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question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-18 by evanj1969

this may be a question for paul,

 is it possible to have a B&W print from an inkjet printer, that 
doesn't have a magenta (or the opposite end of the spectrum),a green 
undertone in the darker areas. (with the current state of inks/paper 
that we have to choose from)
 i use Epson Premium Semi-Gloss & Luster only, no matte stock.

 i've used about every MIS B&W inkset/combination, as well as IJC/OPM 
with OEM inks, and i have had a great deal of trouble achieving 
a "perceivably" neutral print  in the darker tones.

 it "seems" that one would have to make some concessions in the 
darker areas and have a warm (or magenta toned) print from the 60% 
range and above. i'm not able to get a neutral print (with my eye), 
and if my densitometer reads neutral, the final print always has a 
slight greenish undertone to it.

 thanks 
 evan

RE: [Digital BW] question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-18 by Paul Roark

Even,

>Is it possible to have a B&W print from an inkjet printer, that 
>doesn't have a magenta (or the opposite end of the spectrum),a green 
>undertone in the darker areas. (with the current state of inks/paper 
>that we have to choose from)
> i use Epson Premium Semi-Gloss & Luster only, no matte stock.

Balancing the appropriate amount of magenta v. green in the shadows is the
trickiest part of the ink mixing.  The hues change as the density changes on
a single piece of paper, and each paper is different.

I've been slowly reducing the amount of magenta as I make the inks, in part
due to the movement toward more glossy prints, and in part due to my
increasing dislike for the obviously magenta shadows.

Among the neutral-cool dark gray inks, FSN-C is the least magenta cast.
(There is none of the old magenta in these mixes, and I hate to say it's
"green.")  It has the same ratio of color pigments as the UT7 LK-N.

If you were into mixing inks, you could use these to mix the other grays.

On the other hand, you might find that one of these in a printer might give
you the control you need.

> ... if my densitometer reads neutral, the final print always has a 
>slight greenish undertone to it.

That is why a slight "selenium" tone (sounds better than magenta) is
generally favored for "neutral" prints.

You can also see why I am somewhat interested in making a low gamut B&W
inksets, but only if an affordable profiling software can do a good job with
it.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Re: [Digital BW] question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-18 by evanj1969

> Among the neutral-cool dark gray inks, FSN-C is the least magenta 
cast.
> (There is none of the old magenta in these mixes, and I hate to say 
it's
> "green.")  It has the same ratio of color pigments as the UT7 LK-N.
> 
> If you were into mixing inks, you could use these to mix the other 
grays.
> 
> On the other hand, you might find that one of these in a printer 
might give
> you the control you need.


 are you referring to Ultratone FSN-C?

 the CLOSEST i have gotten to eliminating that magenta cast was using 
the following in my 1280....(all ultratone inks)
Pk, FSN-C, FSN-M, FSN-C, EZN, & MIS GP Archival Light Cyan (actual 
light cyan). this gave me a coolish print, with still a "hit" of 
magenta/coolish tone in the darker areas. for some subjects, it was 
quite pleasing, but if prefer just a neutral print every day.

 right now i've switched to the 2200, and also have IJC.(so i 
wouldn't HAVE to use 5 shades of gray, i can cut off any of the 
inkjets i don't need). i was just curious if there were any better 
options as i'm still having the same problem with the OEM inks, but 
can achieve the same "tone" as using MIS inks. it is slightly less 
smooth in the highlights (but on the wall you'd never know). i can't 
speak for the longevity of the prints relative to ones done with the 
MIS inks.

 do you see at this point in time, any better options than the above 
mixture i listed to eliminate that awful magenta cast?
 would the Ultratone FS (not the neutral version) be a more viable 
option on Semi-Gloss/Luster? i haven't tried those yet.

 thanks for the help, it's always appreciated

RE: [Digital BW] question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by Paul Roark

You've probably hit the main options here.  The UT-FSN inks with a Light
cyan, or just the carbon inks with LC, LM, & IJC.  One advantage of using
the UT-FSN + LC instead of the FS + LC & LM, is that you avoid the M.  The
UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more stable ink.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: evanj1969 [mailto:evanj69@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 11:15 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] question for paul/print that doesn't have a
magenta tone




