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Homebrew PCBs

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Direct Inkjet Printing board prep

2007-04-12 by rmustakos

I m trying to do direct inkjet printing on copper. I ve got the setup working, but everything I have tryed with surface prep has not worked. Has anyone

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-12 by Dave Miller

... If it was a new product being introduced today they would probably have to label it as hazardus, and may not be able to introduce it at all, however, it

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-12 by pgdion1

Laser Printer & gloves is a great start I do both Toner transfer and the photo method (as discussed here ... I do the positive process as it is a little easier

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Printer Hack wiki

2007-04-12 by gsi11135

Hey everyone! I finally went ahead and set up a rudimentary wiki to place much of the information scattered about concerning hacking printers and their

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-12 by Andrew

... OK - so the stuff I buy from them is just Na2CO3. Will give some stuff from the super market a try then.

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-12 by Adam Seychell

... Positive resists use a much stronger alkaline developer, like 1% NaOH or Na2SO3. Negative dryfilm resist require a much gentler alkaline like 1% Na2CO3. I

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-12 by Andrew

... Does anyone use sodium silcate? I beleive that is what is in the little packets I get from computronics.

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Len Warner

... It is more hazardous in handling than hydrochloric acid: because it not volatile - so un-neutralized splashes get more concentrated as they dry, rather

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] liquid tin as mask?

2007-04-11 by Adam Seychell

... Spent many hours experimenting with tin etch resists. Ultimate finding was you *need* a alkaline ammonia etchant. Ammonium persulfate will attack tin

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Len Warner

Newbies should also note that in this group we are often a bit hit-and-miss, sometimes going on slapdash, in our reagent concentrations... ... Not the first

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] liquid tin as mask?

2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie

... So, this idea is no good with FeCl, or with liquid tin ? That kinda limits it. But I suppose if you can electroplate a via, you can electroplate the tin

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Myc Holmes

Take a look at Diptrace. It s much easier to learn than EAGLE and the free version does not limit board size. The limit is 250 pins in a desgn. Works well for

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Stefan Trethan

... There is an etchant made from sulphuric acid and H2O2 much like CuCl (only of course copper sulphate). Sulphuric acid would have some neat qualities

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: who does SMD ?

2007-04-11 by Stefan Trethan

... I would be impressed with 2 mil lines allright. At least with an air agitated vertical etcher using CuCl i don t think it ll work. I don t doubt it is

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liquid tin as mask?

2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie

More random thoughts... I was thinking about plated-through holes and how big fabs do them. You drill, plate the holes, *then* etch. They use a tin

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Russell Shaw

... 10% Na2CO3 is used for negative developer and doesn t gas, even when i heat it to 25-30degC in the microwave. 10% NaOH is used for negative resist

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Re: Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by Dave Miller

... Check out the developing and striping solutions you can mix up on Think and Tinker s website: http://thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/consumbl/devmix.htm

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie

... But are they tame? I mean, do they outgas during use, do I need vent fans, special cleanup rules, etc? FeCl is messy, but not dangerous that way, and

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie questions

2007-04-11 by DJ Delorie

... Are the chemicals rather tame these days too? I wouldn t mind tring out photoetch, but I m not a big fan of having lots of chemicals in the house.

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