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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-16 by Jerry Olson

Hi Steve,

I do this all the time and get fantastic prints up to and including
13x19. As sharp as film.

The sharper your lenses, the sharper your prints, just as in regular photography.

I have a 12x18 photo of my cat's face that is every bit as sharp as a
velvia scanned slide. Taken with the
Canon Macro 50mm lens, one of the sharpest lenses ever made.

Genuine fractals is the way to go. It's better than photoshops upsampling.

Jerry
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
> 8-bit,
> 17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
> will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
> one see a problem with this approach?
> 
> Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
> 
> How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
> 
>  Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-16 by Jerry Olson

Steve, I forgot to tell you, you MUST sharpen your D-30 images. they can
take a LOT of sharpening before any artifacts begin to show. This of
course is true of all digital cameras in this price range. Best
sharpener I've seen yet is KPT's Equalizer sharpen tool that comes with
version 6 of KPT'S Power Tools. Use the Boundary sharpen portion, not
the equalizer. Very easy to do.

Johnny Deadman also has a set that is about as good. 

Jerry





steven0356 wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
> 8-bit,
> 17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
> will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
> one see a problem with this approach?
> 
> Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
> 
> How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
> 
>  Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-16 by Austin Franklin

Hi Jerry,

> I do this all the time and get fantastic prints up to and including
> 13x19. As sharp as film.

Sharpness has never been an issue...but detail is.

> The sharper your lenses, the sharper your prints, just as in
> regular photography.

Actually, that's not really true.  Perhaps you might want to read this paper
by Schneider WRT this topic:

http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/white_papers/optics_for_digital_photogra
phy.pdf

Basically, you want the lense to be as sharp as the sensor array, and too
much sharpness actually causes a DECREASE in image sharpness.

> I have a 12x18 photo of my cat's face that is every bit as sharp as a
> velvia scanned slide. Taken with the
> Canon Macro 50mm lens, one of the sharpest lenses ever made.

There is a low pass filter over the cameras sensor array, which limits the
resolution to the sensor...so no matter how sharp your lense is, it is only
as sharp (as far as the sensor is concerned) as the filter will let it be.

If you want to know more, I'm happy to discuss it.

Regards,

Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Michael Kravit

Steven,

I have been doing a bit of digital shooting with my Nikon D1x. I have not had it lond and only used it a couple of times. I am primarily a 4x5 shooter and breaking old habits is tough.

But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for 11x14 prints. Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I use GF to rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not all that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start with in order to get good results.

The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. Digital prints made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready to do a project whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6 (T-Max 100) and digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360 dpi at 16x20 and then printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What we are looking for is the ability of the digital camera to produce smooth rich tonally competent images and see how they compare with the film versions.

I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: steven0356 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
  Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
  8-bit,  
  17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I 
  will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any 
  one see a problem with this approach?

  Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film? 

  How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?

  Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?




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  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

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  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  - Complete your Yahoo profile.
  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

> But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for 11x14 prints. 

ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
this camera AND the Canon D-30!

Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I use GF to
rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not all
that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
with in order to get good results.

I have a closeup of my cat's face that is 13x19 and is every bit as
sharp as scanned velvia film!

You MUST sharpen ALL digital images, and those taken with under $5000
need a LOT of sharpening. They will take it with no problems. How do you
sharpen your images?

> The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. 

That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! Does this work
on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
infrared light?

Would the Canon D30 do it? 

How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo? 

Jerry


Digital prints made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready
to do a project whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6
(T-Max 100) and digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360
dpi at 16x20 and then printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What
we are looking for is the ability of the digital camera to produce
smooth rich tonally competent images and see how they compare with the
film versions.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.
> 
> Mike
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: steven0356
>   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
>   Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
> 
>   I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
>   8-bit,
>   17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
>   will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
>   one see a problem with this approach?
> 
>   Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
> 
>   How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
> 
>   Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
> 
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>               ADVERTISEMENT
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
>   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
>   Please follow these basic guidelines:
>   - Include your full name with your message.
>   - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
>   - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
>   - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
>   - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
>   - Complete your Yahoo profile.
>   - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
>   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
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> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Austin, I have 2 prints of my cat, one with the D-30 and one with the
regular EOS1n. Both were shot with the Canon 50mm Macro. The EOS 1n film
was Kodacolor Gold 100. Side by Side the prints are damn near identical
as far as detail and sharpness goes.  Colors are similar, very similar,
but not perfectly identical.k

You are absolutely correct if you are referring to landscape
photography. The detail the sensor captures just can't cut it as well as
film. But for Closeups, If you didn't tell the viewer which was which,
He couldn't tell the difference, except the inkjet print is smoother, as
digital is totally grainless.

Jerry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by scho_2000

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Jerry Olson 
<jerryolson@r...> wrote:

> The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking 
an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. 
> 
> That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! 
Does this work
> on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
> infrared light?
> 
> Would the Canon D30 do it? 
> 
> How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo? 

Jerry,

The D30 will do infrared, but the metering tends to underexpose 
by about 3-4 stops, so you have to use manual exposure (about 
3-4 sec at f/11, ISO 100 in bright sun is a good starting point).  
There are some example IR images taken with the D30 here:
<http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&mess
age=1755483> 

Carl

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

> He couldn't tell the difference, except the inkjet print is smoother, as
> digital is totally grainless.

Hi Jerry,

Digital does have "grain"...but it's called pixelation.  If you blow it up
enough, you'll surely see it!

Austin

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

> ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
> this camera AND the Canon D-30!

Well, I take issue what that.  The D-30 gives you 2160 x 1440.  That means
you are printing at 113 PPI to the printer (on the long side).  Now, you CAN
interpolate the file and get a bigger file (and hence more PPI to the
printer)...that has NO more detail, but is still sharp...as I've said,
sharpness isn't the issue, it's detail.  Yep, it'll look "good", but
compared to the same shot with film, it just won't hold up.

Another thing to realize, is these one shot digital cameras use four sensor
elements to get the color information...so the array contains 25% red
sensors, 25% blue sensors and 50% green sensors (two for contrast
enhancement)...so you REALLY don't get N megaPIXELS of color information
from the sensor, but substantially less (arguably 25%)...and the color
information is interpolated to give you the N megapixels from the camera.

In my opinion it is very misleading for the vendors to claim they have an N
megaPIXEL sensor...when the sensor isn't giving you "real" color pixels,
since a color pixel consists of all three color values (R, G and B), and
after all, these ARE color cameras!

Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Michael Kravit

Jerry,

Like I said, I am new to digital shooting. Actually, I have not owned a 35mm camera in a couple of years.  I had no idea that digital camera images needed that much sharpening. How much do you sharpen. I think that I was doing it much the way I do it with film scans. As little as possible or none at all.

Infrared is cool. You shoot it with the 87 filter and then once downloaded you convert to grayscale with channel mixer just like a color scan to grayscale. You can also set the camera to B/W mode and then the infrared previews look incredible and not red.

From what I read the D30 will do it also.

I bought an 4x4 87 polyester filter from Lee along with a frame. It fits my Lee filter holder.

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jerry Olson 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally



  > But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for 11x14 prints. 

  ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
  this camera AND the Canon D-30!

  Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I use GF to
  rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not all
  that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
  with in order to get good results.

  I have a closeup of my cat's face that is 13x19 and is every bit as
  sharp as scanned velvia film!

  You MUST sharpen ALL digital images, and those taken with under $5000
  need a LOT of sharpening. They will take it with no problems. How do you
  sharpen your images?

  > The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. 

  That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! Does this work
  on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
  infrared light?

  Would the Canon D30 do it? 

  How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo? 

  Jerry


  Digital prints made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready
  to do a project whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6
  (T-Max 100) and digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360
  dpi at 16x20 and then printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What
  we are looking for is the ability of the digital camera to produce
  smooth rich tonally competent images and see how they compare with the
  film versions.
  > 
  > I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.
  > 
  > Mike
  >   ----- Original Message -----
  >   From: steven0356
  >   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  >   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
  >   Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
  > 
  >   I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
  >   8-bit,
  >   17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
  >   will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
  >   one see a problem with this approach?
  > 
  >   Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
  > 
  >   How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
  > 
  >   Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
  > 
  >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
  >               ADVERTISEMENT
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  >   Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
  > 
  >   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
  > 
  >   Please follow these basic guidelines:
  >   - Include your full name with your message.
  >   - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  >   - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
  >   - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  >   - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  >   - Complete your Yahoo profile.
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  > 
  >   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
  > 
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > 
  > 
  > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
  > 
  > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
  > 
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  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

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  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Michael Kravit

Carl, that makes sense. On my D1x I start at f/16 for 6 seconds at EI-125 in bright sunlight.

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: scho_2000 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 9:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Jerry Olson 
  <jerryolson@r...> wrote:

  > The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking 
  an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. 
  > 
  > That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! 
  Does this work
  > on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
  > infrared light?
  > 
  > Would the Canon D30 do it? 
  > 
  > How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo? 

