Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-07 by javaguy11111
... I purchased the photoresist from thinktink.com, but the smallest amount they sell is in 80 foot rolls. Damon
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Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-07 by Phil Peery
... Hey Javaguy, Great pic s, very descriptive! The process for getting this on the board looks pretty easy if you have the right laminator. One question,
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: THRU HOLE PLATEING
2008-02-06 by Markus Zingg
Suske, With the chemistry from Bungard it s like this: Bath #1, #4,#5 are on their own . That said you must mix each of them according to the information you
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: THRU HOLE PLATEING
2008-02-06 by _bojan_
Hi Markus, I have another question. In Bungard catalog is price for 500ml of Activator(Catalist). Is it suppose that it need to be mixed with 2l of something
Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-06 by javaguy11111
... You want the side you removed the plastic from down on the board. The mylar side is up. I may need to make a correction to my descriptions. I said that the
Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-06 by javaguy11111
The laminator cost me about $100, but there are less expensive ones. Your 4x6 may get hot enough. Never hurts to try. From what I have read you will have to be
Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-05 by kevcav2002
... nice description but I have question on which side of the resist is against the PCB. The plastic side right or was it Thanks Kevin
Re: Photoresit pictures
2008-02-05 by Ray
Thanks Javaguy, a picture is worth a thousand words. I have never used the soda wash product before but now that I see the box I am sure I can find it at the
Photoresit pictures
2008-02-05 by javaguy11111
I took a few pictures of laminating the photoresist I have been experimenting with. The url is http://www.pcbhobbyist.com/howtousephotoresist
Re: Sealing Toner with a Hot Air Gun - Sponge Rubbing
2008-02-03 by niponcio
Thnx for the replies, I am going to test it. Gonna try a hot air gun and the label backing paper.Hopefully the gun will work. Thnx again ... durace ... is to
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Sealing Toner with a Hot Air Gun - Sponge Rubbing
2008-02-02 by Myc Holmes
As the original poster, I simply used a hair dryer very close to the durace of the pvb to fast fuse the toner. Yes it works with the sponge method. I ve also
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Sealing Toner with a Hot Air Gun - Sponge Rubbing
2008-02-02 by Leon
... From: niponcio To: Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 5:18 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Sealing Toner
Sealing Toner with a Hot Air Gun - Sponge Rubbing
2008-02-02 by niponcio
Hi, I remember reading in a post, a while ago, that after transfering the toner to the PCB, u could seal it with a heat gun, eliminating the porous surface,
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Stefan Trethan
Most components seem to specify two solder cycles, i always thought that was the reason. But then, they also expect a $$$$$$ temperature profile oven, not
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by javaguy11111
I have done it in one trip to the oven because I was concerned with the effects of heating the board and components twice. My little toaster over isn t that
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by tonyburch2001
... first, ... I ve ... prefer ... with ... same I definitely think Markus s method of reflowing twice, as opposed to using glue dots etc. is a much better
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Stefan Trethan
... Actually, once the solder is reflowed there is no problem. The surface tension of solder is huge. It is no problem to use hot air on components that are
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Markus Zingg
If I have components on both sides, I just do the simpler side first, reflow it, then do the other side. No part ever felt off so far. I ve not yet been brave
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by tonyburch2001
... same ... side ... so it ... that s ... components ... solder ... Hi Eeks, Yes! The smaller chip components will not fall off - surface tension holds them
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by javaguy11111
Surface tension keeps them stuck on as the solder melts. I have not tried doing that with bigger components so I do not know what the limit is. One thing you
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... amazing! when solderpaste gets liquid components should drop.. that s a question i was making myself, is it possible to populate components on both sides
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... yes, air flow and small components are apparently a bad combination. i suppose it s a try-and-try-again until you learn which distance is best, taking care
liquid photoresist
2008-01-31 by David Griffith
Does anyone here use liquid photoresist anymore? On a lark, I looked for photoresist on Ebay and came up with this stuff:
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by javaguy11111
... Tacky enough that I have populated boards on both sides at the same time then stuck in the oven. The parts that went on the bottom side were smaller items
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... even ... yes, i was talking about soldermask dry-film. i ve seen the dupont soldermask requieres uv+bake cure but bungard soldermask can be cured only with
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... great! solderpaste is an all-in-one solution. i haven t even started with this and love it! :) ... i know.. it would be like a doctor without scalpel, but
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Markus Zingg
You definately positively don t need an over for dry-film laminating. You definately don t need it for the artwork develop etch cycle. You COULD use one in
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by DJ Delorie
... Nope, the solder paste is like tacky glue. You can still bump the parts and mess them up (been there) but if you don t, they pretty much stay stuck where
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Stefan Trethan
... Basically that is the idea, yes. But if you reflow with hot air instead of an oven this doesn t always work perfectly. Some part shapes tend to be pushed
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by Stefan Trethan
... You are right the solderpaste already has plenty of flux. It is enough for the initial soldering, and you can also replace components if need be without
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... it s logical if components are sticked to the board with solderpaste! i have no experience with this and thought they would move around..
