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trying to do the right thing

trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by Rick Sparber

I have about 1/2 pint of used ferric chloride. I put it in a pint plastic
containers and mixed in a lot of baking soda. It is now a thick brown paste.
Our city has a hazardous waste collection day but I figured this stuff might
be trouble so called ahead. After a few hours, they called back and said no,
they can't take it. So what else can I do to make it safe for disposal in
the garbage?

 

Thanks,

 

Rick



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by James

Mix it into some quick set cement, or plaster, make a brick.  Put in bin.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.0

On 10/03/13 01:08, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> So what else can I do to make it safe for disposal in
> the garbage?.
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by Rick Sparber

James,

Perfect. Just what I was looking for. Even have the spare cement.

Thanks!

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of James
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 5:24 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] trying to do the right thing

Mix it into some quick set cement, or plaster, make a brick.  Put in bin.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.0

On 10/03/13 01:08, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> So what else can I do to make it safe for disposal in the garbage?.
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by leeleduc

The end of this article talks about disposal.

http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2009/01/25/the-chemistry-of-home-etched-pcbs/

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I have about 1/2 pint of used ferric chloride. I put it in a pint plastic
> containers and mixed in a lot of baking soda. It is now a thick brown paste.
> Our city has a hazardous waste collection day but I figured this stuff might
> be trouble so called ahead. After a few hours, they called back and said no,
> they can't take it. So what else can I do to make it safe for disposal in
> the garbage?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by Rick Sparber

The bottom line of this article is to turn the ferric chloride into a solid
and then just dump it. Any liquid removed can be poured down the drain. 

I like the idea of mixing it with cement to stabilize the solid. One thing
the author said is that ferric chloride can't be rejuvenated. A while back
someone suggested it could by using steel wool. Didn't work for me.

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of leeleduc
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 7:16 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing



The end of this article talks about disposal.

http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2009/01/25/the-chemistry-of-home-etched-pcbs/

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> I have about 1/2 pint of used ferric chloride. I put it in a pint 
> plastic containers and mixed in a lot of baking soda. It is now a thick
brown paste.
> Our city has a hazardous waste collection day but I figured this stuff 
> might be trouble so called ahead. After a few hours, they called back 
> and said no, they can't take it. So what else can I do to make it safe 
> for disposal in the garbage?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by Russell Shaw

On 10/03/13 01:30, Rick Sparber wrote:
> The bottom line of this article is to turn the ferric chloride into a solid
> and then just dump it. Any liquid removed can be poured down the drain.
>
> I like the idea of mixing it with cement to stabilize the solid. One thing
> the author said is that ferric chloride can't be rejuvenated. A while back
> someone suggested it could by using steel wool. Didn't work for me.

Steel wool will do nothing. You only use it when you want to create it in the 
first place.

By aerating the ferric chloride (possibly just with bubble etching like i do), 
it becomes copper chloride etchant and lasts years. Start off with 1:1 dilution 
with water. Add a bit (like 5%) HCl acid every few months. Keep covered when not 
in use. Disposal is nothing more than flushing money away.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-09 by Leon Heller

On 09/03/2013 14:30, Rick Sparber wrote:
> The bottom line of this article is to turn the ferric chloride into a solid
> and then just dump it. Any liquid removed can be poured down the drain.
>
> I like the idea of mixing it with cement to stabilize the solid. One thing
> the author said is that ferric chloride can't be rejuvenated. A while back
> someone suggested it could by using steel wool. Didn't work for me.

HCl and high-strength H2O2 will rejuvenate it.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Dave Sage

Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment can
clarify this for me.

I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we dispose
of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
any more after the reaction of etching?

I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a flocculent
i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there were
some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant down
the drain)?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Russell Shaw

On 11/03/13 00:02, Dave Sage wrote:
> Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment can
> clarify this for me.
>
> I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we dispose
> of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
> any more after the reaction of etching?
>
> I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
> solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
> ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a flocculent
> i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
> removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there were
> some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant down
> the drain)?