  Jerry,

  The D30 will do infrared, but the metering tends to underexpose 
  by about 3-4 stops, so you have to use manual exposure (about 
  3-4 sec at f/11, ISO 100 in bright sun is a good starting point).  
  There are some example IR images taken with the D30 here:
  <http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&mess
  age=1755483> 

  Carl



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  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

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  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Alessandro Pardi

Michael,
 
I've just ordered a Mamiya 7 II with 65mm, my first go at medium format, and
am therefore very curious about your project of comparing medium and large
format scans to the current state of the art in digital (the only thing I
know is that a D1x is WAY more expensive than a MF body and scanner). Please
share your results with us.
 
Thanks,
Alessandro Pardi
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kravit [mailto:michael.kravit@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: giovedì 17 gennaio 2002 01.33
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


Steven,

I have been doing a bit of digital shooting with my Nikon D1x. I have not
had it lond and only used it a couple of times. I am primarily a 4x5 shooter
and breaking old habits is tough.

But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW
files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for
11x14 prints. Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I
use GF to rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not
all that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
with in order to get good results.

The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87
filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. Digital prints
made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready to do a project
whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6 (T-Max 100) and
digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360 dpi at 16x20 and then
printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What we are looking for is the
ability of the digital camera to produce smooth rich tonally competent
images and see how they compare with the film versions.

I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I
have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at
rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.

Mike
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: steven0356 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
  Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
  8-bit,  
  17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I 
  will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any 
  one see a problem with this approach?

  Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film? 

  How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?

  Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?




        Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
              ADVERTISEMENT
             
       
       

  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint> 

  Please follow these basic guidelines:
  - Include your full name with your message.
  - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
them short.
  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  - Complete your Yahoo profile.
  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
resources on the homepage. 




  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Pics4U@en.com

On 16 Jan 2002, at 23:12, Michael Kravit wrote:

> Carl, that makes sense. On my D1x I start at f/16 for 6 seconds at
> EI-125 in bright sunlight.
> 
> Mike

Mike, why f/16 for such a long exposure? Why not 
something more sensible like f/8 at 1 second or so?  IMHO 
and based on previous experience, movement at such long 
exposures outweighs any depth of field gain. I have been 
using ISO 400 on my D1X and have been quite satisfied 
with the results. To add a bit of grain like traditional IR film, 
I've even used ISO 1600/3200.

Greg

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Carl, The search engine isn't working, do you know what page those
images are on?

Once you've taken a photo with the red filter, I assume you'd have a
very red photo. How do you change it to Black and white infrared?

Is an 87 filter the opaque one, or just a very deep red?

Thanks

Jerry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Mike, the D30 doesn't have a black and white mode.  Is the 87 filter
opaque, or deep red?

I use Kai's Power Tools "Equalizer" sharpen tool from version 6. Use the
"Boundary sharpen mode", not the equalizer mode. Very quick and easy to
do. there are only 2 sliders and you can see the results in a very large
magnified window to see exactly how far to sharpen without getting
artifacts. You will be amazed at how much you can sharpen the D30 or Dx
images before any artifacts appear.

Jerry





Michael Kravit wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Jerry,
> 
> Like I said, I am new to digital shooting. Actually, I have not owned a 35mm camera in a couple of years.  I had no idea that digital camera images needed that much sharpening. How much do you sharpen. I think that I was doing it much the way I do it with film scans. As little as possible or none at all.
> 
> Infrared is cool. You shoot it with the 87 filter and then once downloaded you convert to grayscale with channel mixer just like a color scan to grayscale. You can also set the camera to B/W mode and then the infrared previews look incredible and not red.
> 
> >From what I read the D30 will do it also.
> 
> I bought an 4x4 87 polyester filter from Lee along with a frame. It fits my Lee filter holder.
> 
> Mike
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Jerry Olson
>   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:52 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
> 
>   > But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for 11x14 prints.
> 
>   ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
>   this camera AND the Canon D-30!
> 
>   Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I use GF to
>   rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not all
>   that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
>   with in order to get good results.
> 
>   I have a closeup of my cat's face that is 13x19 and is every bit as
>   sharp as scanned velvia film!
> 
>   You MUST sharpen ALL digital images, and those taken with under $5000
>   need a LOT of sharpening. They will take it with no problems. How do you
>   sharpen your images?
> 
>   > The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared.
> 
>   That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! Does this work
>   on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
>   infrared light?
> 
>   Would the Canon D30 do it?
> 
>   How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo?
> 
>   Jerry
> 
>   Digital prints made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready
>   to do a project whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6
>   (T-Max 100) and digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360
>   dpi at 16x20 and then printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What
>   we are looking for is the ability of the digital camera to produce
>   smooth rich tonally competent images and see how they compare with the
>   film versions.
>   >
>   > I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.
>   >
>   > Mike
>   >   ----- Original Message -----
>   >   From: steven0356
>   >   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>   >   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
>   >   Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
>   >
>   >   I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
>   >   8-bit,
>   >   17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
>   >   will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
>   >   one see a problem with this approach?
>   >
>   >   Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
>   >
>   >   How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
>   >
>   >   Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
>   >
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Yes, but not in a 13x19 image from a D-30 camera!

Jerry




Austin Franklin wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> > He couldn't tell the difference, except the inkjet print is smoother, as
> > digital is totally grainless.
> 
> Hi Jerry,
> 
> Digital does have "grain"...but it's called pixelation.  If you blow it up
> enough, you'll surely see it!
> 
> Austin
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Austin Franklin wrote:
> 
> > ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
> > this camera AND the Canon D-30!
> 
> Well, I take issue what that.  The D-30 gives you 2160 x 1440.  That means
> you are printing at 113 PPI to the printer (on the long side).  Now, you CAN
> interpolate the file and get a bigger file (and hence more PPI to the
> printer)...that has NO more detail, but is still sharp...as I've said,
> sharpness isn't the issue, it's detail.  Yep, it'll look "good", but
> compared to the same shot with film, it just won't hold up.

Austin, it DOES hold up. You'll just have to try it.  You have to
sharpen a lot, but the D30 image can take it. Also, I use Genuine
Fractals to get that image up to 36 megabytes, with practically no loss
in quality. 
The proof is in the print.  Also the D30 pixels are much larger than
most other camera's pixels.

I have a print from a listmember that is 13x19 inches taken on his Nikon
DX. The D30 can make sharper prints than the one he sent me.

I'm no technician, all I can do is compare the prints, and I think the
D30 can easily equal film in prints to 13x19.

(12x18 image area).  Again, Not far away landscape images. I'm speaking
closeups here.

Jerry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Derek Clarke

An 87 filter is mainly transparent to infra-red, but does allow a very small 
amount of red light through.

It depends upon the camera just what you get. It's not just red, because the 
green and blue filters on the image sensor are generally just as transparent 
to infra-red as the red one, so the image is nearly monochrome.

On my Canon Pro 70 it yields a perfectly monochrome image, this camera has a 
CMYG filter on its CCD and all four colours seem equally transparent to 
infra-red.

Other cameras with RGBG filters may yield slightly reddish images as that 
visible red component has a slight effect.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Thursday 17 Jan 2002 4:29 pm, Jerry Olson wrote:
> Carl, The search engine isn't working, do you know what page those
> images are on?
>
> Once you've taken a photo with the red filter, I assume you'd have a
> very red photo. How do you change it to Black and white infrared?
>
> Is an 87 filter the opaque one, or just a very deep red?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jerry
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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>
>
>
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Carl Schofield

Jerry, Here are links to the images.
Out of camera, no adjustments:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675.jpg
RGB mode, autolevels:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675_2.jpg
Greyscale converted:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675g.jpg

This test image was shot at ISO 100, RAW mode, mirror lock-up enabled, long
exposure noise reduction ON, manual exposure mode, 3 sec at f/11.  The
filter was a Hoya R72 (Wratten 89B) which is a deep red filter that leaks a
little visible light as well as passing all of the near infrared.  The
autoleveled RGB image shows this mixture of visible and infrared light.  I
either convert to greyscale using the lightness channel in LAB mode or use
the channel mixer.

Carl
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@...>
Reply-To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:29:51 -0600
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


Carl, The search engine isn't working, do you know what page those
images are on?

Once you've taken a photo with the red filter, I assume you'd have a
very red photo. How do you change it to Black and white infrared?

Is an 87 filter the opaque one, or just a very deep red?

Thanks

Jerry

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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Thanks Carl, very much!  I can hardly wait to try this.

