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2004-06-11 by John Loffink
Yes, just put the 220K resistor from where the wire on the board is connected and wire it to the middle terminal on the freq pot. What I try to emphasize is that the Steiner VCF circuit is sensitive to the gain of the transistors, which is a highly variable parameter. You may or
2004-06-11 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>Thanks...but do you mean putting the resistor(220K) between the >2 teminals on the pot? The ones with the +ve and, the center >one that you connect to the board with a wire? > >Dave Nope. I mean putting it inline with the positive wire, so disconnect the positive wire from the p
2004-06-11 by earthtodylan2000
Thanks...but do you mean putting the resistor(220K) between the 2 teminals on the pot? The ones with the +ve and, the center one that you connect to the board with a wire? Dave --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , sasami@h... wrote: > > Dave, > > > My 2nd question is from your Synt
2004-06-11 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
Dave, > My 2nd question is from your Synthacon mod webpage under... > >"Notes from John Loffink" > >Again it's... > >" I also added 220K of series resistance to the FREQ knob." > > Do I just put a 220k resistor from wire from the board to the >middle terminal of the FREQ pot? > >
2004-06-10 by earthtodylan2000
Ken, My 2nd question is from your Synthacon mod webpage under... "Notes from John Loffink" Again it's... " I also added 220K of series resistance to the FREQ knob." Do I just put a 220k resistor from wire from the board to the middle terminal of the FREQ pot? I'd just like to und
2004-06-10 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>1. Question: > > The 1k trimmer is a pot(?) (a small dedicated trim-pot) cut the wire going from the middle of the resonance pot, and solder the two sides of the cut wire to the trim pot - one to the middle terminal, and the other to one of the outside terminals (which outside t
2004-06-10 by earthtodylan2000
Ken, Thanks for the info. I like the overdrive I just don't like that the resonance goes up and down then up again as I turn the pot CW and CCW. 1. Question: The 1k trimmer is a pot(?) that goes from the wire on the board, to the middle terminal on the pot(1k)? Right? Then to eit
2004-06-10 by Fernando
Do the filter act on the received radio signal? I may use a switch to have that available, so when you touch a screw on the panel you get that strong RFI! =:) f * > Dear all, > > OK, I couldn't wait for my Synthacon board to arrive, so I mounted my > veroboard version to the fron
2004-06-08 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>Hi everyone. I've just finished populating my master divider board >and I am trying to figure out what the front panel layout should >be. I am unsure as to what B1, B2, D1 and D2 are on the schematic. >Is this the phase shifting network? Yes. 1 = clk divided by 2 2 = clk divided
2004-06-08 by Andy Wilson
Dear all, OK, I couldn't wait for my Synthacon board to arrive, so I mounted my veroboard version to the front panel. Take a look here if you're interested. http://www.techman.synth.net/techman_website2_00003d.htm Really pleased with the sound. And yes, it does have some nasty ov
2004-06-07 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>"...First, decreasing the size of the input divider resistor on the CV >input section, 1K in Ken's circuit, increases the range of the >frequency control. I put 2.2K in parallel with the 1K resistors, or >you can swap the 1K with a 680 ohm resistor." > >Where are those on the ci
2004-06-07 by earthtodylan2000
Hello, My Synthacon is working but seems a bit too hot and the Frequency knob control is a bit too wide. Trying the John Loffink mods... "...Output "level" jumper/resistor: I put 180K in the level position, in addition to the 47K already in the op amp feedback path, or just put 2
2004-06-06 by darkboneus
Hi everyone. I've just finished populating my master divider board and I am trying to figure out what the front panel layout should be. I am unsure as to what B1, B2, D1 and D2 are on the schematic. Is this the phase shifting network? What have people been labeling 1c, 1a, 2c, 2a
2004-06-04 by earthtodylan2000
That rules. It is very simple to understand now. Thanks for the help. I'd love to build a Bode/Moog Frequency Shifter or the Bode/Moog String Filter clone next. Buy Ken Stone boards people...
