Re: Which paper for toner transfer, traces and silk screen
2009-04-12 by flightofharmony
... The Staples paper is OK, but not great - It takes a LOT of work to get all the paper off. One that works much better is HP Presentation paper Q2546A -
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2009-04-12 by flightofharmony
... The Staples paper is OK, but not great - It takes a LOT of work to get all the paper off. One that works much better is HP Presentation paper Q2546A -
2009-04-12 by Robert Blumer
Yes it has for many of years. commercial company s used that process. work for double side boards also. Robert
2009-04-12 by Stefan Trethan
If you are crazy enough to cut out the traces one by one with a knife then yes, it would work. Steve (the list owner) has already tried a vinyl cutter/plotter
2009-04-12 by Steve
Anyone using the Micro-Mark 83213 MINI METAL SHEAR / BRAKE to cut 1/16 FR4? The shear is at http://www.micromark.com/MINI-METAL-SHEAR-and-BRAKE,8395.html What
2009-04-12 by Philip Pemberton
... No, but it fits the first requirement -- it looks like it might work . I wouldn t use sign vinyl though -- in fact, I d try and find some form of
2009-04-12 by drmail377
There s an instructable on how to homebrew silk screen print for under $10 at: http://www.instructables.com /id/down_and_dirty_screenprinting_for_under_10/
2009-04-12 by Alessio Sangalli
Hi, I moved recently to USA and I am building up my hobby lab from scratch. I already got a laminator (I hate to use the iron, the results are so uncertain),
2009-04-12 by lilacbarn
... When I worked in the telecomms industry and we switched to SMT boards we had the same problem at first. It was at a very low level(
2009-04-10 by warrenbrayshaw
Mentioned here before was an article in Elektor Magazine on a small UV LED based exposure unit. I came across a .pdf of the article you may care to view.
2009-04-10 by Stefan Trethan
When i had jumping chips it was so bad they would pop right off the board all the way across the table. This was when i tried to dilute old no-good solder
2009-04-10 by roycepipkins
You might want to give Cash Olsen s embossing gun technique a try. His site has gone down now, but the basic idea is to use the hot plate to preheat the
2009-04-10 by Stefan Trethan
This is thermally conductive epoxy, not electrically conductive. I m not sure how either would help with the moisture problem? ST On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 8:46
2009-04-09 by michaelj22@sbcglobal.net
There is also a product by Creative Materials Inc called 122-38, a conductive epoxy which may work for this. Not sure if it will reflow but may be worth a
2009-04-09 by Stefan Trethan
No they don t. For reflow the components are rarely (if ever) glued. For wave soldering they are glued of course. ST
2009-04-08 by davada
PCB industry glues the SMT components to the board before reflow. It s a pain in the butt if the components have to be replaced, but this how the problem is
2009-04-08 by Steve
If you heard about it here, tell them Homebrew_PCBs. The special is offered to us, too. It took me a while (about a minute, ages on the internet) to figure out
2009-04-07 by Simao Cardoso
... Adam, very thanks, you cleared my doubts on this. Still, there is 2 other questions that I looking for any comment. Is ammonium persulfate reusable? like
2009-04-07 by Lez
i m a distrace fan too, i love its ease of use and good routing, even though i often have to shuffle a few tracks by hand. Sounds like a great offer he i had
2009-04-07 by mycroft2152
I ve been using DIPTRACE for a number a years now and am a big fan of it. I was previously an EAGLE user and struggled with the learning curve. The folks at
2009-04-07 by Adam Seychell
... Most people who produce ammonium persulfate would do so by electrolysis at cold temperatures with platinum anode at high current density in a solution of
2009-04-07 by dbrock178
... I use Viewmate. Just import your desired layers then when you go to print just select visible layers, factor by one, and check raster & negative.
2009-04-06 by Simao Cardoso
Hi, I have this question for long time, at the wikipedia entry of ammonium persulfate of my language is written: (quick translation) (..) Is possible to make
2009-04-06 by awakephd
My apologies, Steve -- I m the one that got us started down this detour. I shall endeavor to stay on track from now on. :) Andy
2009-04-06 by DJ Delorie
... I only print from the Gimp, and it has a function to invert the print.