Jerry
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> This test image was shot at ISO 100, RAW mode, mirror lock-up enabled, long
> exposure noise reduction ON, manual exposure mode, 3 sec at f/11.  The
> filter was a Hoya R72 (Wratten 89B) which is a deep red filter that leaks a
> little visible light as well as passing all of the near infrared.  The
> autoleveled RGB image shows this mixture of visible and infrared light.  I
> either convert to greyscale using the lightness channel in LAB mode or use
> the channel mixer.
> 
> Carl
>

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

Hi Jerry,

> Austin Franklin wrote:
> >
> > > ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19
> images from
> > > this camera AND the Canon D-30!
> >
> > Well, I take issue what that.  The D-30 gives you 2160 x 1440.
> That means
> > you are printing at 113 PPI to the printer (on the long side).
> Now, you CAN
> > interpolate the file and get a bigger file (and hence more PPI to the
> > printer)...that has NO more detail, but is still sharp...as I've said,
> > sharpness isn't the issue, it's detail.  Yep, it'll look "good", but
> > compared to the same shot with film, it just won't hold up.
>
> Austin, it DOES hold up. You'll just have to try it.

I have tried it many times...the detail is not there.  That doesn't mean
what's there isn't sharp mind you.

> The proof is in the print.

You are right.

> Also the D30 pixels are much larger than
> most other camera's pixels.

That really has nothing to do with camera resolution.  Whether the pixels
are 1" square of 5u square, a 3M element sensor IS a 3M element sensor.  The
advantage the larger pixels give is less EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference)
and therefore a cleaner image with less noise.

> I have a print from a listmember that is 13x19 inches taken on his Nikon
> DX. The D30 can make sharper prints than the one he sent me.

But...as I've said, sharpness isn't what is at issue.  A line, no matter how
wide, can still be equally as sharp...a 1 foot wide line can be just as
sharp as a .0001" wide line.  I have 640x480 digital cameras that give you a
perfectly sharp image...no matter how much you blow it up...but it
pixelates...but it's still tack sharp!

> I'm no technician, all I can do is compare the prints, and I think the
> D30 can easily equal film in prints to 13x19.

I am an engineer (who happens to design digital imaging equipment), and I've
spent years testing this stuff, and yes, I've tested the D-30 and may other
much higher end digital cameras.  What you are seeing in a 13x19 print
that's been interpolated in primarily edge detail (what you call sharpness),
but there is far far less image detail than with film.  Now, that may not
matter to some...and for that purpose, it's a fine camera, but for
some...missing that detail just won't work.

> (12x18 image area).  Again, Not far away landscape images. I'm speaking
> closeups here.

A close-up can still have a lot of detail...just like a landscape can.  It
is very image dependant.  Don't think I'm at all saying that the D-30 isn't
a great camera, in fact it is...but it has limitations, and some are masked
by not quite knowing what it is you're looking at (edge detail vs was I call
image detail)...and as I said, that may or may not matter to some.

Regards,

Austin

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

Jerry,

As I've pointed out, you only get ~100 PPI from a D-30 for a 13x19 image.
Interpolation is pretty much required to visually eliminate pixelation...but
that doesn't mean the original image doesn't have it!

Technically, you could interpolate any sized image to get any sized
enlargement and visually eliminate pixelation...but the issue with
interpolation is it "makes up" data where none existed...and because the
data isn't there in the first place, it never will be.

Austin
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Yes, but not in a 13x19 image from a D-30 camera!
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
> Austin Franklin wrote:
> >
> > > He couldn't tell the difference, except the inkjet print is
> smoother, as
> > > digital is totally grainless.
> >
> > Hi Jerry,
> >
> > Digital does have "grain"...but it's called pixelation.  If you
> blow it up
> > enough, you'll surely see it!
> >
> > Austin
>
>

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by a_pettit_jr

The pixel size may have little to do with Resolution, but
it sure is a Major factor in overall image Quality.

The size of a pixel element determines :

1) Sensitivity in the % of the sensor's active area to 
the inactive needed for electrical innerconnects.

2) The dynamic range in that the the electron well depth is directly
proportional to pixel size. The small sensor elements may have
well depths of only 12000 electrons. That is the secret of the
Nikon digital camera quality as compared to the smaller ( and less 
expensive ) digicams. A large chip effectively equates to 
on board averaging and much less noise grain. I believe a
9um pixel is required to allow a 64000 electron ( 16 bit equivalent )
well depth.

Pixel size is a most siginficant factor in overall CCD
performance.

Best,
Alex P

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > Also the D30 pixels are much larger than
> > most other camera's pixels.
> 
> That really has nothing to do with camera resolution.  Whether the pixels
> are 1" square of 5u square, a 3M element sensor IS a 3M element sensor.  The
> advantage the larger pixels give is less EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference)
> and therefore a cleaner image with less noise.
> 
> Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Austin, then a question comes to mind. If you see in front of you 2
prints of a cat, close up, taken with the sharpest macro lens available,
and you and everyone else who sees it tells you that the quality is as
good as film, what am I to believe? I don't see any lack of detail in
the digital print compared to the film print, and both are very sharp. I
actually prefer the digital print.  what am I missing here? I'm printing
the digital at 300 DPI, and it was rezzed up in Genuine Fractals, which
is an amazing tool!

Jerry
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> As I've pointed out, you only get ~100 PPI from a D-30 for a 13x19 image.
> Interpolation is pretty much required to visually eliminate pixelation...but
> that doesn't mean the original image doesn't have it!
> 
> Technically, you could interpolate any sized image to get any sized
> enlargement and visually eliminate pixelation...but the issue with
> interpolation is it "makes up" data where none existed...and because the
> data isn't there in the first place, it never will be.
> 
> Austin
> 
> > Yes, but not in a 13x19 image from a D-30 camera!
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Austin Franklin wrote:
> > >
> > > > He couldn't tell the difference, except the inkjet print is
> > smoother, as
> > > > digital is totally grainless.
> > >
> > > Hi Jerry,
> > >
> > > Digital does have "grain"...but it's called pixelation.  If you
> > blow it up
> > > enough, you'll surely see it!
> > >
> > > Austin
> >
> >
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
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> 
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RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

> 
> The pixel size may have little to do with Resolution, but
> it sure is a Major factor in overall image Quality.

Hi Alex,

Isn't that what "therefore a cleaner image with less noise" means?

Austin
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> 
> > > Also the D30 pixels are much larger than
> > > most other camera's pixels.
> > 
> > That really has nothing to do with camera resolution.  Whether 
> the pixels
> > are 1" square of 5u square, a 3M element sensor IS a 3M element 
> sensor.  The
> > advantage the larger pixels give is less EMI (Electro Magnetic 
> Interference)
> > and therefore a cleaner image with less noise.
> > 
> > Austin

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Austin Franklin

Hi Jerry,

> Austin, then a question comes to mind. If you see in front of you 2
> prints of a cat, close up, taken with the sharpest macro lens available,

...as I've said, the sharpest lense won't give you any advantage with a
digital camera.

> and you and everyone else who sees it tells you that the quality is as
> good as film, what am I to believe?

Well, those that think it is, believe it is!  Since I haven't seen it, I
can't tell you much about it.

> I don't see any lack of detail in
> the digital print compared to the film print, and both are very sharp.

I am sure they are both very sharp!  I don't believe the detail is the same
though.

> I
> actually prefer the digital print.  what am I missing here?

The difference between sharpness and detail...  See the links Mark Carpenter
posted and that should give you an idea of what I have been talking about.

> I'm printing
> the digital at 300 DPI, and it was rezzed up in Genuine Fractals, which
> is an amazing tool!

Yes it is!

Regards,

Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Jerry Olson

Austin, I did see Marks links, and the difference in my 2 images are
nowhere near that great. As I said, I do not seem to see less detail in
the digital shot. There was a tremendous amount of difference in his
shots. I assume these were huge blowups, as none of my images are
anywhere near that blurry, even at 3 feet!

Jerry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by a_pettit_jr

Yes, but EMI is not normally an issue. A larger surface area would
actually have greater EMI succeptability. There is higher thermal
noise with larger pixels, but that is more than offset by the
greater e- well depth capability.

Best,
Alex P


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@i...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > 
> > The pixel size may have little to do with Resolution, but
> > it sure is a Major factor in overall image Quality.
> 
> Hi Alex,
> 
> Isn't that what "therefore a cleaner image with less noise" means?
> 
> Austin
> 
> > 
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> > 
> > > > Also the D30 pixels are much larger than
> > > > most other camera's pixels.
> > > 
> > > That really has nothing to do with camera resolution.  Whether 
> > the pixels
> > > are 1" square of 5u square, a 3M element sensor IS a 3M element 
> > sensor.  The
> > > advantage the larger pixels give is less EMI (Electro Magnetic 
> > Interference)
> > > and therefore a cleaner image with less noise.
> > > 
> > > Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-17 by Robert G. Morrison

By the time you buy two more lenses for your Mamiya...you could have just
bought my D1x...where the lenses were free...that is they were the same ones
I used with the F100 before...and I have infinitely more options as far as
lenses go.  The Mamiya 7II is a very nice camera...I've thought about buying
one as well...but honestly could only imagine it being more useful than my
D1x for landscape photography.