The ferric chloride i got was in a 60Lt bottle labelled "Profloc F", and they 
said it was used in sewer treatment. I've got lots left since i figured out how 
to keep regenerating the current tank etchant as copper chloride.

Copper chloride is very toxic to plants, as i found out when emptying a load on 
the back lawn. If you put it in a spray bottle, it'll make a wonderful weed 
killer. The grass recovers after a few weeks.

I don't know how toxic it is for the sewer system, but a different copper 
compound is commonly used for unblocking sewers.

<http://www.ebay.com/sch/Yard-Garden-Outdoor-Living-/159912/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=copper+sulphate>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Sulfate-Granular-Crystals-16oz-1-pound-/280873800939?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41656214eb>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Sulfate-Granular-Crystals-2-5lbs-/270968251199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16f7633f>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crystal-Plex-Copper-Sulfate-Pond-Algae-Control-Liquid-1-Gallon-/300770625622?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4607538856>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Applied-Bio-Chemists-Copper-Sulfate-5-Lb-/360578119738?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f421783a>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Leon Heller

On 10/03/2013 13:02, Dave Sage wrote:
> Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment can
> clarify this for me.
>
> I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we dispose
> of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
> any more after the reaction of etching?

Yes, copper kills the bugs that digest the sewage. Ferric chloride is 
actually used in water treatment.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Charlie Taylor

It is the preaence of metals thatbis the problem for sewerage works.

You are correct in that often ferric is used on treatment works as a
floculant.
On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment
> can
> clarify this for me.
>
> I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we
> dispose
> of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
> any more after the reaction of etching?
>
> I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
> solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
> ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a flocculent
> i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
> removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there were
> some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant
> down
> the drain)?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Charlie Taylor

in my opinon the preasence of ferric is not the issue. It is tje heavy
metals that is the peoblem.
On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@rogers.com> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment
> can
> clarify this for me.
>
> I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we
> dispose
> of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
> any more after the reaction of etching?
>
> I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
> solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
> ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a flocculent
> i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
> removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there were
> some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant
> down
> the drain)?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Rick Sparber

Russell,

Thanks for the help.

Rick

___________________________________________
By aerating the ferric chloride (possibly just with bubble etching like i
do), it becomes copper chloride etchant and lasts years. Start off with 1:1
dilution with water. Add a bit (like 5%) HCl acid every few months. Keep
covered when not in use. Disposal is nothing more than flushing money away.

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Rick Sparber

Leon,

My chemistry knowledge is small. What does "high-strength" mean?

Thanks,

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leon Heller
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 9:48 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing


HCl and high-strength H2O2 will rejuvenate it.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Leon Heller

On 10/03/2013 20:57, Rick Sparber wrote:
> Leon,
>
> My chemistry knowledge is small. What does "high-strength" mean?

The ordinary H2O2 you can buy is too dilute. You need the concentrated 
stuff.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Rick Sparber

Leon,

So is there a % concentration I should look for?

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leon Heller
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 2:11 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

On 10/03/2013 20:57, Rick Sparber wrote:
> Leon,
>
> My chemistry knowledge is small. What does "high-strength" mean?

The ordinary H2O2 you can buy is too dilute. You need the concentrated
stuff.

Leon

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Charlie Taylor

Yes i have been using 100% o2, only because its what i have around as my
bubler. I have yet to exgaust my ferric and have used it quite extensivley.
On Mar 10, 2013 8:56 PM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Russell,
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rick
>
> ___________________________________________
> By aerating the ferric chloride (possibly just with bubble etching like i
> do), it becomes copper chloride etchant and lasts years. Start off with 1:1
> dilution with water. Add a bit (like 5%) HCl acid every few months. Keep
> covered when not in use. Disposal is nothing more than flushing money away.
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Charlie Taylor

fyi  you can concentraye h202 by freezing it. skim of the remaining liquid
and ditch the ice.  Use the liquid as a more contrated h202
On Mar 10, 2013 8:56 PM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Russell,
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rick
>
> ___________________________________________
> By aerating the ferric chloride (possibly just with bubble etching like i
> do), it becomes copper chloride etchant and lasts years. Start off with 1:1
> dilution with water. Add a bit (like 5%) HCl acid every few months. Keep
> covered when not in use. Disposal is nothing more than flushing money away.
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

Neither iron nor copper are actually "heavy." Atomic number is part of the
definition. Fe (iron): 26 / Ni (nickel): 28 / Cu (copper): 29 / Zn (zinc):
30. Each of these needed by all life (in the proper quantities, of course).

