RE: Re: CuCl etchant - an update
2013-09-04 by <mbushroe@...>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> wrote: >Curious When you say slow. >How long is that? Almost a
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2013-09-04 by <mbushroe@...>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> wrote: >Curious When you say slow. >How long is that? Almost a
2013-09-04 by thesn1per
Curious When you say slow. How long is that? from what I gather I would say 1/2oz per 5-10 mins is about the average. depending on factors like. agitation,
2013-09-04 by <mbushroe@...>
I left mine bubbling over the winter. It is now a dark green and very opaque. On the other hand, I have not etched a new board in quite some time, so I
2013-09-04 by thesn1per
@HW Ill take some detailed Pics of my etching tank. (I never got around to that part) My tank (all acrylic) holds the boards just about vertical with the
2013-09-04 by Harvey White
... My Mother in Law lives in Sun City Center, we were down there yesterday. ... The blue is as it is just starting off, once it s CuCl, it s olive. ... I
2013-09-04 by Sam Rod
Harvey, I m in Tampa looks like were almost neighbors. :) Mine seems to settle in around olive green. Ive never seen any blue to speak of. my ingredients are:
2013-09-04 by Sam Rod
I myself have never used FeCl Im sure it works but Ive never tried it. Seems to easy to get some off the shelf products and make your own. I found the darker
2013-09-04 by Harvey White
... Hmmmm. Ok. As I first started it, peroxide and HCl, the mixture was transparent and colorless. Boards etched in about 6 minutes or so (I did have air
2013-09-04 by <twgray2007@...>
To clarify, the board was turning pinkish, like it does if you wipe a plated board with FeCl, starting to etch. ... Pink was the color of the copper, not the
2013-09-04 by <twgray2007@...>
OK, mine looks just like that but no etching. As I said in the earlier post, I let it heat and bubble for about 24 hours with no joy, so I added an
2013-09-03 by <twgray2007@...>
Well mine is bright emerald and completely transparent...and not etching. ... Refresher. Small amount of Hydrogen peroxide.(optional) Drop in a small
2013-09-03 by Harvey White
... Pink was the color of the copper, not the solution. Harvey
2013-09-03 by <twgray2007@...>
Yes, I am heating and bubbling at the same time...just like a hot tub! :=> I am running it with stranded copper wire at the moment to see if that kicks it
2013-09-03 by thesn1per
Forgot to mention. here is what mine looked like. http://thesn1per.blogspot.com/2013/06/diy-circuit-boards-tachometer.html The color you see is the result
2013-09-03 by thesn1per
Pink? should be green or some shade of. Sam Read this. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/
2013-09-03 by thesn1per
Refresher. Small amount of Hydrogen peroxide.(optional) Drop in a small piece pf copper and bubble away. your looking for a dark green color. This is an
2013-09-03 by Harvey White
... I wonder about the original proportions, I used about 4 parts H202 (standard drugstore) and 1 part muriatic acid (standard box store). ... you need to have
2013-09-03 by <twgray2007@...>
OK, I tried bubbling air through the mixture for about 24 hours with no change. I heated to about 40 C and placed a PCB in just to test and after about
2013-09-03 by ctech
hahahaha 5W soldering iron ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2013-09-03 by Bip's
Hi Leon, This is a typical false claim advertisement. They claim that it is 5W, but the max that USB interface will deliver is 2.5W (5V @ 500mA). You will
2013-09-03 by Eddie Stassen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oklHlZwPLas I think I ll give this one a miss :) ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2013-09-03 by Leon Heller
http://uk.farnell.com/mega-power/msd-086/soldering-iron-5w-usb-480-deg/dp/2308559?Ntt=MegaPower Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2013-09-03 by <v321uk@...>
Does anyone here have experience in using an Expo 14211 mini drill stand? Intended use occasional PCB making. Is there much 'run out' ? Would you
2013-09-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2013-08-31 by <andrewm1973@...>
Yes, when I first moved from photo to toner transfer 20 years ago I used a laserjet and faber branded trannys. The brand was very critical to my process.