Oh...and depending on what scanner you buy...you may have spent way more
money than a D1x...just for the scanner.

I can also tell you this...you will save so much money in time, film and
processing using a digital rig...that they quickly pay for themselves if you
shoot a lot.

Robert

On 1/17/02 3:19 AM, "Alessandro Pardi" <alessandro.pardi@...>
wrote:

> Michael,
> 
> I've just ordered a Mamiya 7 II with 65mm, my first go at medium format, and
> am therefore very curious about your project of comparing medium and large
> format scans to the current state of the art in digital (the only thing I
> know is that a D1x is WAY more expensive than a MF body and scanner). Please
> share your results with us.
> 
> Thanks,
> Alessandro Pardi
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kravit [mailto:michael.kravit@...]
> Sent: giovedì 17 gennaio 2002 01.33
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@...m
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
> 
> 
> Steven,
> 
> I have been doing a bit of digital shooting with my Nikon D1x. I have not
> had it lond and only used it a couple of times. I am primarily a 4x5 shooter
> and breaking old habits is tough.
> 
> But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW
> files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for
> 11x14 prints. Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I
> use GF to rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not
> all that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
> with in order to get good results.
> 
> The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87
> filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. Digital prints
> made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready to do a project
> whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6 (T-Max 100) and
> digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360 dpi at 16x20 and then
> printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What we are looking for is the
> ability of the digital camera to produce smooth rich tonally competent
> images and see how they compare with the film versions.
> 
> I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I
> have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at
> rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.
> 
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: steven0356 
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
> Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
> 
> 
> I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
> 8-bit,  
> 17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
> will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
> one see a problem with this approach?
> 
> Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
> 
> How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
> 
> Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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----------------------
Robert Morrison
rmorrison@...

310-397-2704

4131 Bledsoe Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90066

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Austin Franklin

Hi Alex,

> Yes, but EMI is not normally an issue.

But in fact it is!

> A larger surface area would
> actually have greater EMI succeptability.

Not in my experience.  The EMI I am referring to is because the
wires/circuitry of smaller arrays have less space between them, and
therefore are more susceptible to crosstalk.  I've actually done the
measurements, and what I say is backed up with my own lab experience.  That
is also why the interline CCDs used in Digital Video cameras (which are
smaller than typical arrays used in digicams) are much noisier, and
therefore more applicable for DV, not still photography.

Regards,

Austin

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Austin Franklin

Hi Mike,

> I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like
> film, but in reality the camera would need to approach 16
> megapixels to resolve the finest films today.

By my calculations, it's just under 100M pixels, but certainly much less
will give you exceptional results, as seen by the very low res digital
cameras of today, like the D-30/D1 etc.  Remember, that one shot digital
cameras have 25% red, 25% blue and 50% green sensors...so the color
information is interpolated...so because a sensor is 16M elements, doesn't
mean you get 16M PIXELS of information...without making some of it up ;-)

Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Ales,

I hope to get to it this weekend. A friend is writing a book on called the "Digital Zone System", and has asked me to do the testing. All I need it the time.

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Alessandro Pardi 
  To: 'DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com' 
  Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 5:19 AM
  Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  Michael,

  I've just ordered a Mamiya 7 II with 65mm, my first go at medium format, and
  am therefore very curious about your project of comparing medium and large
  format scans to the current state of the art in digital (the only thing I
  know is that a D1x is WAY more expensive than a MF body and scanner). Please
  share your results with us.

  Thanks,
  Alessandro Pardi

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Michael Kravit [mailto:michael.kravit@...]
  Sent: giovedì 17 gennaio 2002 01.33
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  Steven,

  I have been doing a bit of digital shooting with my Nikon D1x. I have not
  had it lond and only used it a couple of times. I am primarily a 4x5 shooter
  and breaking old habits is tough.

  But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW
  files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for
  11x14 prints. Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I
  use GF to rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not
  all that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
  with in order to get good results.

  The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87
  filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared. Digital prints
  made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready to do a project
  whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6 (T-Max 100) and
  digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360 dpi at 16x20 and then
  printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What we are looking for is the
  ability of the digital camera to produce smooth rich tonally competent
  images and see how they compare with the film versions.

  I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I
  have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at
  rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.

  Mike
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: steven0356 
    To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
    Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
    Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


    I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
    8-bit,  
    17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I 
    will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any 
    one see a problem with this approach?

    Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film? 

    How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?

    Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?




          Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
                ADVERTISEMENT
               
         
         

    Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
  other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

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  <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint> 

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  them short.
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Greg,

How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 w/o the use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to giving me what I need.

Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping. 

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Pics4U@... 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 7:28 AM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  On 16 Jan 2002, at 23:12, Michael Kravit wrote:

  > Carl, that makes sense. On my D1x I start at f/16 for 6 seconds at
  > EI-125 in bright sunlight.
  > 
  > Mike

  Mike, why f/16 for such a long exposure? Why not 
  something more sensible like f/8 at 1 second or so?  IMHO 
  and based on previous experience, movement at such long 
  exposures outweighs any depth of field gain. I have been 
  using ISO 400 on my D1X and have been quite satisfied 
  with the results. To add a bit of grain like traditional IR film, 
  I've even used ISO 1600/3200.

  Greg


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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Jerry,

I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like film, but in reality the camera would need to approach 16 megapixels to resolve the finest films today.

For example, I recently shot an image in a Charleston Cemetary on 4x5 T-Max 100. In the distance, oh perhaps 2 miles away is what looks like a 6 story office building. I can zoom in on my scan and see a guy sitting at his desk on the top floor. 

Try that with a digital D30 or D1x.

Mike






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Jerry,

The 87 is Opaque.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jerry Olson 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 10:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  Mike, the D30 doesn't have a black and white mode.  Is the 87 filter
  opaque, or deep red?

  I use Kai's Power Tools "Equalizer" sharpen tool from version 6. Use the
  "Boundary sharpen mode", not the equalizer mode. Very quick and easy to
  do. there are only 2 sliders and you can see the results in a very large
  magnified window to see exactly how far to sharpen without getting
  artifacts. You will be amazed at how much you can sharpen the D30 or Dx
  images before any artifacts appear.

  Jerry





  Michael Kravit wrote:
  > 
  > Jerry,
  > 
  > Like I said, I am new to digital shooting. Actually, I have not owned a 35mm camera in a couple of years.  I had no idea that digital camera images needed that much sharpening. How much do you sharpen. I think that I was doing it much the way I do it with film scans. As little as possible or none at all.
  > 
  > Infrared is cool. You shoot it with the 87 filter and then once downloaded you convert to grayscale with channel mixer just like a color scan to grayscale. You can also set the camera to B/W mode and then the infrared previews look incredible and not red.
  > 
  > >From what I read the D30 will do it also.
  > 
  > I bought an 4x4 87 polyester filter from Lee along with a frame. It fits my Lee filter holder.
  > 
  > Mike
  >   ----- Original Message -----
  >   From: Jerry Olson
  >   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  >   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:52 PM
  >   Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
  > 
  >   > But, with that said, I will tell you that so far I am impressed. My RAW files once converted become 34 meg tif files. They are almost adequate for 11x14 prints.
  > 
  >   ALMOST good enough?!!! People are printing spectacular 13x19 images from
  >   this camera AND the Canon D-30!
  > 
  >   Some feel that they are fine, but I am anal but resolution. I use GF to
  >   rez them up to print 16x20. I have found that GF is good, but not all
  >   that it is cracked up to be. You need a perfectly sharp image to start
  >   with in order to get good results.
  > 
  >   I have a closeup of my cat's face that is 13x19 and is every bit as
  >   sharp as scanned velvia film!
  > 
  >   You MUST sharpen ALL digital images, and those taken with under $5000
  >   need a LOT of sharpening. They will take it with no problems. How do you
  >   sharpen your images?
  > 
  >   > The coolest part of digital shooting that I have found is sticking an 87 filter in front of the lens and getting digital infrared.
  > 
  >   That sounds WONDERFUL! A grainless Infrared photograph! Does this work
  >   on All digital cameras? Or only those that focus their flash with
  >   infrared light?
  > 
  >   Would the Canon D30 do it?
  > 
  >   How does that work? wouldn't you just get a very red photo?
  > 
  >   Jerry
  > 
  >   Digital prints made from digital files are very nice. I am getting ready
  >   to do a project whereby I shoot the same scene in 4x5 (T-Max 100), 6x6
  >   (T-Max 100) and digital on the D1x. I will be scanning the film at 360
  >   dpi at 16x20 and then printing the images at the same 16x20 size. What
  >   we are looking for is the ability of the digital camera to produce
  >   smooth rich tonally competent images and see how they compare with the
  >   film versions.
  >   >
  >   > I think you are are going in the right direction. I will tell you that I have found that in some instances Photoshop does as good if not better at rezzing (I like that pseudo word) up the files.
  >   >
  >   > Mike
  >   >   ----- Original Message -----
  >   >   From: steven0356
  >   >   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  >   >   Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 10:34 AM
  >   >   Subject: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
  >   >
  >   >   I am planning to shoot with my Canon D-30, which will give me a
  >   >   8-bit,
  >   >   17 meg file if I save it as a raw file in the camera.   If needed, I
  >   >   will use Genuine Fractals to interpolate the file size up.  Does any
  >   >   one see a problem with this approach?
  >   >
  >   >   Does any one shoot digitally or are most people still shooting film?
  >   >
  >   >   How does a digital image compare to a scanned neg. in print quality?
  >   >
  >   >   Is Genuine Fractals the best  way interpolate a digital file?
  >   >
  >   >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
  >   >               ADVERTISEMENT
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Austin,