Now, these buggers *are* heavy: Hg (mercury): 80 and Pb (lead): 82. Useful
but nasty metals.

Sorry for the quibble.  Heavy metals is commonly used to mean "toxic metal
compounds." That's okay. I need coffee. I'll feel better.

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design


On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Charlie Taylor <scubadogct@...>wrote:

> in my opinon the preasence of ferric is not the issue. It is tje heavy
> metals that is the peoblem.
> On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage treatment
> > can
> > clarify this for me.
> >
> > I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we
> > dispose
> > of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per se
> > any more after the reaction of etching?
> >
> > I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
> > solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
> > ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a flocculent
> > i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
> > removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there were
> > some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant
> > down
> > the drain)?
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-10 by Missouri Guy

I'm pretty sure that's the problem as well....heavy metals.  I've *heard*
that when
Western Electric was in business making telco products, 
that they were using ferrric chloride to etch their boards.  Then 
they used a cathodic (electrical) method to extract the copper out of
the etch.  Once that was done, the copper "ingot" would be shipped off to
their
own refinery to make wire or whatever.

If that's true...I wonder what exact method they actually used, i.e.,
what
the anodes/cathodes were, how long it took, voltage, etc etc.  Anybody
know?

Charlie

On Sun, 10 Mar 2013 18:29:12 +0000 Charlie Taylor <scubadogct@...>
writes:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> It is the preaence of metals thatbis the problem for sewerage works.
> 
> You are correct in that often ferric is used on treatment works as 
> a
> floculant.
> On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage 
> treatment
> > can
> > clarify this for me.
> >
> > I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that 
> we
> > dispose
> > of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper 
> per se
> > any more after the reaction of etching?
> >
> > I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after 
> gross
> > solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to 
> settling
> > ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a 
> flocculent
> > i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for 
> easy
> > removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if 
> there were
> > some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing 
> etchant
> > down
> > the drain)?
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Charlie Taylor

Well im sure you are correct but either way in the world of sewerage that
is what the issue is with diaposing used ferric chloride.
On Mar 10, 2013 11:31 PM, "Todd F. Carney / K7TFC" <k7tfc@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Neither iron nor copper are actually "heavy." Atomic number is part of the
> definition. Fe (iron): 26 / Ni (nickel): 28 / Cu (copper): 29 / Zn (zinc):
> 30. Each of these needed by all life (in the proper quantities, of course).
>
> Now, these buggers *are* heavy: Hg (mercury): 80 and Pb (lead): 82. Useful
> but nasty metals.
>
> Sorry for the quibble. Heavy metals is commonly used to mean "toxic metal
> compounds." That's okay. I need coffee. I'll feel better.
>
> 73,
>
> Todd
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Charlie Taylor <scubadogct@...
> >wrote:
>
> > in my opinon the preasence of ferric is not the issue. It is tje heavy
> > metals that is the peoblem.
> > On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage
> treatment
> > > can
> > > clarify this for me.
> > >
> > > I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we
> > > dispose
> > > of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper per
> se
> > > any more after the reaction of etching?
> > >
> > > I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after gross
> > > solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to settling
> > > ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a
> flocculent
> > > i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for easy
> > > removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there
> were
> > > some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing etchant
> > > down
> > > the drain)?
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

Yes, ferric chloride is a mess. I'm using a peroxide-hydrochloric acid
etchant that I use in very small quantities (2oz) and then toss. In old
darkroom terms, I use it "one-shot." The peroxide and acid are super cheap,
and I like the repeatability that comes with using fresh etchant every
time.