2009-04-06 by Erik Knise
I would check the data sheets for your paste and your parts and see what kind of heating curve they use for re-flow soldering. Also, make sure you don t bake
2009-04-06 by Steve
Please ask electronics questions on lists such as Electronics_101. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101 Your friendly neighborhood moderator, Steve
2009-04-06 by Leon Heller
The Pulsonix software I use can only create negative plots for power planes, and I think that it s the same for most other packages. How do those of you using
2009-04-06 by serge.vereecke
Hi gnuvve, If your on linux, there is a no-cost alternative to Microsoft office, it is called Openoffice and can be downloaded from www.openoffice.org. It is a
2009-04-06 by gnuvvekaavaali
... Don t have powerpoint, but it may be a good idea for those having it. I am on Linux, so DJ s gimp settings worked well for me. Thx - GK
2009-04-04 by Jim Lewis
Thanks for all the tips. I pretty sure it s moisture in the paste. And it was much worse on a high-humidity day but not sure if that was a coincidence. Has
2009-04-04 by Erik Knise
Try using an IR heat lamp like for keeping plants or reptiles warm on the top. You need to thoroughly heat all of the parts and make sure the flux is hot
2009-04-04 by leon Heller
... From: Jim Lewis To: Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 12:12 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Jumping chips
2009-04-04 by javaguy11111
... Sounds like popcorning. It could be moisture in the chips or in the solderpaste. If the moisture is in the chips, you could try warming them at around 150F
2009-04-04 by DJ Delorie
What I do (which probably isn t best) is to put the board on a cold hotplate, then turn the hotplate on. It takes about 3 minutes to heat up to soldering
2009-04-04 by michael tenore
Yes thats the one! Mine has a red handle1 73 Mike ________________________________ From: William Alford To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2009-04-04 by Donald H Locker
If you are in the USA, you could put in for a stimulus grant for additional gravity in the area of your hot plate :) Otherwise, I d look at the preheat.
2009-04-04 by William Alford
... in the tile department of Home Depot, there is a carbide scoring tool for scoring and breaking tile backer-board. it s about 6-7$ if that s the one you re
2009-04-03 by Jim Lewis
I have a problem with SMT chips jumping off the board during reflow. I preheat for 2.5 minutes 1/4 above the hot plate and then reflow 1.5 minutes directly on
2009-04-03 by Stefan Trethan
I agree. Any type of shear (even handheld tinsnips) have worked better for me than most saws. A fine toothed carbide blade in a circular saw will make the
2009-04-03 by thebrit49
Hi all, Just convinced my local PCB manufacturer to sell me a couple of sheets of Pyralux, so I m going to try making my first flexible PCB. I usually start
2009-04-03 by gnuvvekaavaali
... That did the trick!! Thanks much. - GK
2009-04-03 by DJ Delorie
In gimp, Image- Print Size, and set the resolution to 600 dpi. Then, when you print, make sure the image size scrollbar at the bottom of the print dialog is
2009-04-03 by thebrit49
... I usually save the GIF file, drop it into PowerPoint or similar, then re-size. I just tried it with the GIF you mentioned at it worked just fine. TheBrit49
2009-04-03 by gnuvvekaavaali
Folks, I am looking at making the Easy Nixie clock here - http://elbastl.sweb.cz/clock.htm The PCB design is provided as a 600 dpi gif image. gimp says the
2009-04-02 by Tony Smith
Eh, ideas are cheap. No-one has done it before because it s too hard to do. It s a lot of work even to do it with a few suppliers and a few hundred parts,
2009-04-02 by thebrit49
... Sheet metal shears are the only way to go! I tried scoring, hacksaws, drilling perf holes, even heavy paper guillotines (which despite what I read on
2009-04-02 by Harvey White
... Fiberglass is softer than metal, but you do have to be careful since the glass fibers are tough to cut through. I do know that mine (the 30 inch model) is
2009-04-02 by DJ Delorie
... Yes. ... On other shears, they break the max thickness down by type - steel, copper, aluminum. Softer metals allow a thicker piece. One would assume that
2009-04-02 by michael tenore
What thickness of board are you talking about? I have great success cutting 1/32 board with a carbide scoring tool from Home DEpot ($7)! I use a good quality
2009-04-02 by Steve
Is the purpose of the shear to cut PCB s? It s instruction manual says it will shear up to 20ga metal, which is 0.035in. Seems that if I were to get a shear