With all due respect, a number of respected photo publications have stated publicly that the resolution of a digital capture chip must reach 16 megapixels before it reaches the ability of a fine grained film.  I am not a video engineer and quite honestly don't have enough information to intelligently debate the issue.  I can not say whether you are right or wrong, but would like to read more on the subject at some pint in the future.

100 Megapixels sounds bit extreme, but then again I don't know enough to say either way.

Thanks for the info.

Mike 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Austin Franklin 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 6:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally



  Hi Mike,

  > I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like
  > film, but in reality the camera would need to approach 16
  > megapixels to resolve the finest films today.

  By my calculations, it's just under 100M pixels, but certainly much less
  will give you exceptional results, as seen by the very low res digital
  cameras of today, like the D-30/D1 etc.  Remember, that one shot digital
  cameras have 25% red, 25% blue and 50% green sensors...so the color
  information is interpolated...so because a sensor is 16M elements, doesn't
  mean you get 16M PIXELS of information...without making some of it up ;-)

  Austin


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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Michael Kravit

Austin,

I found a pretty basic but fairly well written article comparing film to ccd. It seem that the author is saying that although
one would need to have 100M pixels to achieve the resolving power of Kodachrome, there are many other factors that
play into a digital cameras ability to produce images that are comprable to film.

http://www.extremetech.com/article/0,3396,s%253D1009%2526a%253D5629,00.asp

I thought others might like to read up on the subject.

Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Austin Franklin

Hi,

I guarantee you 16M sensor elements are not enough to reach the "ability" of
fine grained film...but...that depends on what you mean by "ability".  Film
grain is random, and therefore it is very hard to "agree" on what
constitutes equality between the two.

If you go by film grain size, which, let's say, is 5u, and film is 24mm x
36mm, that would be .024 divided by .000005 or 4800 x 7200 or 34,560,000M
pixels, where each pixel was 3 bytes, or ~100M pixels.  That's how that
number is arrived at, pretty simple arithmetic.  Again, that does not take
into consideration the random nature of film grain.  I'm not saying that's
good or bad, BTW.

The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data.  The
eye is much more forgiving with color information than it is with luminance,
and that is why these cameras do get reasonably decent color...similar to
the way TV works.

Now, this is not to say that you won't get a great image from a 16M sensor
mind you, but I really believe it's not near what film can give you.

Austin
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Austin,
>
> With all due respect, a number of respected photo publications
> have stated publicly that the resolution of a digital capture
> chip must reach 16 megapixels before it reaches the ability of a
> fine grained film.  I am not a video engineer and quite honestly
> don't have enough information to intelligently debate the issue.
> I can not say whether you are right or wrong, but would like to
> read more on the subject at some pint in the future.
>
> 100 Megapixels sounds bit extreme, but then again I don't know
> enough to say either way.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Mike
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Austin Franklin
>   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 6:13 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
>
>
>
>   Hi Mike,
>
>   > I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like
>   > film, but in reality the camera would need to approach 16
>   > megapixels to resolve the finest films today.
>
>   By my calculations, it's just under 100M pixels, but certainly much less
>   will give you exceptional results, as seen by the very low res digital
>   cameras of today, like the D-30/D1 etc.  Remember, that one shot digital
>   cameras have 25% red, 25% blue and 50% green sensors...so the color
>   information is interpolated...so because a sensor is 16M
> elements, doesn't
>   mean you get 16M PIXELS of information...without making some of
> it up ;-)
>
>   Austin
>

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Pics4U@en.com

Whenever I shoot something that requires that kind of DOF, I'm 
normally shooting wide angle and the DOF just takes care of itself. 
Besides, I'm a believer is staying away from the first two and last two 
stops of any lens. IMHO? The extra sharpness of a middle upper 
f/stop such as f/8 or f/11 seems to give the results I need.

I'm also primarily a people shooter so such things as 6 second 
shutter speeds aren't possible in many situations.

Greg
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 w/o the
> use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far
> relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to giving
> me what I need.
> 
> Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping. 
> 
> Mike

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Patrick Paulin

Just thought I'd mention, there is a guy doing nice infrared work with a
Canon G1 and a Heliopan filter
 
http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=145900
 
--- Patrick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...] 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 10:54 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally
 
Jerry, Here are links to the images.
Out of camera, no adjustments:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675.jpg
RGB mode, autolevels:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675_2.jpg
Greyscale converted:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/D30IR/CRW_0675g.jpg

This test image was shot at ISO 100, RAW mode, mirror lock-up enabled,
long
exposure noise reduction ON, manual exposure mode, 3 sec at f/11.  The
filter was a Hoya R72 (Wratten 89B) which is a deep red filter that
leaks a
little visible light as well as passing all of the near infrared.  The
autoleveled RGB image shows this mixture of visible and infrared light.
I
either convert to greyscale using the lightness channel in LAB mode or
use
the channel mixer.

Carl

From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@...>
Reply-To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:29:51 -0600
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


Carl, The search engine isn't working, do you know what page those
images are on?

Once you've taken a photo with the red filter, I assume you'd have a
very red photo. How do you change it to Black and white infrared?

Is an 87 filter the opaque one, or just a very deep red?

Thanks

Jerry

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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by shashinka@aol.com

In a message dated 1/17/02 6:51:56 PM, michael.kravit@... writes:

<< For example, I recently shot an image in a Charleston Cemetary on 4x5 
T-Max 100. In the distance, oh perhaps 2 miles away is what looks like a 6 
story office building. I can zoom in on my scan and see a guy sitting at his 
desk on the top floor.  >>

Reminds me of those spy movies where they keep zooming in on a room from a 
tiny Minox film capture to read the fine print on a book of matches!

-Andy Darlow

Photography, Digital Print Consulting and Custom Editions
Andrew Darlow Images International
www.andydarlow.com
andy@...

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Derek Clarke

What dpi did you scan that 4x5 at?
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Friday 18 Jan 2002 12:44 am, Michael Kravit wrote:
> Jerry,
>
> I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like film, but in
> reality the camera would need to approach 16 megapixels to resolve the
> finest films today.
>
> For example, I recently shot an image in a Charleston Cemetary on 4x5 T-Max
> 100. In the distance, oh perhaps 2 miles away is what looks like a 6 story
> office building. I can zoom in on my scan and see a guy sitting at his desk
> on the top floor.
>
> Try that with a digital D30 or D1x.
>
> Mike

Re: Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by a_pettit_jr

For Your Evaluation,
Here is one of my IRs with my modest 4.3Mpix Olympus E10.

The first is a low qual jpeg reduction with the image
reduced to 1/5th the size used for printing.
The second, a small snip of full size at less compression.

Perhaps 50+ yr eyes are less critical, but I feel that 4.3Mpix
is outstanding for 8x10s and I have a wall full of 12x16s that
I'd not be ashamed to show anyone .. I am currently more concerned
with content than perfect clarity.

http://www.evcom.com/~apettit/WPFountainIRsm.jpg
http://www.evcom.com/~apettit/WPFountainIRsnip.jpg

Best,
Alex P
Orlando Fla


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Patrick Paulin" <ppaulin@a...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Just thought I'd mention, there is a guy doing nice infrared work with a
> Canon G1 and a Heliopan filter
>  
> http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=145900
>  
> --- Patrick
>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Bruce Kinch

>Ales,
>
>I hope to get to it this weekend. A friend is writing a book on 
>called the "Digital Zone System", and has asked me to do the 
>testing. All I need it the time.
>
>Mike

Hello Michael-

I'm also working on applying the Zone System to digital in my 
classes, and would love to bounce ideas off some likeminders. Could 
you possibly have your friend email me?