2013-08-31 by DJ Delorie
... http://www.delorie.com/pcb/transparencies/ The trick seems to be to make sure the toner sticks to the copper better than it sticks to the transparency - if
2013-08-30 by <cb277@...>
Has anyone tried using the toner transfer method using transparency film for laser printers?
2013-08-28 by Rick Sparber
The toner fuses into the powder coat which is strongly bonded to the metal. It takes a lot of rubbing with a 3M pad to get it off. Toner on clean copper will
2013-08-28 by brucethehoon
Excellent write up! Did you find that the toner adhered more readily/completely to the powder coated aluminum than to a clean copper clad board?
2013-08-24 by Andrew Leech
I ve used cool-amp a number of times in the past, and a little goes a very long way - I found it very cost effective. However, being silver, it tarnishes -
2013-08-24 by AlienRelics
Nothing to apologize for. Maybe someone in the UK was unaware of that source. Steve Greenfield AE7HD PS my name is not Ed, but I am the one who edited that
2013-08-24 by theminde@btinternet.com
Hey group, many apologies! I was just reading through the archives here and noticed the name Pulsar is known about, and it so happens that the advert I just
2013-08-24 by theminde@btinternet.com
Hello group. I just saw this and wondered if anyone has experience of it? regards all. Product here
2013-08-24 by Roger Blair
Hi Clark, I haven t yet tried the process with the China paper, whatever it is... I did get some to try when I have time (which won t be soon, due to other
2013-08-23 by cunningfellow
... Brass etching is very on topic for here. You use brass shims to apply solder paste. Pulsar process will be better as you also have the TRF Green layer to
2013-08-23 by Misc Clark
Hi Roger...thanks for the reply! Do you have opinion about whether the Pulsar process would be different, better, cheaper, or easier than the
2013-08-23 by RogerRetro
Clark, I have used the Pulsar toner transfer quite successfully on .005 & .010 brass sheet, and yes, there is some undercutting. It will take a bit of
2013-08-23 by Rick Sparber
Terry, It has drifted rather far. Sorry about that. Rick ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry
2013-08-23 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Clark It works fine for chemical machining, just make sure you have a good paint resist coating on the rear. You can also do deep etching for brass nameplates.
2013-08-23 by Terry
I don t normally grouse, but how did this topic get from Easy Fast Laser Print DIY Circuit Boards to etching brass plate ? Kind of far off topic for one
2013-08-23 by Rick Sparber
Clark, Actually, I m not a pcb guy ;-) When I want to make a board, I use pre-coated boards and contact printing. Nothing special there. My efforts,
2013-08-23 by Misc Clark
Hi Rick - thanks for replying...the process I m interested in is toner transfer onto shim brass for single-sided photoetching... I realize you pcb guys only do
2013-08-22 by Rick Sparber
Clark, Which procedure are you talking about? If it is the ability to fuse toner to powder coat, it should not matter what is under the powder coat as long as
2013-08-22 by Misc Clark
Hi all - fascinating discussion (I ve been lurking for quite awhile)...my interest is in photoetching shim brass.005 - .010 typically... any reason(s) this
2013-08-22 by kianush azari
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10448 for smd elemant use paste i design circuit for you send mail to me ... -- kiya
2013-08-22 by James
No, just going by what I ve seen of it being used. Have you seen this document from gail_and_nick on TradeMe?
2013-08-22 by Kerry Koppert
... Have you actually tried this with this coated paper . It certainly didn t work like this for me. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2013-08-21 by Stefan Trethan
I have used the rosin laquer many times with good results. It just takes slightly longer than regular paint to dry. You can either mix your own colophony resin
2013-08-21 by Charles R Patton
Dave, I agree with your conclusion. Spray coating the copper just after the resist has been removed is a good look and what I did with acrylic spray at times
2013-08-21 by Rick Sparber
Have you tried placing it in the freezer for 30 minutes to help weaken the bond between paper and toner? Rick ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com