> Among the neutral-cool dark gray inks, FSN-C is the least magenta 
cast.
> (There is none of the old magenta in these mixes, and I hate to say 
it's
> "green.")  It has the same ratio of color pigments as the UT7 LK-N.
> 
> If you were into mixing inks, you could use these to mix the other 
grays.
> 
> On the other hand, you might find that one of these in a printer 
might give
> you the control you need.


 are you referring to Ultratone FSN-C?

 the CLOSEST i have gotten to eliminating that magenta cast was using 
the following in my 1280....(all ultratone inks)
Pk, FSN-C, FSN-M, FSN-C, EZN, & MIS GP Archival Light Cyan (actual 
light cyan). this gave me a coolish print, with still a "hit" of 
magenta/coolish tone in the darker areas. for some subjects, it was 
quite pleasing, but if prefer just a neutral print every day.

 right now i've switched to the 2200, and also have IJC.(so i 
wouldn't HAVE to use 5 shades of gray, i can cut off any of the 
inkjets i don't need). i was just curious if there were any better 
options as i'm still having the same problem with the OEM inks, but 
can achieve the same "tone" as using MIS inks. it is slightly less 
smooth in the highlights (but on the wall you'd never know). i can't 
speak for the longevity of the prints relative to ones done with the 
MIS inks.

 do you see at this point in time, any better options than the above 
mixture i listed to eliminate that awful magenta cast?
 would the Ultratone FS (not the neutral version) be a more viable 
option on Semi-Gloss/Luster? i haven't tried those yet.

 thanks for the help, it's always appreciated






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Re: question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by evanj1969

OK, so say i wanted to set up my 2200 with grays, FSN specially, and 
leave IJC out of the equation for the moment and use Photoshop.

i'd be printing ONLY on EPSG,EPL,EPSM and i want the least amount of 
green and magenta (a neutral balance of the two i guess) how would i 
configure my ink slots?

all Ultratones.....
Pk .. Lk (Custom Light Black) what is that? .. FSN-C .. FSN-M .. FSN-
C .. FSN-M and THEN that actual Light Cyan (used as a cooler) to tone 
down the magnet, or would it to tone down the green??

>The UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
stable ink.

 are you saying that i shouldn't get the magenta undertone with the 
latest UT FSN inks?

sorry paul, i'm just a bit confused

 evan


" <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> You've probably hit the main options here.  The UT-FSN inks with a 
Light
> cyan, or just the carbon inks with LC, LM, & IJC.  One advantage of 
using
> the UT-FSN + LC instead of the FS + LC & LM, is that you avoid the 
M.  The
> UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
stable ink.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----

> > Among the neutral-cool dark gray inks, FSN-C is the least magenta 
> cast.
> > (There is none of the old magenta in these mixes, and I hate to 
say 
> it's
> > "green.")  It has the same ratio of color pigments as the UT7 LK-
N.
> > 
> > If you were into mixing inks, you could use these to mix the 
other 
> grays.
> > 
> > On the other hand, you might find that one of these in a printer 
> might give
> > you the control you need.
> 
> 
>  are you referring to Ultratone FSN-C?
> 
>  the CLOSEST i have gotten to eliminating that magenta cast was 
using 
> the following in my 1280....(all ultratone inks)
> Pk, FSN-C, FSN-M, FSN-C, EZN, & MIS GP Archival Light Cyan (actual 
> light cyan). this gave me a coolish print, with still a "hit" of 
> magenta/coolish tone in the darker areas. for some subjects, it was 
> quite pleasing, but if prefer just a neutral print every day.
> 
>  right now i've switched to the 2200, and also have IJC.(so i 
> wouldn't HAVE to use 5 shades of gray, i can cut off any of the 
> inkjets i don't need). i was just curious if there were any better 
> options as i'm still having the same problem with the OEM inks, but 
> can achieve the same "tone" as using MIS inks. it is slightly less 
> smooth in the highlights (but on the wall you'd never know). i 
can't 
> speak for the longevity of the prints relative to ones done with 
the 
> MIS inks.
> 
>  do you see at this point in time, any better options than the 
above 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> mixture i listed to eliminate that awful magenta cast?
>  would the Ultratone FS (not the neutral version) be a more viable 
> option on Semi-Gloss/Luster? i haven't tried those yet.
> 
>  thanks for the help, it's always appreciated
> 
> 
>

