Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making negatives
2009-08-17 by DJ Delorie
... Me too, or Silkjet. Both seem to work well for me, although I had to write my own printer driver to get enough ink onto the page.
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2009-08-17 by DJ Delorie
... Me too, or Silkjet. Both seem to work well for me, although I had to write my own printer driver to get enough ink onto the page.
2009-08-17 by leon Heller
... From: pr0pert To: Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:53 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making negatives
2009-08-17 by Steve
Please start a new thread by starting a new message. When you try to start a thread by replying to another message, even when you delete everything visible
2009-08-16 by pr0pert
I am new here and have been following the posts for a while. My first boards were done back in the 60s using a spray on photoresist made by Dynachem. I have
2009-08-16 by Piers Goodhew
It s made by http://www.aimsolder.com.au I bought it at Jaycar, http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3038&keywords=solder+paste&form=KEYWORD - pretty
2009-08-16 by Cristian
What kind of solder paste you use, please? Cristian [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2009-08-16 by Piers Goodhew
Thanks, Stefan. Well, I have now used it and, while I shouldn t be surprised, it is amazing! 0603 LEDs really are easy. Think I wont be drilling many .8mm
2009-08-16 by Stefan Trethan
As far as I know freezing is not recommended, it may separate. Refrigeration is advised. ST
2009-08-16 by Piers Goodhew
Hi, just took delivery of my first syringe of solder paste to noodle with. As it s pretty likely that I ll be having a lot left after I noodle, I m just
2009-08-16 by DJ Delorie
... Well, the metal is 2 mil thick, so you get 2 mil of undercutting. Once you ve started etching through, the sides of the hole are exposed to etchant also. I
2009-08-15 by Adam Seychell
... Unlike persulfates, the FeCl3 and CuCl2 etch reactions produce relatively insoluble copper(I) chloride at the surface, which acts as a barrier for further
2009-08-15 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Thanks for the link, so the speed is determined by presenting fresh etchant continuously. Any thoughts on what affects the undercutting? ... From: DJ Delorie
2009-08-15 by jcarlosmor
... I still have some AQ 3000. Try to download the datasheet and follow the instructions exactly as they are. I prefer dry film photoresists, but the AQ 3000
2009-08-15 by Philip Pemberton
Hi guys, After lots of umm -ing and aah -ing, I ve decided to take the plunge and have a go at SMD reflow using a toaster oven (or, in my case, a mini
2009-08-14 by DJ Delorie
... http://www.delorie.com/pcb/brass/
2009-08-14 by DJ Delorie
... Read the Pulsar site for the full details, but basically, the key is that the spent FeCl is quickly replaced by fresh FeCl at the copper surface. You
2009-08-14 by Kim Vellore
Wondering why this would be faster than dipping the board in FeCl Kim
2009-08-14 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Has anyone tried this method for chemical machining. I am making some encoder disks for the digital DC servos I am building and was going to use conventional
2009-08-14 by Don
Has anyone tried using the Genesis AQ 3000 liquid Photoresist product? This is a liquid water-based negative resist that is manufactured in the USA. I would
2009-08-14 by Mike Phillips
Great info DJ, thanks! Mike
2009-08-14 by DJ Delorie
... Yup, this is the standard Pulsar method (as noted in the instructable), and the whole reason behind the Green TRF. With preheated FeCl, a sponge, and
2009-08-14 by roycepipkins
The article doesn t say it, but the extreme speed only works with 1/2 oz boards. I tested the method on my 1 oz copper and found that it shaved only a few
2009-08-14 by sailingto
I usually drill a few holes before etching to allow getting the backside lined up good (on double sided boards), then drill all the other thru holes after
2009-08-14 by Adam Seychell
... For 50um lines you want to be exposing with a very parallel light source, and possible machine spray developing. 50um is about the thickness of dry film
2009-08-14 by William Alford
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/ William Alford GI Motility Medical Research Page http://alford.grimtrojan.com/