However, a while ago I became concerned about just dumping the stuff down
the drain--not because of the peroxide or acid--but because of the
dissolved copper. So I had an old 5-gal plastic bucket and I filled it with
wood shavings (I had a lot of it for now-deceased hampsters). I now dump my
2oz shots straight into that. I keep it out of the rain, but *outside*. I
just set the lid on it. I'm afraid to snap it down for fear of some kind of
build up. I'm expecting I can use this bucket, with it's current load off
shavings, for many years. Ultimately, I (or my heirs) will double or triple
bag it in its snapped-down bucket and toss it out.

Oh, I haven't done it yet, but I've gonna use a big fat permanent marker
and write "poison," "copper compounds," "Do not dispose without caution,"
or words to those effect, all over the bucket. I guess if you have kids or
snoopy dogs, you'd want to keep the bucket where they can't get to it.

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design


On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 5:43 PM, Charlie Taylor <scubadogct@...>wrote:

> Well im sure you are correct but either way in the world of sewerage that
> is what the issue is with diaposing used ferric chloride.
> On Mar 10, 2013 11:31 PM, "Todd F. Carney / K7TFC" <k7tfc@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Neither iron nor copper are actually "heavy." Atomic number is part of
> the
> > definition. Fe (iron): 26 / Ni (nickel): 28 / Cu (copper): 29 / Zn
> (zinc):
> > 30. Each of these needed by all life (in the proper quantities, of
> course).
> >
> > Now, these buggers *are* heavy: Hg (mercury): 80 and Pb (lead): 82.
> Useful
> > but nasty metals.
> >
> > Sorry for the quibble. Heavy metals is commonly used to mean "toxic metal
> > compounds." That's okay. I need coffee. I'll feel better.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Todd
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
> >
> > On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Charlie Taylor <scubadogct@...
> > >wrote:
> >
> > > in my opinon the preasence of ferric is not the issue. It is tje heavy
> > > metals that is the peoblem.
> > > On Mar 10, 2013 1:03 PM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Perhaps someone with some knowledge on public works and sewage
> > treatment
> > > > can
> > > > clarify this for me.
> > > >
> > > > I guess it must be the copper in the ferric chloride etchant that we
> > > > dispose
> > > > of that is the problem - is that correct? Is there actually copper
> per
> > se
> > > > any more after the reaction of etching?
> > > >
> > > > I'm pretty sure somewhere in the sewage treatment process, after
> gross
> > > > solids are removed, the water in the sewage system is sent to
> settling
> > > > ponds. While in the ponds ferric chloride is added to act as a
> > flocculent
> > > > i.e. an agent that causes solids to gather together in clumps for
> easy
> > > > removal. If this is the case, would it make any difference if there
> > were
> > > > some ferric chloride in the system to begin with (from flushing
> etchant
> > > > down
> > > > the drain)?
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Leon Heller

On 10/03/2013 21:20, Rick Sparber wrote:
> Leon,
>
> So is there a % concentration I should look for?

90% should be OK.

Of course, you can do the same by bubbling air through the etchant.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Eddie Stassen

On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Leon Heller <leon355@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> On 10/03/2013 21:20, Rick Sparber wrote:
> > Leon,
> >
> > So is there a % concentration I should look for?
>
> 90% should be OK.
>

I don't think you want to be anywhere near 90% H2O2, unless you are making
rocket fuel.  I had a bottle on 60% once, and it is truly evil stuff,
oxidises your skin instantaneously.  I find the 40 vol stuff (12%) you can
buy off the shelf is perfectly ok for etching purposes.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Todd Carney / K7TFC

The H2O2 I get from the drug store all say 3% on their labels. It works very well and quickly in my H2O2+HCl etchant. I've seen "food grade" H2O2 at 35% used in food processing and a number of alternative-health preparations (they actually drink the stuff--whoa!--though probably not without dilution). Google "food grade H2O2." You'll find lots of suppliers, including Amazon.

