Direct Inkjet Printing board prep
2007-04-12 by rmustakos
I m trying to do direct inkjet printing on copper. I ve got the setup working, but everything I have tryed with surface prep has not worked. Has anyone
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2007-04-12 by rmustakos
I m trying to do direct inkjet printing on copper. I ve got the setup working, but everything I have tryed with surface prep has not worked. Has anyone
2007-04-12 by Dave Miller
... If it was a new product being introduced today they would probably have to label it as hazardus, and may not be able to introduce it at all, however, it
2007-04-12 by Leon
... From: Dale Chatham To: Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Newbie
2007-04-12 by Dale Chatham
Or, grocery store (Drano).
2007-04-12 by pgdion1
Laser Printer & gloves is a great start I do both Toner transfer and the photo method (as discussed here ... I do the positive process as it is a little easier
2007-04-12 by izzo47
I guess...all I know is if you tape your design to the copper and if you use the hot iron method like I do it peels right off. When I etched the board,
2007-04-12 by Leon
... From: Adam Seychell To: Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 6:26 AM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:
2007-04-12 by gsi11135
Hey everyone! I finally went ahead and set up a rudimentary wiki to place much of the information scattered about concerning hacking printers and their
2007-04-12 by Andrew
... OK - so the stuff I buy from them is just Na2CO3. Will give some stuff from the super market a try then.
2007-04-12 by Russell Shaw
... Correction: It was 1% Na2CO3 sodium carbonate i use for negative resist.
2007-04-12 by Adam Seychell
... Positive resists use a much stronger alkaline developer, like 1% NaOH or Na2SO3. Negative dryfilm resist require a much gentler alkaline like 1% Na2CO3. I
2007-04-12 by Andrew
... Does anyone use sodium silcate? I beleive that is what is in the little packets I get from computronics.
2007-04-12 by Russell Shaw
... I use 10% Na2CO3 sodium carbonate for the developing. Unlike NaOH, it s much less reactive to skin.
2007-04-11 by Len Warner
... It is more hazardous in handling than hydrochloric acid: because it not volatile - so un-neutralized splashes get more concentrated as they dry, rather
2007-04-11 by Adam Seychell
... Spent many hours experimenting with tin etch resists. Ultimate finding was you *need* a alkaline ammonia etchant. Ammonium persulfate will attack tin
2007-04-11 by Len Warner
Newbies should also note that in this group we are often a bit hit-and-miss, sometimes going on slapdash, in our reagent concentrations... ... Not the first
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
... Can the liquid tin chemical dip be used instead of electroplating? ... Bummer.
2007-04-11 by Andrew
... Had a look at the supplier. Mine is an ET-20 http://www.computronics.com.au/kinsten/tools/ I actually have 2 of them and I checked them both out last
2007-04-11 by guja
1) I electroplating: (prepared) vias with copper and (exposed) traces with more copper. II electroplating: exposed copper surfaces (vias, thrupads, traces)
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
... So, this idea is no good with FeCl, or with liquid tin ? That kinda limits it. But I suppose if you can electroplate a via, you can electroplate the tin
2007-04-11 by Myc Holmes
Take a look at Diptrace. It s much easier to learn than EAGLE and the free version does not limit board size. The limit is 250 pins in a desgn. Works well for
2007-04-11 by guja
tin-ELECTROplated-mask is suitable (only) for ammonium-persulfate-etching. (NH4)2S2O8 DJ Delorie wrote: More random thoughts... I was thinking
2007-04-11 by Stefan Trethan
... There is an etchant made from sulphuric acid and H2O2 much like CuCl (only of course copper sulphate). Sulphuric acid would have some neat qualities
2007-04-11 by Philip Pemberton
... If that s anything like the Fujifilm tape we use on the film processor at work, it s a thick-ish blue plastic tape with a silicone-based adhesive on the
2007-04-11 by Leon
... From: jusdebra To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:17 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:
2007-04-11 by jusdebra
OMG, my dad is a Dave Miller. Almost freaked me out when I saw it. I was thinking, Is he in this group? Anyway, you guys have me confused again. Some
2007-04-11 by izzo47
Went to 3 RS for Ferric chloride all OUT.... Reading old msgs, I finally found that Lowe s had it, a Gal was 7 bucks. I bought some regular 3% Hydrogen
2007-04-11 by Stefan Trethan
... I would be impressed with 2 mil lines allright. At least with an air agitated vertical etcher using CuCl i don t think it ll work. I don t doubt it is
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
More random thoughts... I was thinking about plated-through holes and how big fabs do them. You drill, plate the holes, *then* etch. They use a tin
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
... Hmm... I wonder if the supermarket carries DOT Class 8 Corrosive stickers :-P
2007-04-11 by Russell Shaw
... 10% Na2CO3 is used for negative developer and doesn t gas, even when i heat it to 25-30degC in the microwave. 10% NaOH is used for negative resist
2007-04-11 by derekhawkins
... I found the artwork since the last post. 6/6 artwork snippet; http://upload.pbase.com/image/77013545/original 6/6 etched board snippet from above;
2007-04-11 by Dave Miller
... Check out the developing and striping solutions you can mix up on Think and Tinker s website: http://thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/consumbl/devmix.htm
2007-04-11 by derekhawkins
... Check out messages 14958 and 14969. I ve always favored the smallest BE (ET-10) mainly because 6 X4 is my standard board size and you need half as much
2007-04-11 by Leon
... From: DJ Delorie To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 4:46 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
2007-04-11 by derekhawkins
... Yep, you ll keel over on the first whiff.
2007-04-11 by derekhawkins
... Look at the outside edge of the outermost track in the link below. The only real issue here is the pronounced lower printer resolution on tracks
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
... But are they tame? I mean, do they outgas during use, do I need vent fans, special cleanup rules, etc? FeCl is messy, but not dangerous that way, and
2007-04-11 by Leon
... From: DJ Delorie To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 2:09 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
2007-04-11 by Russell Shaw
... Dilute Na2CO3 (from pool shop), and dilute NaOH. ... Then stop eating and cleaning;)
2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie
... Are the chemicals rather tame these days too? I wouldn t mind tring out photoetch, but I m not a big fan of having lots of chemicals in the house.
2007-04-11 by Russell Shaw
... I had a quick look in the gutenprint source code and can see that every possible parameter you d want to change could be done (for epson, look in
2007-04-11 by Andrew
... Again sub par compared to Mr Hawkins photos but the best I was able to get in several attempts. I must say you don t have a lot of depth of feild this
2007-04-11 by Andrew
... Slow the print head down or make it do 12 passes (one for each bank). Probably going to require major firmware hacking for either method I think.
2007-04-11 by Andrew
... Russell, Can you make the printer print from the same bank of nozzels every pass? If it doesn t does it alter the offset on where it fires a bank so they
2007-04-11 by Russell Shaw
... Using a Stylus 460 printer driver on linux (CUPS printing), i ve got it on a mode where a 50mm long pcb will take atleast 10 mins to print. The resolution
2007-04-11 by Adam Seychell
... Unfortunately all inkjet printers seem to suffer the same problem. Since its invisible to the naked eye , printer manufactures are unlikely to bother
2007-04-11 by Leon
... From: Adam Seychell To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs]
2007-04-11 by Leon
... From: DJ Delorie To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
2007-04-11 by Adam Seychell
... Because from past experience with bubble etching there is anywhere up to a 2:1 ratio between fastest and slowest etch rates across the board. This _does_