RE: [Digital BW] Re: question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by Paul Roark

Evan,

>... say i wanted to set up my 2200 with grays, FSN specially, and 
>leave IJC out of the equation for the moment and use Photoshop.

I thought you were using a 1280 with IJC.

>i'd be printing ONLY on EPSG,EPL,EPSM 

I have never used UT-FSN in a 2200.  I'm sure you could set it up, but I
have no curves.  In general, the CMCM (dark-light) combination works.  LK
could be LK-N.  

The Y might be best reserved for Glop, but I have not tested that either.
If you want to use that spot for a light cyan to control the magenta, then
that would exclude the Glop in that spot.

If you are printing only on glossy paper, you might also want to just load
PK.

So, I can't make any recommendations for this set up based on my experiences
with it.

>... i want the least amount of green and magenta 
>(a neutral balance of the two i guess) ...

This is so subjective that I really can't say any more than I have.  The
UT-FSN-C has the least amount of magenta cast relative to green.  Hitting it
right on for more than one paper, one density, and one ink batch is
virtually impossible.  

>all Ultratones.....Pk .. Lk (Custom Light Black) what is that?

My formula for UT7 called for a neutralized LK.  I assume MIS is shipping
it, but I don't know.

>...Light Cyan (used as a cooler) to tone 
>down the magnet, or would it to tone down the green??

When you add magenta it cools with a greenish cast.

I must say, I think you're getting into a mess here.  Cyan on top of UT-FSN
is going to be very cold. I'd recommend you stick with standard inksets.

>>The UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
stable ink.

> are you saying that i shouldn't get the magenta undertone 
>with the latest UT FSN inks?

I think you ought to try them before trying to modify the systems.

I'm not sure what inkset you used in that past.  The MIS inks prior to my
re-formulations had become excessively magenta, due, I assume, to the
instability of the magenta pigment.

I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are comfortable with even
grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to profile a PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, D,
M, Y setup.  

I have curves for the 1280 and the UT-FSN setup.  I thought you had a 1280.
If so, I recommend you start by buying a pre-loaded UT-FSN cart and using a
pre-made curve to see if you like the tones.

Good luck.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 

_____________________________

" <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> You've probably hit the main options here.  The UT-FSN inks with a 
Light
> cyan, or just the carbon inks with LC, LM, & IJC.  One advantage of 
using
> the UT-FSN + LC instead of the FS + LC & LM, is that you avoid the 
M.  The
> UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
stable ink.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----

> > Among the neutral-cool dark gray inks, FSN-C is the least magenta 
> cast.
> > (There is none of the old magenta in these mixes, and I hate to 
say 
> it's
> > "green.")  It has the same ratio of color pigments as the UT7 LK-
N.
> > 
> > If you were into mixing inks, you could use these to mix the 
other 
> grays.
> > 
> > On the other hand, you might find that one of these in a printer 
> might give
> > you the control you need.
> 
> 
>  are you referring to Ultratone FSN-C?
> 
>  the CLOSEST i have gotten to eliminating that magenta cast was 
using 
> the following in my 1280....(all ultratone inks)
> Pk, FSN-C, FSN-M, FSN-C, EZN, & MIS GP Archival Light Cyan (actual 
> light cyan). this gave me a coolish print, with still a "hit" of 
> magenta/coolish tone in the darker areas. for some subjects, it was 
> quite pleasing, but if prefer just a neutral print every day.
> 
>  right now i've switched to the 2200, and also have IJC.(so i 
> wouldn't HAVE to use 5 shades of gray, i can cut off any of the 
> inkjets i don't need). i was just curious if there were any better 
> options as i'm still having the same problem with the OEM inks, but 
> can achieve the same "tone" as using MIS inks. it is slightly less 
> smooth in the highlights (but on the wall you'd never know). i 
can't 
> speak for the longevity of the prints relative to ones done with 
the 
> MIS inks.
> 
>  do you see at this point in time, any better options than the 
above 
> mixture i listed to eliminate that awful magenta cast?
>  would the Ultratone FS (not the neutral version) be a more viable 
> option on Semi-Gloss/Luster? i haven't tried those yet.
> 
>  thanks for the help, it's always appreciated
> 
> 
> 







Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
they are often being updated.