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
... several ... thank you! i think reflow soldering will be the best too. when etching pcb s i try to make several at a time to avoid wasting chemicals.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by DJ Delorie
... I ve found the opposite to be true. I ve done 5.5 x 3.5 boards on that hotplate, moving it around the whole time, and nothing moved out of place.
Re: starting with SMD
2008-01-31 by eeks123
hi! ... if you have to keep the board moving and you have a lot of components on it, it seems almost impossible to keep everything on place :( and tip ironing
Shrink Film
2008-01-31 by javaguy11111
I did a little experiment with shrink film. In case you do not know what that is, it is the clear wrapping that you see see on boxes like software or in
Re: Sunlight as a UV source?
2008-01-30 by Gary Fiber
... I may have got lucky a couple of years ago. I used an old overhead projector with the original lamp installed as the exposure lamp / box. I placed the
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] starting with SMD
2008-01-30 by Leon
... From: Eeks Sdfgvbsdfgggggggg To: Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:20 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs]
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] starting with SMD
2008-01-30 by Stefan Trethan
While i agree that it can be soldered with an iron i would highly recommend basic SMD tools. Speeds up the process a lot and is more gentle to the PCB. A hot
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] starting with SMD
2008-01-30 by Dylan Smith
... I have only soldered SMD so far with a soldering iron - the same one I use for through hole, with the same bit (a 0.5mm pointy tip). This has worked fine
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: THRU HOLE PLATEING
2008-01-30 by _bojan_
Hi Markus This is a lot of useful information for me and thank you for that. I ll be free to ask jou again if somethig is not clear to me. Best regards, Suske
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] starting with SMD
2008-01-30 by Tony Burch
... Hi Eeks, welcome! For soldering, I ve found it s faster to use a toaster oven than a hot-air-gun or hot-air-soldering station. With an oven you can do
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] starting with SMD
2008-01-30 by DJ Delorie
... I use a hotplate for most of my smt, and a 0.020 conical tip iron for the rest. http://www.delorie.com/pcb/hotplate/ More near the bottom of:
starting with SMD
2008-01-29 by Eeks Sdfgvbsdfgggggggg
hi all, i m new on this list :) i want to jump from through-hole to SMD and i see there are a lot new things you have to deal with! is it easier/cheapier to
PCEU
2008-01-29 by Marko Pavlin
Hi! Here are some photos of my PC Exposure Unit (PCEU)... I made very simple exposure unit with VTF bulb:
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First Dry resist experimentation
2008-01-29 by Zoran A. Scepanovic
Hello Jon, Monday, January 28, 2008, 10:28:09 PM, you wrote: %
Re: First Dry resist experimentation
2008-01-29 by garydeal
thinktink.com has a wealth of information, if you can find your way to it. ... Use two pieces of tape on a corner of the cut film, one on each side (I like
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First Dry resist experimentation
2008-01-28 by Markus Zingg
Congratulations to your first experiments. You got some answers already, but the answers also depend a bit on the KIND of resist. I don t know what product you
Re: First Dry resist experimentation
2008-01-28 by Jon Elson
... lucky. ... The mylar cover is crinkly, the plastic film is very soft. ... A component of the resist is cyano-acrylate! IE. super-glue. When fresh, it is
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Sunlight as a UV source?
2008-01-28 by Leon
... From: DJ Delorie To: Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 4:40 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Sunlight as a UV
UV Content In Sunlight (Actual Measurements)
2008-01-28 by Roland F. Harriston
Stefan: My snide remark was meant to imply that most people knows about the tremendous UV content of sunlight. Sun blocker...anyone? Dermatology folks are very