Todd, K7TFC 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Eddie Stassen <estassen@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Leon Heller <leon355@...>wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > On 10/03/2013 21:20, Rick Sparber wrote:
> > > Leon,
> > >
> > > So is there a % concentration I should look for?
> >
> > 90% should be OK.
> >
> 
> I don't think you want to be anywhere near 90% H2O2, unless you are making
> rocket fuel.  I had a bottle on 60% once, and it is truly evil stuff,
> oxidises your skin instantaneously.  I find the 40 vol stuff (12%) you can
> buy off the shelf is perfectly ok for etching purposes.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Ron Yost

> The H2O2 I get from the drug store all say 3% on their labels. It works 
> very well and quickly in my H2O2+HCl etchant. I've seen "food grade" H2O2 
> at 35% used in food processing and a number of alternative-health 
> preparations (they actually drink the stuff--whoa!--though probably not 
> without dilution). Google "food grade H2O2." You'll find lots of 
> suppliers, including Amazon.
>
> Todd, K7TFC

Sally Beauty Supply stores sell 30 and 40 vol. H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide).

Ron Yost

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

Aha! I didn't think of the hair-bleaching angle!

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design


On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ron Yost <musik42@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> > The H2O2 I get from the drug store all say 3% on their labels. It works
> > very well and quickly in my H2O2+HCl etchant. I've seen "food grade"
> H2O2
> > at 35% used in food processing and a number of alternative-health
> > preparations (they actually drink the stuff--whoa!--though probably not
> > without dilution). Google "food grade H2O2." You'll find lots of
> > suppliers, including Amazon.
> >
> > Todd, K7TFC
>
> Sally Beauty Supply stores sell 30 and 40 vol. H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide).
>
> Ron Yost
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-11 by Ron Yost

Heh! It's why I'm here. :)

Just ask them where the peroxide is. They have it labeled some cutesy name. 
;)

rY
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Aha! I didn't think of the hair-bleaching angle!
>
> 73,
>
> Todd
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ron Yost <musik42@...> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> > The H2O2 I get from the drug store all say 3% on their labels. It works
>> > very well and quickly in my H2O2+HCl etchant. I've seen "food grade"
>> H2O2
>> > at 35% used in food processing and a number of alternative-health
>> > preparations (they actually drink the stuff--whoa!--though probably not
>> > without dilution). Google "food grade H2O2." You'll find lots of
>> > suppliers, including Amazon.
>> >
>> > Todd, K7TFC
>>
>> Sally Beauty Supply stores sell 30 and 40 vol. H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide).
>>
>> Ron Yost
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-12 by smilingcat90254

Easiest disposal of CuCl2 solution.

Since you don't know how much HCl is left in the solution, the best thing to do is to use Sodium carbonate. It can be easily obtained from a pottery supply stores. Cheap. Ask a high school ceramic instructor on where to get it or ask any self respecting potter or ceramics artist. Cost is around $2-$4 per pound I think... You don't need much more than a pound for a very long time.

Pour sodium carbonate crystals into your "spent" solution. Excess sodium carbonate is fine. CuCl2 will react and precipitate out as Copper carbonate. Filter it out using coffee filter. Liquid should be excess sodium carbonate, regular table salt and water.

Dump the liquid down a drain.

Dump the Copper carbonate precipitate into trash.

If you really want to be safe!! You can reduce the copper carbonate in a furnace/kiln and heat the copper carbonate to around 200C. And it will turn black. You are decomposing the carbonate to release CO2 and what remains is Copper oxide. black powder. At this point its, very safe. But it can stain clothing.

Dumping Copper chloride solution into a bucket of wood chips makes more toxic waste, so stop it!!

Follow the directions on this post and all is well.

BTW, same procedure works for Ferric Chloride etchant. If it is used on Ferric chloride solution, I would decompose the precipitate in a furnace. to create iron oxide, (rust).

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-12 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

Thanks for the chemistry lesson. I think I'll give the sodium carbonate a
try if this checks out. As I recall from my homebrew photo developer days,
regular grocery-store "washing soda" (not baking soda) is sodium carbonate
(monohydrated). It's cheap and very easy to get! How well would this work?