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Please follow these basic guidelines:
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- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the
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- Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from
the membership.
- By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/

BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND
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FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS,
GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  "OWNER" AND
"MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE
POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY
TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR
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Re: question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by evanj1969

sorry for the confusion paul,

 i WAS using a 1280 with the PK/FSN/Light Cyan (in the yellow 
position), but got frustrated with the constant clogging, and having 
to reload and entire cartridge just to do some experimenting (i'm a 
constant tinkerer)

 i have upgraded to a 2200 (to do occasional color), and "hoping" to 
not have the clogging issues.

 the UT FSN i have,  i purchased when it FIRST was offered by MIS. 
using the GP Light Cyan was the ONLY way i found to control the 
magenta (it gave more of a cool tone vs. a neutral one). i used it 
very sparingly, as i'm sure you know, it can get away from you very 
easily.

 i can't speak for the EPSM "yet", but i found the EPSG & EPL are so 
similar in the hues once printed, that they are almost 
interchangeable.

 i guess what i was asking was ..... is the UT FSN different now than 
when FIRST released? that was the impression i got.
 if not, then i'm quite sure i could get the 2200 set up to print as 
the 1280 did. i just hoped to avoid all the experimentation i have 
done on the 1280, and just move forward (even thought this technology 
is constantly evolving).

>I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are comfortable with 
even
grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to profile a PK, UT7-LKN, C, 
M, D,
M, Y setup.
 
 did you intend to say PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, C, M, Y setup. (you have 
C,M,D,M,Y)? what's the D?

thanks again for tolerating my ignorance here
it's much appreciated
 
evan

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Evan,
> 
> >... say i wanted to set up my 2200 with grays, FSN specially, and 
> >leave IJC out of the equation for the moment and use Photoshop.
> 
> I thought you were using a 1280 with IJC.
> 
> >i'd be printing ONLY on EPSG,EPL,EPSM 
> 
> I have never used UT-FSN in a 2200.  I'm sure you could set it up, 
but I
> have no curves.  In general, the CMCM (dark-light) combination 
works.  LK
> could be LK-N.  
> 
> The Y might be best reserved for Glop, but I have not tested that 
either.
> If you want to use that spot for a light cyan to control the 
magenta, then
> that would exclude the Glop in that spot.
> 
> If you are printing only on glossy paper, you might also want to 
just load
> PK.
> 
> So, I can't make any recommendations for this set up based on my 
experiences
> with it.
> 
> >... i want the least amount of green and magenta 
> >(a neutral balance of the two i guess) ...
> 
> This is so subjective that I really can't say any more than I 
have.  The
> UT-FSN-C has the least amount of magenta cast relative to green.  
Hitting it
> right on for more than one paper, one density, and one ink batch is
> virtually impossible.  
> 
> >all Ultratones.....Pk .. Lk (Custom Light Black) what is that?
> 
> My formula for UT7 called for a neutralized LK.  I assume MIS is 
shipping
> it, but I don't know.
> 
> >...Light Cyan (used as a cooler) to tone 
> >down the magnet, or would it to tone down the green??
> 
> When you add magenta it cools with a greenish cast.
> 
> I must say, I think you're getting into a mess here.  Cyan on top 
of UT-FSN
> is going to be very cold. I'd recommend you stick with standard 
inksets.
> 
> >>The UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a 
more 
> stable ink.
> 
> > are you saying that i shouldn't get the magenta undertone 
> >with the latest UT FSN inks?
> 
> I think you ought to try them before trying to modify the systems.
> 
> I'm not sure what inkset you used in that past.  The MIS inks prior 
to my
> re-formulations had become excessively magenta, due, I assume, to 
the
> instability of the magenta pigment.
> 
> I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are comfortable with 
even
> grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to profile a PK, UT7-LKN, 
C, M, D,
> M, Y setup.  
> 
> I have curves for the 1280 and the UT-FSN setup.  I thought you had 
a 1280.
> If so, I recommend you start by buying a pre-loaded UT-FSN cart and 
using a
> pre-made curve to see if you like the tones.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> _____________________________
> 
> " <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> > You've probably hit the main options here.  The UT-FSN inks with 
a 
> Light
> > cyan, or just the carbon inks with LC, LM, & IJC.  One advantage 
of 
> using
> > the UT-FSN + LC instead of the FS + LC & LM, is that you avoid 
the 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> M.  The
> > UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
> stable ink.
> > 
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com 
> > 
> >