Regards,

Bruce


-- 
Bruce C. Kinch
Associate Professor of Photography
The Art Institute of Boston at Lesley University

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Bob Frost

I agree with Austin; I don't yet have a digital camera because they don't
give the detail that I can get from Provia 100F scanned with a LS4000
scanner. My files are about 120 MB with 24 Mpixels, and I can print whole
frames at 360 ppi at 10x15" without any interpolation at all.

My friend has a Fuji S1 Pro and I am quite impressed with what the camera's
electronics can do with just 3 Mpixels or less of information. He can make
some quite nice 8x10 prints, but the deficiencies become more apparent at
10x15.

I don't think many will deny that top digital cameras can produce 'nice'
pictures. I think we are arguing as to what is 'nice'. A painter can produce
a 'nice' picture that is ALL invented. A digital camera can produce a 'nice'
picture that is LARGELY invention (on a small framework of real pixel
information). But a fine-grain film scanned at highres will produce a more
accurate picture WITHOUT ANY electronic invention. However, although more
accurate in its recording of the scene, it might not be as 'nice', because
it will show everything (down to the limits of grain size) - warts and all!
I happen to like seeing the 'warts', and if I find them too obtrusive, I can
resort to electronic means in PS to remove them. Digicam users don't have
that choice, the 'warts' just aren't there!

Just my thoughts for the day,

Bob Frost.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Kravit" <michael.kravit@...>
>
> I found a pretty basic but fairly well written article comparing film to
ccd. It seem that the author is saying that although
> one would need to have 100M pixels to achieve the resolving power of
Kodachrome, there are many other factors that
> play into a digital cameras ability to produce images that are comprable
to film.

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by riskdr8138

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Pics4U@e... wrote:
> Whenever I shoot something that requires that kind of DOF, I'm 
> normally shooting wide angle and the DOF just takes care of itself. 
> Besides, I'm a believer is staying away from the first two and last 
two 
> stops of any lens. IMHO? The extra sharpness of a middle upper 
> f/stop such as f/8 or f/11 seems to give the results I need.
> 
> I'm also primarily a people shooter so such things as 6 second 
> shutter speeds aren't possible in many situations.
> 
> Greg
> 
> > How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 w/o 
the
> > use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far
> > relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to 
giving
> > me what I need.

the lenses in a digital camera are of a much shorter focal length 
than in a 35 mm camera for the same angle of view. f8 in these lenses 
has much greater depth of field than in a 35mm camera. the same 
principal holds true for the 4x5. a 150mm lense has the same angle of 
view (approximately) as a 50 mm lense in a 35mm cam. hense the need 
for some movements on the 4x5.  larry pirrone > 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping. 
> > 
> > Mike

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by mkravit

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Derek Clarke <derek_c@c...> 
wrote:
> What dpi did you scan that 4x5 at?

4,000 dpi

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Alessandro Pardi

Gosh... have you stealed a Craig to process that file?
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: mkravit [mailto:michael.kravit@...]
Sent: venerdì 18 gennaio 2002 18.39
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Derek Clarke <derek_c@c...> 
wrote:
> What dpi did you scan that 4x5 at?

4,000 dpi



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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by mkravit

Larry,

I am not sure what the point is?

BTW, the new Canon digital to be released in Orlando next month is 
said to be a 6 megapixel camera with a 1:1 chip. So the focal length 
of a 50mm lens is the same whether it is digital or 35mm film.

Mike

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "riskdr8138" 
<L.PIRRONE@A...> wrote:
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Pics4U@e... wrote:
> > Whenever I shoot something that requires that kind of DOF, I'm 
> > normally shooting wide angle and the DOF just takes care of 
itself. 
> > Besides, I'm a believer is staying away from the first two and 
last 
> two 
> > stops of any lens. IMHO? The extra sharpness of a middle upper 
> > f/stop such as f/8 or f/11 seems to give the results I need.
> > 
> > I'm also primarily a people shooter so such things as 6 second 
> > shutter speeds aren't possible in many situations.
> > 
> > Greg
> > 
> > > How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 w/o 
> the
> > > use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far
> > > relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to 
> giving
> > > me what I need.
> 
> the lenses in a digital camera are of a much shorter focal length 
> than in a 35 mm camera for the same angle of view. f8 in these 
lenses 
> has much greater depth of field than in a 35mm camera. the same 
> principal holds true for the 4x5. a 150mm lense has the same angle 
of 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> view (approximately) as a 50 mm lense in a 35mm cam. hense the need 
> for some movements on the 4x5.  larry pirrone > 
> > > Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping. 
> > > 
> > > Mike

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by riskdr8138

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "mkravit" 
<michael.kravit@w...> wrote:
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Derek Clarke 
<derek_c@c...> 
> wrote:
> > What dpi did you scan that 4x5 at?
> 
> 4,000 dpi

why would you need 4000 dpi? i calculate you could make a 66"x53" 
print from a file that size. do you have large iris prints made? if 
so they must be awsome! larry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by mkravit

Alessabdro,

Smile, No I did not steal a "Cray", but I designed a University 
building to house 4 Cray's once. That was a long time ago.

Mike

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Alessandro Pardi 
<alessandro.pardi@i...> wrote:
> Gosh... have you stealed a Craig to process that file?
removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by mkravit

Larry,

Typically I scan all of negs at 4,000 dpi which is the max optical 
resolution of my scanner. I save the files on CD and that way I never 
have to rescan.

Sometimes I print up to 24x36 depending upon what size the customer 
wants.

Mike


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "riskdr8138" 
<L.PIRRONE@A...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "mkravit" 
> <michael.kravit@w...> wrote:
 
> why would you need 4000 dpi? i calculate you could make a 66"x53" 
> print from a file that size. do you have large iris prints made? if 
> so they must be awsome! larry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Derek Clarke

With 320 Megapixels it darn well ought to beat a digicam!

However a 4000dpi scanner that can do 4x5 is also more expensive than the 
average digicam...
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Friday 18 Jan 2002 5:39 pm, mkravit wrote:
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Derek Clarke <derek_c@c...>
>
> wrote:
> > What dpi did you scan that 4x5 at?
>
> 4,000 dpi
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the
> subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal
> attacks or "flames." - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by riskdr8138

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "mkravit" 
<michael.kravit@w...> wrote:
> Larry,
> 
> I am not sure what the point is?
> 
> BTW, the new Canon digital to be released in Orlando next month is 
> said to be a 6 megapixel camera with a 1:1 chip. So the focal 
length 
> of a 50mm lens is the same whether it is digital or 35mm film.
> 
> Mike

i  guess what i was saying is that the chip is much smaller than the 
image area of a 35mm piece of film,in most consumer level digital 
cameras. of course if the new cannon has a 1:1 chip then it will have 
the same depth of field as a 35 mm film cam.  but, lets say that the 
digital camera has a 9 mm lense and its angle of view is the same as 
a 50mm  lense on a 35 mm cam due to the smaller image area of the 
digital cam . the 9mm lense is going to have greater depth of field. 
the blur circle at the film plane is going to be smaller than the 
50mm lense at the same aperature. i guess the original question was 
how does someone get good depth of field from a digital camear with a 
relatively large aperature. the answer is that the digital cam does 
not need as small an aperature because its lenses are of shorter 
focal length than 35 mm cameras. just trying to explain why you can 
use a relatively large aperature without having to resort to camera 
movements. larry --- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "riskdr8138" 
> <L.PIRRONE@A...> wrote:
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Pics4U@e... wrote:
> > > Whenever I shoot something that requires that kind of DOF, I'm 
> > > normally shooting wide angle and the DOF just takes care of 
> itself. 
> > > Besides, I'm a believer is staying away from the first two and 
> last 
> > two 
> > > stops of any lens. IMHO? The extra sharpness of a middle upper 
> > > f/stop such as f/8 or f/11 seems to give the results I need.
> > > 
> > > I'm also primarily a people shooter so such things as 6 second 
> > > shutter speeds aren't possible in many situations.
> > > 
> > > Greg
> > > 
> > > > How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 
w/o 
> > the
> > > > use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far
> > > > relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to 
> > giving
> > > > me what I need.
> > 
> > the lenses in a digital camera are of a much shorter focal length 
> > than in a 35 mm camera for the same angle of view. f8 in these 
> lenses 
> > has much greater depth of field than in a 35mm camera. the same 
> > principal holds true for the 4x5. a 150mm lense has the same 
angle 
> of 
> > view (approximately) as a 50 mm lense in a 35mm cam. hense the 
need 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > for some movements on the 4x5.  larry pirrone > 
> > > > Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping. 
> > > > 
> > > > Mike

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Jerry Olson

Mike, I'd never try that with a D30!	  I only use it for closeups, and
panoramas, where you overlap 3 images or so, which of course increases
resolution, even at infinity. For what I want to use it for it's great. 
I also have a rollei sl66 and Fujica 6x9 for the landscapes.