Also, 200 degrees C is about 390F, so if all that outgases from heating the
remaining precipitate is CO2, is there any reason I couldn't use my kitchen
oven? Or . . . the toaster over I've dedicated for surface-mount reflow
soldering?

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design


On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 10:32 AM, smilingcat90254
<smilingcat@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> Easiest disposal of CuCl2 solution.
>
> Since you don't know how much HCl is left in the solution, the best thing
> to do is to use Sodium carbonate. It can be easily obtained from a pottery
> supply stores. Cheap. Ask a high school ceramic instructor on where to get
> it or ask any self respecting potter or ceramics artist. Cost is around
> $2-$4 per pound I think... You don't need much more than a pound for a very
> long time.
>
> Pour sodium carbonate crystals into your "spent" solution. Excess sodium
> carbonate is fine. CuCl2 will react and precipitate out as Copper
> carbonate. Filter it out using coffee filter. Liquid should be excess
> sodium carbonate, regular table salt and water.
>
> Dump the liquid down a drain.
>
> Dump the Copper carbonate precipitate into trash.
>
> If you really want to be safe!! You can reduce the copper carbonate in a
> furnace/kiln and heat the copper carbonate to around 200C. And it will turn
> black. You are decomposing the carbonate to release CO2 and what remains is
> Copper oxide. black powder. At this point its, very safe. But it can stain
> clothing.
>
> Dumping Copper chloride solution into a bucket of wood chips makes more
> toxic waste, so stop it!!
>
> Follow the directions on this post and all is well.
>
> BTW, same procedure works for Ferric Chloride etchant. If it is used on
> Ferric chloride solution, I would decompose the precipitate in a furnace.
> to create iron oxide, (rust).
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-12 by lists

In article
<CAKAK12k7kH0zQPPN6dGabrymX7PPoNoGuUUH3zK9sDZ=tZ-RVw@...>,
   Todd F. Carney / K7TFC <k7tfc@...> wrote:
> As I recall from my homebrew photo developer days, regular grocery-store
> "washing soda" (not baking soda) is sodium carbonate (monohydrated).

Correct

-- 
Stuart Winsor

Only plain text for emails
http://www.asciiribbon.org

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

2013-03-12 by Rick Sparber

Smilingcat,

I bought a 50 pound bag of calcium carbonate a few years ago so tried using
that. Seemed to foam up brown like the baking soda. 

I will keep adding calcium carbonate until it stops foaming. Don't want to
do too much at once or it will overflow. Once it is stable, I will mix in
some old cement and see if I can get something solid.

Thanks,

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of smilingcat90254
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 10:32 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: trying to do the right thing

Easiest disposal of CuCl2 solution.

Since you don't know how much HCl is left in the solution, the best thing to
do is to use Sodium carbonate. It can be easily obtained from a pottery
supply stores. Cheap. Ask a high school ceramic instructor on where to get
it or ask any self respecting potter or ceramics artist. Cost is around
$2-$4 per pound I think... You don't need much more than a pound for a very
long time.

Pour sodium carbonate crystals into your "spent" solution. Excess sodium
carbonate is fine. CuCl2 will react and precipitate out as Copper carbonate.
Filter it out using coffee filter. Liquid should be excess sodium carbonate,
regular table salt and water.

Dump the liquid down a drain.

Dump the Copper carbonate precipitate into trash.

If you really want to be safe!! You can reduce the copper carbonate in a
furnace/kiln and heat the copper carbonate to around 200C. And it will turn
black. You are decomposing the carbonate to release CO2 and what remains is
Copper oxide. black powder. At this point its, very safe. But it can stain
clothing.

Dumping Copper chloride solution into a bucket of wood chips makes more
toxic waste, so stop it!!

Follow the directions on this post and all is well.

BTW, same procedure works for Ferric Chloride etchant. If it is used on
Ferric chloride solution, I would decompose the precipitate in a furnace. to
create iron oxide, (rust).




------------------------------------

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