RE: [Digital BW] Re: question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by Paul Roark

Evan,

> i WAS using a 1280 with the PK/FSN/Light Cyan (in the yellow 
>position), but got frustrated with the constant clogging, and having 
>to reload and entire cartridge just to do some experimenting (i'm a 
>constant tinkerer)

I've been of the impression that much of the 1280 clogging is actually the
carts -- there have been some terrible batches.  All too often one jet just
will not release ink adequately.  I'm hopeful that the new sponge-less ones
work out.  MIS is testing them now.  

> i have upgraded to a 2200 (to do occasional color), and "hoping" to 
>not have the clogging issues.

At least with the C86, the easy-refill carts seem to be very reliable.  They
do need priming, but that's about it.

> the UT FSN i have,  i purchased when it FIRST was offered by MIS.

That used the old magenta.

The reason I think (can't be 100% sure, but I'll see if I can get a response
form MIS on the question) the pre-loaded 1280 UT-FSN carts will have the new
stuff is that MIS never supported the CMCMY ink order until I recently wrote
curves for that setup.

>... i found the EPSG & EPL are so similar in the hues once printed, 
>that they are almost interchangeable.

True, and Premium Semimatte will have about the same tone, though it'll take
a different curves set.

With PSM, the shadow spectrophotometer readings indicate a magenta that is
elevated about 0.01 density unit.  The Lab is about a = 0.6.  

> is the UT FSN different now than when FIRST released? 

Yes, and much different than what it ended up.  The entire MIS line drifted
way too magenta in my view.  That is why I suggest you try the new UT-FSN
before spending a lot of time with the other approaches.


>>I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are 
>>comfortable with even grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to 
>>profile a PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, D, M, Y setup.
 
> did you intend to say PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, C, M, Y setup. 

