Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Tin Plating
2013-09-18 by Art Eckstein
I am in the process of trying to do it based on this man s work:
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2013-09-18 by Art Eckstein
I am in the process of trying to do it based on this man s work:
2013-09-18 by g3oou@...
I have had some success with the tin plating product sold by Rapid Online but it requires the copper surface to be extremely clean or results are patchy. Once
2013-09-18 by Robin Whittle
A further correction . . . The LED I bought was advertised http://www.ebay.com/itm/120896174810 as: 380 to 385nm 1000mA 9 to 11V 900 to 1100mW output actually
2013-09-18 by <pcbhouse@...>
Thanks caveteursus and Hans for your kind suggestions. But unfortunately neither CoolAmp nor Liquid Tin available in my country (Sri Lanka) :( Any other
2013-09-18 by <pcbhouse@...>
Anyone tried PCB Tin Plating with Tin Chloride, Thiourea and Sulfamic Acid? I just tried and I got only few tin spots . Any suggestions pls.
2013-09-18 by Robin Whittle
UV transmission of glass and acrylic. UV LEDs for photoplotting direct to Riston. Hi Slavko, I think this exposure time is short. Looking at the way various
2013-09-17 by brane2
Dne 16. 09. 2013 20:15, pis(e Slavko Kocjancic: ... Majority is irrelevant here. What is important, is whether you will be understood by anyone that can
2013-09-17 by Slavko Kocjancic
At least some usable data about led s. So 10W led at 30cm need 60 seconds, That s seems little long for photoploting. But maybe isn t all lost as I thinking to
2013-09-17 by Robin Whittle
A correction: the exposure times I tested were 20, 40, 60 and 80 seconds, not 100 seconds. I got good results at 40, 60 and 80 seconds - a 2:1 exposure range.
2013-09-17 by Robin Whittle
Short version: 10W ~380nm LED exposes Riston in about 60 seconds at 30cm. A 3W one would be less expensive and require about 3 minutes. Previously I used a
2013-09-17 by Boman33
That is why I suggested to run it through the printer first without printing to dry and shrink it in advance of printing the final image. Bertho From: Slavko
2013-09-17 by Slavko Kocjancic
The output difference isn t consistent. As I just do one check I clearly see that paper itself isn t same size when come out of printer.
2013-09-17 by Slavko Kocjancic
Huh... I quickly does one measurment. I just measure blank sheet, it was 296.5mm I put it in printer and make test print. I measure sheet again and it is 295.5
2013-09-17 by <fred27murphy@...>
If you re thinking of vector drawing on your CNC then it might be worth checking out the pcb-gcode Yahoo group. The software is an extension to Eagle for
2013-09-17 by Slavko Kocjancic
The 150mW laser cost 50eur, the 3W led is 2eur. I don t know how hard is to focus LED but I select 3W as this is made on one die, so it s more close to point
2013-09-17 by Slavko Kocjancic
Hello... I do use compensation (ie image scalling to 99.8%) as in that case I got best result. The anyoning part is that error is not constant. It s varies
2013-09-17 by Frances Fischer
Most printers ( and copiers)) enlarge the output to 102% to prevent the edges from having a corona. Try scaling back to 98% and check your measurements. From:
2013-09-17 by Mark Harrison
Hi Slavko, It is very common for laser printers to have errors in vertical and horizontal dimensions. It s probably the same for Inkjet printers and plotters.
2013-09-17 by Boman33
Slavko, One thing to check is if there is a change related to the high fusing temperature. On paper, try printing a blank page so it will go through the
2013-09-16 by ctech
Slavlo: regarding your print dimensions,.. I had a very simliar problem, printed copper and solder mask, etched the board and and then the solder mask did not
2013-09-16 by Slavko Kocjancic
...so to clean up the problem, and not to argue... I can make small board with toner transfer metod. Fine traces aren t problem. I can make small board with
2013-09-16 by smilingcat90254
Hi Buckwheat, maybe you should refrain from condescending remarks which I have highlighted in bold. It doesn t add any useful information. I could easily
2013-09-16 by designer_craig
The 150mw or even higher power UV lasers are available on Ebay, they are used in BlueRay DVD players. An LED would work but it will take a very long time to
2013-09-16 by Slavko Kocjancic
Just go to the group website and look for calendar icon (history) click and select november 1009. Then folow to the around date 12.