2009-08-14 by DJ Delorie
... Try wet lamination: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/photoresist/Wet_Lamination_of_Photoresist_for_Hobbyists.pdf Also, a heat gun is probably
2009-08-14 by Don
I am trying to use MG chemicals dry film as a photo resist for etching metal parts but so far I have had difficulty with the emulsion not adhering well to the
2009-08-14 by Don
I need to do some metal etching and I am looking for a liquid photoresist. I have worked with Positiv 20 in the past and had some good results but I am having
2009-08-11 by michael tenore
Yes! I have used Staples photo basic gloss works well also bu it is harder to get off than the HP paper ________________________________ From: Mike Phillips
2009-08-11 by Mike Phillips
Your laminator has a lot of heat capacity compared to mine. I use double sided boards that take longer to heat. Although 10 passes might render any differences
2009-08-11 by michael tenore
I usually drill before stripping ! It makes it easier to spot center the hols when I drill with my dremel drill stand.. ________________________________ From:
2009-08-11 by michael tenore
Ok I use the slowest speed. a full sheet takes about a minute I used 10 -11 passes thru the laminator the laminator is not modified the board is single sided
2009-08-11 by DJ Delorie
Interesting question - strip toner first, or drill first? I d think the burrs from the drilling would interfere with the toner removal.
2009-08-11 by Mike Phillips
I meant 40 inches per minute.... Mike
2009-08-11 by Mike Phillips
Hi Mike, That 535 laminator has 4 rollers and can go up to 40 feet/min. I have some questions about your process. 1) How long does it take to pass a letter
2009-08-11 by michael tenore
Hi! I scanned one of my recent boards to the Photo section! This was done with HP Presentation paper and applied to the Board with a GBC H535 Laminator Board
2009-08-10 by Mike Phillips
Mike, What papers have you used? That HP Advanced Photo paper is just melted to the copper. 6 hours of soaking did nothing. I even blasted it with carb
2009-08-10 by Mike Phillips
Model Aviation (official publication of the AMA). Same one I ve used for a few years now. Mike
2009-08-09 by michael tenore
My laminator LCD screen says 328 degrees. I dont have anyway to confirm the temp! I pass my boards thru about ten times. I never have any trouble with the
2009-08-09 by Donald H Locker
Hi, Mike. May I ask what magazine you are using to supply the paper? I ve heard variously catalogue pages and fashion magazines. If you d care to share your
2009-08-09 by Mike Phillips
... My DVM has a temperature input using a K type T/C. So the temperature is read directly from the DVM in F or C. ... I slide the T/C into the output of the
2009-08-09 by sailingto
Mike, Where do you have your thermocouple checking temperature? How are you reading the mV from the Thermocouple? Are you using J or K T/C? I am using J
2009-08-09 by Mike Phillips
Since the HP Presentation paper we have is the same part number then the only thing that is different is our printers, laminators, and the temperatures used.
2009-08-09 by michael tenore
I will try it next time thanks mike ________________________________ From: Stefan Trethan To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent:
2009-08-09 by Stefan Trethan
If you ever need to do a lot of boards, and don t want sore thumbs, a synthetic sponge or piece of foam rubber works very well. the material really grabs the
2009-08-09 by michael tenore
I never have a problem with HP presentation paper and I soak it for a while in warm water and then peel off the paper carefully. then i resoak and rub off with
2009-08-09 by michael tenore
Yes you have sto soak it for a few minutes.. Water penetrates all the way thru! Some one suggested soaking paper in Vinegar. But I have not tried this yet!
2009-08-09 by michael tenore
Ok Mike ,Here it is! Paper name = HP Presentation Paper 130g Glossy 34lb Brightness 97 On the back of the package there is a small Bar code It says Product
2009-08-09 by Cristian
... I ve heard that somewhere exists an extra foil (green?) used to correct the blue foil. Could someone send me a link, please? C [Non-text portions of this
2009-08-09 by macmyke01
I ve had success using Press-n-peel paper . I used the blue instead of the wet and it worked surprisingly well. Here s a source for it: