (200gsm) and while it transferred
2011-11-15 by Piers Goodhew
This is just speculation with a sprinkling of theory, but it seems to me that the whole electrostatic attraction thing does better on edges and thin lines than
2011-11-15 by DJ Delorie
... Each toner recipe has a specific temperature at which it is plastic (and sticky) but not liquid. Ideally, you want to heat it to exactly that
2011-11-14 by Donald H Locker
Hmmm. Maybe I need to calibrate my temperature sensor. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it s an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html
2011-11-14 by DaveC
New to the group... ... I tend to use 345F or so for HP toners. Most Brother toners need 360-375F. [DJ Delorie] I wonder if those temps are absolute or if they