2013-09-16 by brane2
Hmm... I m not trying to be language fascist as god knows I make many mistakes, but here I have hard time following what you are trying to say. Maybe quick
2013-09-16 by Slavko Kocjancic
Hello... With this type (photo with transparency) of operation I can make board for SMD, TQFP... down to 0.5mm pin pitch. But I m not able to make one big
2013-09-16 by smilingcat90254
Just out of curiosity, why the vector writing an image. Sounds like it would take a long time to draw out your circuit pattern. I ve gone from pulsar toner
2013-09-15 by ctech
Does anyone have a link to Volkan msg of the 9th of November? yahoo search just give me error msg s
2013-09-15 by Slavko Kocjancic
I found that posts but there are 150mW laser involved. And this thing isn t cheap. In other side the UV power led is cheap. And I think that 3W UV led should
2013-09-14 by designer_craig
If you are interested in direct imaging a photo sensitized board search back through the posts around Nov of 09 for Volkan. He built a UV laser diode direct
2013-09-13 by <eslavko@...>
Hello... Long time ago I remember that someone has UV laser mounted on inkjet printer and developing photoresist on pcb directly. I d like to know is someone
2013-09-10 by <rcbuckiii@...>
I bought some of the dry film from the same ebay vendor last month. I have not had any problems with it. Make sure the board is clean. I use Bar Keepers Friend
2013-09-09 by yksvoma
I tried this household chemical mixture, it works, but a lot slower. Did not try heating or bubbler, only slight mechanical agitation. Source:
2013-09-08 by M A
Hi Every one, I m newbie in etching circuit in Flex / panel. I want to know abt etch back. We have already etched unwanted copper from circuit. Then why we
2013-09-07 by Sam Rod
Andy, Im sure you have already established this But i say just to make sure your clear because the devil is n the details. 1: CuCl will eat/dissolve most
2013-09-07 by Andrew Volk
Sam - Thanks for the reply. So you are saying that standard drip irrigation system components will be eaten by the CuCl etchant? Andy From:
2013-09-07 by Sam Rod
Andy, Their was no for me to know un less I did a stress test. I was hoping i would no have to build some elaborate heater so I chose to submerge the heater un
2013-09-07 by Andrew Volk
Sam - Everything looks quite straightforward, except the heater. It looks like it is completely immersed, cord and all, in the tank. Am I seeing this right?
2013-09-06 by thesn1per
All, I posted up some pics of my tank broken down and assembled with and with out boards. their are quite a few pics hard to take pics of clear plastic.
2013-09-06 by Misc Clark
James! Thanks for that PDF! Clark Cone
2013-09-05 by tda7000
I am currently using similar resist I got on eBay. I have not yet had problems with it flaking off. I follow a procedure much the same as James detailed.
2013-09-05 by John
Here are some comments I found on the PZ541 http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/122682-time-new-drill-stand.html From: arvidj@visi.com
2013-09-05 by <arvidj@...>
Here are some other links that I ran across looking for a solution. Note that this is not an endorsement of any of them. Simply trying to share what little
2013-09-05 by <arvidj@...>
It appears to be the same as a PZ541 Vertical Drill Stand . I do not have either one. Just wanted to pass along an additional set of tokens to Google for
2013-09-05 by <twgray2007@...>
No, I don t leave the developer on the board after developing. The last stage of developing is rinsing in cool water to wash the unexposed areas of the film
2013-09-05 by James
The points I gave still apply, they are the reasons for easy to remove resist. Although I wonder if you may be doing something a bit weird, no need to let the
2013-09-05 by <twgray2007@...>
No, after developing and letting the board dry...usually overnight...the resist just flakes off in some spots. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
2013-09-05 by James
Do you mean that after/during development some of the exposed areas (traces) are lifting off the board? If so, that is most likely down to... 1. Insufficient
2013-09-04 by <twgray2007@...>
I recently purchased some of the some of the dry film negative photoresist sheets from: http://www.digole.com/index.php?productID=228 and am experiencing a
2013-09-04 by Sam Rod
Mike, Could I suggest. if you plan on making any more boards in the near future. I would still suggest doing a test piece. But in parallel I would also mix up