Jerry




Michael Kravit wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Jerry,
> 
> I think tha visually you are seeing an image that looks like film, but in reality the camera would need to approach 16 megapixels to resolve the finest films today.
> 
> For example, I recently shot an image in a Charleston Cemetary on 4x5 T-Max 100. In the distance, oh perhaps 2 miles away is what looks like a 6 story office building. I can zoom in on my scan and see a guy sitting at his desk on the top floor.
> 
> Try that with a digital D30 or D1x.
> 
> Mike
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-18 by Jerry Olson

Did you see the price? Should I mortgage my cats now?

Jerry



mkravit wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Larry,
> 
> I am not sure what the point is?
> 
> BTW, the new Canon digital to be released in Orlando next month is
> said to be a 6 megapixel camera with a 1:1 chip. So the focal length
> of a 50mm lens is the same whether it is digital or 35mm film.
> 
> Mike
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "riskdr8138"
> <L.PIRRONE@A...> wrote:
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Pics4U@e... wrote:
> > > Whenever I shoot something that requires that kind of DOF, I'm
> > > normally shooting wide angle and the DOF just takes care of
> itself.
> > > Besides, I'm a believer is staying away from the first two and
> last
> > two
> > > stops of any lens. IMHO? The extra sharpness of a middle upper
> > > f/stop such as f/8 or f/11 seems to give the results I need.
> > >
> > > I'm also primarily a people shooter so such things as 6 second
> > > shutter speeds aren't possible in many situations.
> > >
> > > Greg
> > >
> > > > How do you get adequate DOF in a 35mm digital camera at f/8 w/o
> > the
> > > > use of movements?  As a LF shooter, I get into the near/far
> > > > relationships of DOF and find that f/8 does not come close to
> > giving
> > > > me what I need.
> >
> > the lenses in a digital camera are of a much shorter focal length
> > than in a 35 mm camera for the same angle of view. f8 in these
> lenses
> > has much greater depth of field than in a 35mm camera. the same
> > principal holds true for the 4x5. a 150mm lense has the same angle
> of
> > view (approximately) as a 50 mm lense in a 35mm cam. hense the need
> > for some movements on the 4x5.  larry pirrone >
> > > > Movement? If the wind is blowing, I am at home sleeping.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-19 by Jerry Olson

To all who are doing infrared with your digital cameras, Which filters
are you using?  there are so many. 87, 88, 89, 29A, etc. Are you using
the opaque ones or the red ones? 

Jerry

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-19 by Carl Schofield

Jerry, I used to use the 87C (B+W 093), 87 (Tiffen), and Hoya R72 (89B) with
my old Nikon 950.  There are some comaprison images with the three filters
here:
http://homepage.mac.com/scho/MySlideshow/filtercomp.html
The D30 is not as sensitive to IR as the 950, so now I only use the Hoya R72
with the D30.  This is a very dark red filter that you can barely see
through, the other two are visually opaque.
Carl 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@...>
Reply-To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:47:04 -0600
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


To all who are doing infrared with your digital cameras, Which filters
are you using?  there are so many. 87, 88, 89, 29A, etc. Are you using
the opaque ones or the red ones?

Jerry

Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

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resources on the homepage.




Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-19 by Michael Kravit

Jerry,

I am using the 87. I find that the darker filters (87B, C, I think) tend to filter too much of the IR spectrum for the Nikon. With the opaque 87 I get very vivid IR effects. Grass is virtually white and foliage varies to almost white. Skies get almost jet black.

Mike
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jerry Olson 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally


  To all who are doing infrared with your digital cameras, Which filters
  are you using?  there are so many. 87, 88, 89, 29A, etc. Are you using
  the opaque ones or the red ones? 

  Jerry

  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

  Please follow these basic guidelines:
  - Include your full name with your message.
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  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-19 by Jerry Olson

Thanks Carl, those are good examples of different filters. The Hoya R72
seems to allow you to use a much higher shutter speed than the others. I
think with a little playing around in photoshop I could get the skies a
bit darker, and probably come close to the B&W 93 filter. To use 1/4th
of a second or less would make the trees here a bit blurry, because
there is always a wind. But I'll start out with the Hoya and go from there.

Jeryr

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Tim Spragens

Austin,

can you explain why more companies aren't using CMYK filters instead 
of RGBG for single-chip cameras? Seems like there would be less light 
loss, and it would avoid the redundant G.

Tim


> The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
> really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
> really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data. 
--
Tim Spragens
http://www.borderless-photos.com
&
http://www.borderless-photos.de

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Austin Franklin

Hi Tim,

I haven't really thought about that.  Obviously, you'd have to do color
space conversion.  I remember a web article that outlined using CMYK, but it
really doesn't give any detailed explanation:

http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp

I wish I knew more...and it is an interesting question.  I have a friend who
is designing some consumer level digicams, and I'm sure he has people who
work with him who could possibly answer that question, so I'll ask him.

If you find out anything, I'd like to know!  What I would do, is make a
filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that 2x2 area
and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO interpolating, and you
have TRUE color information...but then you get 1/4th the number of "pixels"
(I use that term loosely here ;-) that the cameras that use interpolation,
give you.

Regards,

Austin
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Spragens [mailto:t.spragens@...]
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:32 PM
> To: dIgitalblackandwhitetheprint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin
>
>
> Austin,
>
> can you explain why more companies aren't using CMYK filters instead
> of RGBG for single-chip cameras? Seems like there would be less light
> loss, and it would avoid the redundant G.
>
> Tim
>
>
> > The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
> > really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
> > really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data.
> --
> Tim Spragens
> http://www.borderless-photos.com
> &
> http://www.borderless-photos.de

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Tim Spragens

> If you find out anything, I'd like to know!

There was a BJP article, I think about a Kodak CMY Bayer patterned 
chip. Now, it seems that I've pitched that article, I just find a 
note that I wrote referring to it.

>  What I would do, is make
> a filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that
> 2x2 area and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO
> interpolating, and you have TRUE color information...

You mean a prism/lens that would split the light from the 2x2 onto 
all four elements, before the filter? Make it dense and 24 x 36 mm, 
with a switchable filter/lens (color/greyscale), and we'd have the 
digital equivalent of a Contarex (and probably as market worthy).

Tim

--
Tim Spragens
http://www.borderless-photos.com
&
http://www.borderless-photos.de

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by SKID Photography

I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one collect 'black' with
a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction and not light waves.  And
I think the reason they use RGB is that it's tranmissive and not reflective
(would that be additive and not subtractive?)....

Harvey Ferdschneider
partner, SKID Photography, NYC

Austin Franklin wrote:

>  Hi Tim,
>
> I haven't really thought about that.  Obviously, you'd have to do color
> space conversion.  I remember a web article that outlined using CMYK, but it
> really doesn't give any detailed explanation:
>
> http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
>
> I wish I knew more...and it is an interesting question.  I have a friend who
> is designing some consumer level digicams, and I'm sure he has people who
> work with him who could possibly answer that question, so I'll ask him.
>
> If you find out anything, I'd like to know!  What I would do, is make a
> filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that 2x2 area
> and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO interpolating, and you
> have TRUE color information...but then you get 1/4th the number of "pixels"
> (I use that term loosely here ;-) that the cameras that use interpolation,
> give you.
>
> Regards,
>
> Austin
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tim Spragens [mailto:t.spragens@...]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:32 PM
> > To: dIgitalblackandwhitetheprint@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin
> >
> >
> > Austin,
> >
> > can you explain why more companies aren't using CMYK filters instead
> > of RGBG for single-chip cameras? Seems like there would be less light
> > loss, and it would avoid the redundant G.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> > > The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
> > > really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
> > > really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data.
> > --
> > Tim Spragens
> > http://www.borderless-photos.com
> > &
> > http://www.borderless-photos.de
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other
> resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Tim Spragens

Hi Harvey,

just one sensor that has an ND sensor. Seems to me it might allow 
better white point, though the only one that I've heard of is a CMY, 
not CMYK.

Tim


> I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one collect
> 'black' with a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction
> and not light waves.  And I think the reason they use RGB is that it's
> tranmissive and not reflective (would that be additive and not
> subtractive?)....
--
Tim Spragens
http://www.borderless-photos.com
&
http://www.borderless-photos.de

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by a_pettit_jr

There was quite a flurry a few years ago in the astronomical
color imaging world when the CMY dichroics seemed like the
answer to the poor noise created by the RGBs. But, as the
amateur astrophotographers worked with both, the subtraction
processes required  to extract the RGB components negated any
gain from acquiring dual colors. 
There are some color CCDs that Do use a CMYG set.

