Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer temperature?
2011-11-14 by Piers Goodhew
I would also presume a roller process would be a lot less prone to getting bubbles under larger areas. PG Sent from my phone, anything lewd or incomprehensible
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer temperature?
2011-11-14 by DJ Delorie
... I tend to use 345F or so for HP toners. Most Brother toners need 360-375F.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer temperature?
2011-11-14 by Donald H Locker
Make a roller version then. The advantage of a roller over a flat plate is that the pressure is applied where needed, relatively uniformly, with relatively
Toner transfer temperature?
2011-11-14 by Stephen
Hi Guys, What temperature should I be trying to achieve to achieve a good transfer of toner to PCB? I have access to a good workshop (machine shop in the
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer success
2011-11-14 by Roland Harriston
I m beginning to believe more and more, that success is almost entirely a function of the nature of the toner. And, unless we actually own the copier and can
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer success
2011-11-14 by MIKE DURKIN
glad to hear that its working out!!! To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com From: jeffa@rodaw.com Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:51:36 +0000 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs]
First toner transfer success
2011-11-13 by jhalbrecht
After reading a few tutorials I spent a day trying to produce a toner transfer PCB. Not much success at all and a lot of frustration. Then I discovered
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-09 by DJ Delorie
... http://www.delorie.com/pcb/geda-windows/
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Digest Number 3548
2011-11-08 by Hugh Coleman
Hi I use the same method works great the gal at the copy place even made multiple images on one sheet for free... I have been useing a cheap IR temp sensor
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Digest Number 3548
2011-11-07 by Mike
Hello, Thanks for the info. on your approach to using the Blue Press and Peel transfer. Do almost the same except don t have a way of monitoring the iron s
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-06 by kx4om
Some Laser printers have toner that melts at considerably higher Temps. Tech support at Techniks told me this a few years ago. Use the search feature for many
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-04 by Derek
The CFL act just similar to a flashlamp. They have negative resistance curves - initial high impedance and then low impedance once the arc is drawn. Takes me
Re: Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-04 by designer_craig
I have found the small 2 pin U lamps are actually 4 pin internally with filaments. Inside the base one pin from each end of the lamp are connected together
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-04 by Mike
Opened the Harbor Freight Laminator and found the cause of having to shove the board to get it to start progressing through. The upper and lower aluminum
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-03 by Stefan Trethan
With only two pins it is going to be of the cold start type using high voltage instead of heated filaments. I expect it won t start with a regular ballast. ST
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-03 by Benjamin Blumer
Just to confirm -- the U-shaped bulb I m using has only one set of pins. Do I use two pins on the lamp that are or that are not connected? Thanks! On
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-03 by Harvey White
... I have one as a potential project, stalled as any number of projects are due to real life(tm). ... Not that hard. Slow it down, temperature ought to be
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-03 by Larry Battraw
... Yes, it should be fine providing you get the filaments connected correctly (i.e. you need to connect one filament to one side, and vice-versa). You can
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-03 by Tim Hills
Been lurking for a while and it s been years since I had Ferric Chloride stains on my fingers. Just a thought or 2 on laminators. Has anyone tried adapting a
Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-03 by Mike
Hello, Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks Press and Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499. The
Re: Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-03 by Crazy Casta
PCB (terribly ambiguous name) does what you want. You open it, go to View- Enable visible grid, View- Grid size- 100 mil and you ve got what you want. It s gpl
Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-02 by b3nzilla
Hi all, After many hard-fought battles with different inkjet printers, I ve decided to try using the UV method with negative photoresist. I m wondering if
Re: Cheap HQ 2 layer prototype PCB boards
2011-11-02 by AlienRelics
There is still the issue of you pretending to be a third party recommending when it appears to be your businesss. In addition to the records another member
Re: Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-02 by Marchnites
... cheers Ray
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-02 by Stefan Trethan