Yes.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Evan,
> 
> >... say i wanted to set up my 2200 with grays, FSN specially, and 
> >leave IJC out of the equation for the moment and use Photoshop.
> 
> I thought you were using a 1280 with IJC.
> 
> >i'd be printing ONLY on EPSG,EPL,EPSM 
> 
> I have never used UT-FSN in a 2200.  I'm sure you could set it up, 
but I
> have no curves.  In general, the CMCM (dark-light) combination 
works.  LK
> could be LK-N.  
> 
> The Y might be best reserved for Glop, but I have not tested that 
either.
> If you want to use that spot for a light cyan to control the 
magenta, then
> that would exclude the Glop in that spot.
> 
> If you are printing only on glossy paper, you might also want to 
just load
> PK.
> 
> So, I can't make any recommendations for this set up based on my 
experiences
> with it.
> 
> >... i want the least amount of green and magenta 
> >(a neutral balance of the two i guess) ...
> 
> This is so subjective that I really can't say any more than I 
have.  The
> UT-FSN-C has the least amount of magenta cast relative to green.  
Hitting it
> right on for more than one paper, one density, and one ink batch is
> virtually impossible.  
> 
> >all Ultratones.....Pk .. Lk (Custom Light Black) what is that?
> 
> My formula for UT7 called for a neutralized LK.  I assume MIS is 
shipping
> it, but I don't know.
> 
> >...Light Cyan (used as a cooler) to tone 
> >down the magnet, or would it to tone down the green??
> 
> When you add magenta it cools with a greenish cast.
> 
> I must say, I think you're getting into a mess here.  Cyan on top 
of UT-FSN
> is going to be very cold. I'd recommend you stick with standard 
inksets.
> 
> >>The UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a 
more 
> stable ink.
> 
> > are you saying that i shouldn't get the magenta undertone 
> >with the latest UT FSN inks?
> 
> I think you ought to try them before trying to modify the systems.
> 
> I'm not sure what inkset you used in that past.  The MIS inks prior 
to my
> re-formulations had become excessively magenta, due, I assume, to 
the
> instability of the magenta pigment.
> 
> I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are comfortable with 
even
> grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to profile a PK, UT7-LKN, 
C, M, D,
> M, Y setup.  
> 
> I have curves for the 1280 and the UT-FSN setup.  I thought you had 
a 1280.
> If so, I recommend you start by buying a pre-loaded UT-FSN cart and 
using a
> pre-made curve to see if you like the tones.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> _____________________________
> 
> " <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> > You've probably hit the main options here.  The UT-FSN inks with 
a 
> Light
> > cyan, or just the carbon inks with LC, LM, & IJC.  One advantage 
of 
> using
> > the UT-FSN + LC instead of the FS + LC & LM, is that you avoid 
the 
> M.  The
> > UT-FSN uses the new blue and avoid M entirely, making it a more 
> stable ink.
> > 
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com 
> > 
> > 







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Re: question for paul/print that doesn't have a magenta tone

2005-01-19 by evanj1969

got it, all that clears up a lot.

i'd have to agree with the cart issue, i've have some that REFUSED to 
fire. very frustrating.

but the good thing about the 2200 (a opposed to my 1280) is i can 
swap just ONE cart if i do get to tinkering.

thanks again for the help paul.

i'll give the new FSN a shot.

evan



> Evan,
> 
> > i WAS using a 1280 with the PK/FSN/Light Cyan (in the yellow 
> >position), but got frustrated with the constant clogging, and 
having 
> >to reload and entire cartridge just to do some experimenting (i'm 
a 
> >constant tinkerer)
> 
> I've been of the impression that much of the 1280 clogging is 
actually the
> carts -- there have been some terrible batches.  All too often one 
jet just
> will not release ink adequately.  I'm hopeful that the new sponge-
less ones
> work out.  MIS is testing them now.  
> 
> > i have upgraded to a 2200 (to do occasional color), and "hoping" 
to 
> >not have the clogging issues.
> 
> At least with the C86, the easy-refill carts seem to be very 
reliable.  They
> do need priming, but that's about it.
> 
> > the UT FSN i have,  i purchased when it FIRST was offered by MIS.
> 
> That used the old magenta.
> 
> The reason I think (can't be 100% sure, but I'll see if I can get a 
response
> form MIS on the question) the pre-loaded 1280 UT-FSN carts will 
have the new
> stuff is that MIS never supported the CMCMY ink order until I 
recently wrote
> curves for that setup.
> 
> >... i found the EPSG & EPL are so similar in the hues once 
printed, 
> >that they are almost interchangeable.
> 
> True, and Premium Semimatte will have about the same tone, though 
it'll take
> a different curves set.
> 
> With PSM, the shadow spectrophotometer readings indicate a magenta 
that is
> elevated about 0.01 density unit.  The Lab is about a = 0.6.  
> 
> > is the UT FSN different now than when FIRST released? 
> 
> Yes, and much different than what it ended up.  The entire MIS line 
drifted
> way too magenta in my view.  That is why I suggest you try the new 
UT-FSN
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> before spending a lot of time with the other approaches.
> 
> 
> >>I have not used UT-FSN in the 2200, but if you are 
> >>comfortable with even grayscale curves, you'd probably be able to 
> >>profile a PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, D, M, Y setup.
>  
> > did you intend to say PK, UT7-LKN, C, M, C, M, Y setup. 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com

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