Best,
Alex P


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@i...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Hi Tim,
> 
> I haven't really thought about that.  Obviously, you'd have to do color
> space conversion.  I remember a web article that outlined using CMYK, but it
> really doesn't give any detailed explanation:
> 
> http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
> 
> I wish I knew more...and it is an interesting question.  I have a friend who
> is designing some consumer level digicams, and I'm sure he has people who
> work with him who could possibly answer that question, so I'll ask him.
> 
> If you find out anything, I'd like to know!  What I would do, is make a
> filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that 2x2 area
> and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO interpolating, and you
> have TRUE color information...but then you get 1/4th the number of "pixels"
> (I use that term loosely here ;-) that the cameras that use interpolation,
> give you.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Austin
> 
> 
> > http://www.borderless-photos.de

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Austin Franklin

> I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one 
> collect 'black' with
> a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction and not 
> light waves.  And
> I think the reason they use RGB is that it's tranmissive and not 
> reflective
> (would that be additive and not subtractive?)....
> 
> Harvey Ferdschneider
> partner, SKID Photography, NYC
> >
> > http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp

Hi Harvey,

Go read that page I referenced...K is not black in this use...

Austin

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by Austin Franklin

Cyan, Green, Magenta and Yellow...

Austin
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Hi Harvey,
> 
> just one sensor that has an ND sensor. Seems to me it might allow 
> better white point, though the only one that I've heard of is a CMY, 
> not CMYK.
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> > I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one collect
> > 'black' with a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction
> > and not light waves.  And I think the reason they use RGB is that it's
> > tranmissive and not reflective (would that be additive and not
> > subtractive?)....
> --

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-19 by SKID Photography

Austin Franklin wrote:

>  > I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one
> > collect 'black' with
> > a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction and not
> > light waves.  And
> > I think the reason they use RGB is that it's tranmissive and not
> > reflective
> > (would that be additive and not subtractive?)....
> >
> > Harvey Ferdschneider
> > partner, SKID Photography, NYC
> > >
> > > http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
>
> Hi Harvey,
>
> Go read that page I referenced...K is not black in this use...
>
> Austin

Then it that example it would be CMYG (as in green) and not CMYK (as in black).

Harvey Ferdschneider
partner, SKID Photography, NYC


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-20 by Austin Franklin

> >  > I think you could possible use CMY but not K.  How can one
> > > collect 'black' with
> > > a sensor?  You're thinking in 4 color ink reproduction and not
> > > light waves.  And
> > > I think the reason they use RGB is that it's tranmissive and not
> > > reflective
> > > (would that be additive and not subtractive?)....
> > >
> > > Harvey Ferdschneider
> > > partner, SKID Photography, NYC
> > > >
> > > > http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
> >
> > Hi Harvey,
> >
> > Go read that page I referenced...K is not black in this use...
> >
> > Austin
> 
> Then it that example it would be CMYG (as in green) and not CMYK 
> (as in black).

Harvey,

Of course, but they still call it CMYK.

Austin

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-21 by Derek Clarke

I think the answer is simply that there is only a limited number of sensor 
manufacturers and they choose to use RGBG!

Canon have used CMYG filters (NOT CMY - a K filter would just be an ND!) in 
cameras like the Pro 70 and earlier compacts, and they have had very good 
quality for their class.

I think Kodak have also used CMYG in the past, although not currently AFAIK.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Saturday 19 Jan 2002 6:31 pm, Tim Spragens wrote:
> Austin,
>
> can you explain why more companies aren't using CMYK filters instead
> of RGBG for single-chip cameras? Seems like there would be less light
> loss, and it would avoid the redundant G.
>
> Tim
>
> > The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
> > really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
> > really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data.

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin

2002-01-21 by Derek Clarke

The Minolta RD175 used three CCDs with a prism to split the light from the 
lens, in the same way that 3-CCD video cameras do it.

However the narrow cone of light that the prism accepted meant that all 
lenses were restricted to f/6.9 or smaller irrespective of their normal 
maximum aperture.

On Saturday 19 Jan 2002 6:53 pm, Austin Franklin wrote:
> Hi Tim,
>
> I haven't really thought about that.  Obviously, you'd have to do color
> space conversion.  I remember a web article that outlined using CMYK, but
> it really doesn't give any detailed explanation:
>
> http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
>
> I wish I knew more...and it is an interesting question.  I have a friend
> who is designing some consumer level digicams, and I'm sure he has people
> who work with him who could possibly answer that question, so I'll ask him.
>
> If you find out anything, I'd like to know!  What I would do, is make a
> filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that 2x2 area
> and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO interpolating, and you
> have TRUE color information...but then you get 1/4th the number of "pixels"
> (I use that term loosely here ;-) that the cameras that use interpolation,
> give you.used three CCDs with a prism to split the light form the lens, in 
the same way that 3-CCD video cameras do it.

However the prism meant that
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Saturday 19 Jan 2002 6:53 pm, Austin Franklin wrote:
> Hi Tim,
>
> I haven't really thought about that.  Obviously, you'd have to do color
> space conversion.  I remember a web article that outlined using CMYK, but
> it really doesn't give any detailed explanation:
>
> http://www.digitalcameras.com/howTheyWork2.asp
>
> I wish I knew more...and it is an interesting question.  I have a friend
> who is designing some consumer level digicams, and I'm sure he has people
> who work with him who could possibly answer that question, so I'll ask him.
>
> If you find out anything, I'd like to know!  What I would do, is make a
> filter/lense that is a quad prism that takes ALL the info for that 2x2 area
> and gives it to each sensor...that way there is NO interpolating, and you
> have TRUE color information...but then you get 1/4th the number of "pixels"
> (I use that term loosely here ;-) that the cameras that use interpolation,
> give you.
>
> Regards,
>
> Austin
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tim Spragens [mailto:t.spragens@...]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:32 PM
> > To: dIgitalblackandwhitetheprint@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally, for Austin
> >
> >
> > Austin,
> >
> > can you explain why more companies aren't using CMYK filters instead
> > of RGBG for single-chip cameras? Seems like there would be less light
> > loss, and it would avoid the redundant G.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > The other issue that comes into play, is these one shot cameras aren't
> > > really true pixels...they interpolate the color data, which makes them
> > > really require 4x the number of sensors to give you TRUE color data.
> >
> > --
> > Tim Spragens
> > http://www.borderless-photos.com
> > &
> > http://www.borderless-photos.de
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the
> subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal
> attacks or "flames." - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-26 by Jerry Olson

I can hardly wait to try the infrared digital route. But tell me why on
earth would you want to add grain to your infrared image? I've been
hoping for years to find an infrared film with NO grain.

I consider the grain a serious defect in Kodak infrared film. That's why
I never use it.

Jerry






Pics4U@... wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> On 16 Jan 2002, at 23:12, Michael Kravit wrote:
> 
> > Carl, that makes sense. On my D1x I start at f/16 for 6 seconds at
> > EI-125 in bright sunlight.
> >
> > Mike
> 
> Mike, why f/16 for such a long exposure? Why not
> something more sensible like f/8 at 1 second or so?  IMHO
> and based on previous experience, movement at such long
> exposures outweighs any depth of field gain. I have been
> using ISO 400 on my D1X and have been quite satisfied
> with the results. To add a bit of grain like traditional IR film,
> I've even used ISO 1600/3200.
> 
> Greg
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-26 by Moreno Polloni

> I can hardly wait to try the infrared digital route. But tell me why on
> earth would you want to add grain to your infrared image? I've been
> hoping for years to find an infrared film with NO grain.
>
> I consider the grain a serious defect in Kodak infrared film. That's why
> I never use it.

On the other hand, I love the infrared grain, as well as the highlight flare
from the lack of an antihaltion layer. It's one of those qualities that you
either love or hate.

Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-30 by Jerry Olson

This is weird. I asked that question about 3 weeks ago, and it pops up today!

Jerry



Moreno Polloni wrote:
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> 
> > I can hardly wait to try the infrared digital route. But tell me why on
> > earth would you want to add grain to your infrared image? I've been
> > hoping for years to find an infrared film with NO grain.
> >
> > I consider the grain a serious defect in Kodak infrared film. That's why
> > I never use it.
> 
> On the other hand, I love the infrared grain, as well as the highlight flare
> from the lack of an antihaltion layer. It's one of those qualities that you
> either love or hate.
> 
> 
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Re: [Digital BW] Shooting Digitally

2002-01-30 by Moreno Polloni

I read and replied to that question 4 days ago. Strange.


> This is weird. I asked that question about 3 weeks ago, and it pops up
today!
>
> >
> > > I can hardly wait to try the infrared digital route. But tell me why
on
> > > earth would you want to add grain to your infrared image? I've been
> > > hoping for years to find an infrared film with NO grain.
> > >
> > > I consider the grain a serious defect in Kodak infrared film. That's
why
> > > I never use it.
> >
> > On the other hand, I love the infrared grain, as well as the highlight
flare
> > from the lack of an antihaltion layer. It's one of those qualities that
you
> > either love or hate.

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