2004-06-04 by earthtodylan2000
It says RES then a 1K below it. Is this a place to put the Resonance Pot or put a 1K resistor? Thanks... --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , sasami@h... wrote: > >Another thing... > > > >What from the board gets connected to the resonance pot? > > > There are two holes on the PCB
2004-06-04 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
I've done a few updates to the Synthacon web page. Hopefully it will make things clearer. (and hopefully I didn't make any errors!!) Ken _______________________________________________________________________ Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@... Modular Synth PCBs for sale http://w
2004-06-04 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>Another thing... > >What from the board gets connected to the resonance pot? > There are two holes on the PCB right next to the word "RES" these ARE THE ONLY CONNECTIONS to the Res pot. The third tag on the res pot is NOT used. >Will that pot get a +15 to it as well? > >Thanks >
2004-06-04 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
> What are all the other openings (near the power) for and what >gets wired to them? To put it simply, ignore them. Not everybody uses MOTM connectors. These holes are to allow for other types of power connection. The first "+" Somewhere convenient to connect the positive of the
2004-06-04 by earthtodylan2000
Another thing... What from the board gets connected to the resonance pot? Will that pot get a +15 to it as well? Thanks
2004-06-04 by earthtodylan2000
Hi, Thanks for everyones help. I'm goint to post my quesrions about the inputs again What are all the other openings (near the power) for and what gets wired to them? The other "+" "-" "+VE" "+6V" "-VE" And are all the pots supposed to get some sort of voltage?
2004-06-04 by Scott Deyo
Ditto. I've built many CGS projects, and I've had two temporary failures. I screwed up a Psycho LFO by switching wires between two pots. I had to put it down for a week before I could see it, it was so obvious! My Synthacon filter worked, but not the highpass input. Solder joints
2004-06-03 by Scott Stites
It's a long shot - they seem to be well spaced on the PCB, but.... If for any reason your metal can transistors happen to be touching together, that'll really kill the functionality of the filter. Cheers, Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: cgs@... > To: cgs_synth@yahoogroup
2004-06-03 by cgs@oldmail.charlielamm.com
On mine, I had different issues, but like this user, at first my synthacon didn't work. I ended up fixing things by checking each resistor value with a DVM. I didn't have a value wrong, but, I did find a short (no resistance, where there should have been some). Correcting this--i
2004-06-02 by Ryan Williams
The TL071ACN, the ACN is fine, thats for the package, in this case dip. earthtodylan2000 wrote: > Ken, > I've gone over the whole board all the whole board and it look > alright. as for finding the problem. it might help to check some voltages around the circuit without any input
2004-06-02 by earthtodylan2000
Yes...I just looked at it and is says TL071ACN Does the ACN at the end make a difference? --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , Jay wrote: > on 6/2/04 1:49 PM, earthtodylan2000 at earthtodylan2000@y... wrote: > > > 2. I have used the exact transistors(metal can 2N2907, 2N222A) > > y
2004-06-02 by Jay
on 6/2/04 1:49 PM, earthtodylan2000 at earthtodylan2000@... wrote: > 2. I have used the exact transistors(metal can 2N2907, 2N222A) > you call for. Everything else too is from you exact specs. You sure you used a TL071 instead of a TL072?
2004-06-02 by earthtodylan2000
Ken, I've gone over the whole board all the whole board and it look alright. 1. I am only getting this very wrong and noisy signal when I put something through the Hi Pass filter and nothing when running through the Band and Lo pass inputs 2. I have used the exact transistors(met
2004-06-02 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
> I just tried to build up my Synthacon. Total nightmare... I'd suggest you go very carefully over the board looking for construction errors. If you have not used the exact transistors specified, make sure they are in the correct way around. of the very few that haven't worked, i
2004-06-02 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
I'd boost the signal to around 10 times. See the Stomp box adapter. Ken >Forgive me if this is a silly question... > >I've got my parts and pieces together to build the synthacon filter >as a first project and was wondering how much line and mic >levels should pre-amped respectiv
2004-06-02 by eblake_smith
Forgive me if this is a silly question... I've got my parts and pieces together to build the synthacon filter as a first project and was wondering how much line and mic levels should pre-amped respectively to sound correct if I put them through the VCF. Thanks in advance.