You can probably set pretty much any software up with the right grid and do what you want. It s gonna take a little time to figure out how, since you say they
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-02 by carcasta
I would recommend Autrotrax, instead of Easytrax (you can open Easytrax files from Autotrax). Both products come from Altium (based on DOS, and originally
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-02 by William Laakkonen
http://www.the-meiers.org/services/easytrax/easyxtnddoc.html has what appears to be a SMD library. (Page in German) Eine geZIPte Version der
Re: Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-02 by dubob4432
How you describe what you are wanting is how I use eagle. But, it does have a weird workflow, so you can use it in a simple manner, but you kind of need to
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-02 by Larry Battraw
For the record I have tried .040, .062, and (barely) .080 through it. .040 and .062 seem to work fine in it as long as you re not trying to run a board wider
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-01 by KeepIt SimpleStupid
This is about the simplest program that i have used: http://www.lupinesystems.com/easytrax/#system It s probably not able to support surface mount ... From:
Simple PCB layout program
2011-11-01 by Marchnites
Having spent a great deal of time looking for, downloading and trying PCB layout programs I am trying to find one that simply presents a user set board with a
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-11-01 by arvidj01
For what ever reason this just showed up on November 1st. The coupon expired on October 26th. Never mind.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-28 by Stefan Trethan
The weight is the best indicator. You can also try CuCl etchant if you have it, or ferric cloride. They will etch stainless but not titanium. Sparks are white
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-28 by Jim Franklin
Do you always submit your tools to the Grinder test ? It made me smile anyway :) and my components don t stick -- it is definitely anti-magnetic,
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-28 by Charles Patton
Well, after the discussion about titanium tweezers, I went to Ebay and bought a tweezers from this link:
RE: Etching Titanium (was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator)
2011-10-26 by Tony Smith
... what we ... Laser the pattern instead (vinyl or plastic masking), then sandblast. Common enough technique. Tony
Re: Etching Titanium (was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator)
2011-10-26 by Iñigo
Forgot about HF. It can kill you quite easily. 2011/10/26 David Griffith ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Etching Titanium (was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator)
2011-10-26 by David Griffith
... If you re interested in pursuing Ti etching, try a mechanical approach. Suppose we put a pattern on a sheet of thin rubber, then dissolve away what we
Etching Titanium (was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator)
2011-10-26 by Donald H Locker
I ll let you know when I figure out a safe one. I believe HydroFluoric (HF) acid etches it quite well, but is extremely hazardous to handle. Most of the
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-10-25 by bklyngrrl1
I use mostly non-ferrous metals - copper, brass, bronze, nickel silver, etc. Stainless and mild steel are next on my list of metals to try, but that means
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-10-25 by Donald H Locker
Laminator should work with sheet metal if it s not too thick. I don t have experience with this particular laminator, but many printed circuit boards are 1/16
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-10-25 by bklyngrrl1
thanks!
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-25 by Tony Smith
... tweezers ... I ve got a couple of these http://www.wiltronics.com.au/catalogue/191731/science/tweezers-and-forceps (4th down, TL1054) and some that they no
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-25 by Piers Goodhew
I would presume there would also be *some* adhesion due to moisture and/or grease (such as might come out of your fingertips from time to time). If you have
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-25 by Tony Smith
... steel ... ... tweezers are ... not ... Austenite stainless is 300 series, usually non-magnetic but can be after beaten into shape (work hardening). You
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Components stick to tools
2011-10-24 by Charles R. Patton
In the very early days of SMT parts, the terminations were pure silver. Not magnetic, but the silver dissolved rapidly leaving the part with no terminations,
Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
2011-10-24 by leeleduc
Laminator Coupon, expires 10/26.
Re: epson s22
2011-10-24 by fastlink30
or else dx7450
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Components stick to tools
2011-10-24 by Erik Knise
When I did production soldering I had this problem a lot and I would clean my tweezers with isopropyl alcohol and they would be good to go. I thought it was
Re: Components stick to tools
2011-10-24 by arvidj01
If we make the assumption that non- and anti- magnetic mean the same thing then most stainless steel falls into that category. Austenite stainless steel ...