Porosity of laserjet ink...
2009-03-01 by Nick de Smith
Hi, I m using an HP LaserJet 1300 set to Dark on 600dpi to print simple PCBs (10mil or greater widths). When I look at the masked areas under a microscope
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2009-03-01 by Nick de Smith
Hi, I m using an HP LaserJet 1300 set to Dark on 600dpi to print simple PCBs (10mil or greater widths). When I look at the masked areas under a microscope
2009-03-01 by javaguy11111
Drain cleaners like Red Devil or Crystal Drano are sodium hydroxide. It my have little metal shavings in it to make it fizz. Since I use it to strip negative
2009-03-01 by brorikubbebol
No you don t understand my approach. The print on the plastic film or direct on the PCB will protect the photo resist from the UV light. witch men that you can
2009-03-01 by Ben
... resist? ... So far all I find is Washing Soda, Soda Ash, Sodium Carbonate which are all the some thing. Ben
2009-03-01 by Mark Robinson
... Try looking for caustic soda rather than washing soda. It s in supermarkets and hardware shops here.
2009-03-01 by Ben
Well I needed to make a board this weekend but did not realize that I was out of the developer. I use the M G Chemicals 600 series board with positive resist.
2009-03-01 by Ben
... If you have positive or negative board you would not want to print directly to the board with a printer. If at least if I understood what you are saying
2009-03-01 by brorikubbebol
There`s a wherry net solution to the problem concerning getting a god PCB. (This tutorial is optimised for yous with a modified ink jet printer. Not a laser.)
2009-03-01 by brorikubbebol
There`s a wherry net solution to the problem concerning getting a god PCB. (This tutorial is optimised for yous with a modified ink jet printer. Not a laser.)
2009-02-28 by Steve
The Fireball is great, especially if you want to save a few dollars by assembling it yourself. It does more than PCBs, too. Steve Greenfield
2009-02-27 by Nick de Smith
Hi - new to this group, so Hello ! Anyway, I ve been using acetone to do the final clean of my copper before ironing (scrub with abrasive rubber, scrub with
2009-02-27 by mlerman@ix.netcom.com
I have a 360 and I love it. Excellent support, too. No affiliation with them, just a big fan! I also have a used t-tech that I d be interested in selling. My
2009-02-27 by Herbert E. Plett
take a look at http://www.fireballcnc.com/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Fireballcnc/
2009-02-26 by trevwhite74
I have an LPKF milling machine with cabinet. It is true they are not cheap and well the tools are not cheap. The results are fantastic but at a cost. Now that
2009-02-26 by Chris Trask
... See if you can locate one of those old enclosures we used to use for printers. Either that or put it into a walk-in closet with a lot of clothes. Those
2009-02-26 by Cristian
Try eBay : $ 499 for a new machine. Cristian ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2009-02-26 by roycepipkins
This stuff is awesome, recommend it as well. I got some huge sheets from American Science and Surplus, but I think they ve run out now. You can cut the stuff
2009-02-26 by rf33333
Hi, I m looking for good CNC machine for PCB. I found one www.accuratecnc.com (Accurate 360) I think the machine is suitable for
2009-02-26 by awakephd
... Hmmm, that offers an interesting approach. I had seen this but dismissed it as too thin for my needs; maybe I need to re-evaluate ...
2009-02-26 by rmustakos
Andy, To solve the double sided and alignment problems at the same time, use this stuff: 5.5 x 6 Scissor Cut SS Copper Clad 0.016 thick.
2009-02-25 by Stefan Trethan
One would think that a large aluminium plate, or copper if you are that wealthy, would be more suitable for better heat transfer? I used an aluminium plate for
2009-02-25 by Harvey White
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 09:41:25 -0700, you wrote: Would beat the heck out of a T-shirt press. Probably better than a laminator. However, the smooth sided one
2009-02-25 by Jim
... I used a thick piece of steel to avoid uneven heating and distortion while clamping. When I heat the steel, my thermocouple (on the top surface) lags the
2009-02-25 by Chris Trask
... for ... perhaps ... a ... between a ... would be ... That s what I felt would result, and I was thinking that using an electric waffle iron would enable
2009-02-25 by Jim
Chris, I have not tried an waffle iron, but I got a 1 inch thick piece of steel (4x5x1 inch) and lapped it to make a very flat surface, attached a thermo
2009-02-25 by Stefan Trethan
From what I recall of past discussions it does not always work so well to use plates. The problem is that even if the plates are totally flat, the results
2009-02-25 by Chris Trask
I m very much interested in trying this laser toner transfer method for homebrewing single-sided PC boards, and the thought came to me that perhaps an electric
2009-02-25 by Stefan Trethan
Seems like I bought the wrong thing again. Will the concentrated stuff deal with rosin flux? Do you rinse the boards with de-ionised water or just tap water?
2009-02-25 by Ben
... blanks? This may not be the cheapest place but Mouser www.mouser.com carries the M G Chemical boards. Myself I use the 600 Series pos. resist but they
2009-02-25 by awakephd
I am sure this question has been asked a million times, but I don t seem to be succeeding in searching for it. The only result I found was for abcfab on ebay
2009-02-24 by Russell Shaw
... I have water-based stuff called safewash 2000 that works really well in concentrated form from a bottle. The spray-can foamy version of it is much
2009-02-24 by Stefan Trethan
The alcohol won t do anything to the toner transfer component legend either. Most of the time i don t bother with removing the flux. If it isn t too messy i
2009-02-24 by pgdion1
... When I had solder training (oh, 15+ years ago?) we used alcohol. We used Flux Off or a Freon wash before that but when Freon was banned we moved to
2009-02-24 by pgdion1
... Wow, I forgot about radio shack. That looks like it might be the same stuff. The Kester 44 is hard to find but it s a Rosin RA flux and came in a 2oz
2009-02-24 by pgdion1
... Wow Derward, that is impressive. I, like Stefan, am amazed. I can do 8/8 well with TT (I prefer 10/10). I think I could do 6mil if I needed to (especially
2009-02-24 by pgdion1
... in the US.) ... *Laughing* - you know Stefan, we tried to go metric back in the 70 s, it just wouldn t take here. Dare to be different I guess. Funny how
2009-02-24 by awakephd
... Acetone takes the flux I ve been using right off. Of course, it also takes any toner silk screen right off too. :)
2009-02-24 by Frank Winter
Hi, I use 20mil sewing pins (available at sewing supply stores) which are, I think, brass coated, steel pins to align 2 layers. These pins are very handy for
2009-02-24 by Viper62pr
I ve been looking for a good microscope for a while but they are pricey. My eyes aren t what they used to be I want to get more into smd Maybe you can take
2009-02-24 by Donald H Locker
That s the only way to _really_ impress them. Get a foot in the door and show them you can do the job. Keep it up! Flexibility, consistency, accuracy,
2009-02-23 by James Bishop
I use a flux pen instead of paste usually, its like a felt-tipped marker, very easy to use. Speaking of flux - does anyone know of an easy way to remove the
2009-02-23 by warrenbrayshaw
Derward Could you confirm that by 1 to 3 mil you mean 0.001 inch to 0.003 inch (1 to 3 milli-inches) and not 1 millimeter to 3 millimeters. This confusion
2009-02-23 by Adam Seychell
... Be sure to include photos of your 1 mil (25um) width/spaced copper tracks, with the TT method. I m curious. I m sure others here would be interested in how
2009-02-23 by Derward Myrick
You are correct I did not mean 1 mil but 1 oz. 1 oz is about all I use for faster etch. Derward ... From: Stefan Trethan To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2009-02-23 by Stefan Trethan
But one mil copper would be like 25um thick, as far as i know only 18um and 35um is available easily? (It is called 1oz and 1/2oz of copper weight per some
2009-02-23 by Derward Myrick
... From: Stefan Trethan To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:21 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Surface Mount I am using
2009-02-23 by Stefan Trethan
From your description our methods differ very little. What copper foil thickness do you have on your boards? Do you have any photos or scans of boards with
2009-02-23 by Derward Myrick
Stefan, This is how I make the boards. The best solution I have ever used is one part muriatic acid(27% the kind used to clean bricks) and two parts hydrogen
2009-02-23 by Stefan Trethan
Many people swear by plain rosin flux, me included. It s pretty inert so can be left on the boards. To apply it to a board you can dissolve the rosin in some
2009-02-23 by awakephd
... Okay, I ll have to get some paste flux. I noticed that Radio Shack sells a tin of paste rosin flux -- would that be suitable?