2004-06-01 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
You certainly can use the 100n caps (0.1uF MKT or ceramic). They're actually better at HF noise suppression than the 10uF could ever hope to be. Ken >Putting together a joystick controller using a pair of DC Mixers. On >the schemos (and old board), the power supply iso caps are 1
2004-06-01 by earthtodylan2000
Hi, I just tried to build up my Synthacon. Total nightmare... 1. Only getting sound out of the Hi Pass input 2. The sound is super fuzzy with lots of harmonics. 3. Ground hum. 4. Pots dont' seem to control anything. 5. My Binary Zone does seem to control the CV frequency input. D
2004-06-01 by data2action
Putting together a joystick controller using a pair of DC Mixers. On the schemos (and old board), the power supply iso caps are 10uf electrolytics; but on the PC board it sez 100n and no polarity markings. Can I use the smaller value? bob
2004-05-29 by charlesosthelder
Hey all! Got a working RM using the Mouser transformer part #42TM018. This differs from Mike Marsh's RM in that he used a micro transformer with a lower secondary impedance (2K). Sounds prety much the same. I'm following mine with a non-inverting amp and buffer arrangement using
2004-05-26 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
Wire them as standard input attenuators. signal in to CW end. Wiper to input of filter. CCW end to 0v/gnd Ken >Regarding these potentiometers for HP/BP & LP, do they need to be >put in series with the 47k resistors ? > >thx, >Steven >--- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , sasami@h...
2004-05-26 by thee_vaporizer
Regarding these potentiometers for HP/BP & LP, do they need to be put in series with the 47k resistors ? thx, Steven --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , sasami@h... wrote: > > >Please correct me if I'm wrong. > > > >Frequency=100k ohm audio > > Linear, not audio > > >Resonance= 1k
2004-05-25 by Mike Marsh
Hey Ken - You're right, it just works! Uh, that is when you PAY ATTENTION to the schemo and board and DON'T FORGET to add the wire link. Doh! Dual BPs with dry mix and master. Two ins, IN 1 normalled to IN 2 for a single signal. Dual outs, normalled too. BTW, the filters sound NI
2004-05-24 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
Simply plug them in :) If you look at the bandpass page, where the mutiple filter is detailed, you will see that the BP filters are simply fed to a DC mixer without any decoupling. Ken >Hi All - > >I'd like to connect the outputs of two band pass filters into a DC >Mixer for, um,
2004-05-24 by Mike Marsh
Ausio? How about: audio... --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , "Mike Marsh" wrote: > Hi All - > > I'd like to connect the outputs of two band pass filters into a DC > Mixer for, um, mixing. Will this work with ausio signals? Should I > AC couple the BPs? If so, what's a good cap v
2004-05-24 by Mike Marsh
Hi All - I'd like to connect the outputs of two band pass filters into a DC Mixer for, um, mixing. Will this work with ausio signals? Should I AC couple the BPs? If so, what's a good cap value for CX in this case? Thanks! Mike
2004-05-24 by Fernando
I see. Thank you very much. f * --- In cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com , sasami@h... wrote: > >Thank you Ken. > >I hope we soon read more about this new boards! > > A partial update has been done to the website. A lot more work still has to > be done though. > > Ken
2004-05-24 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>Thank you Ken. >I hope we soon read more about this new boards! A partial update has been done to the website. A lot more work still has to be done though. Ken _______________________________________________________________________ Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@... Modular Synt
2004-05-24 by Fernando
Thank you Ken. I hope we soon read more about this new boards! f *
2004-05-24 by sasami@hotkey.net.au
>I'd like to know more about their functionality if you have a minute (or anyone >that can help) > >CGS55 Analog Switch Matrix: >I see you switch signals to individual outs or a common out. And there is also a common >input, so it's a very versatile switcher. A very nice non-sequ
2004-05-24 by Larry Hendry
As always John, thanks for your insight. Larry H --- John Loffink jloffink@... > wrote: > Instead of the LF356s on the ASR I used CA3140AEs. Most important > parameters for a S&H buffer op amp are settling time and input bias > current. > The LF356 has better settling time but as
2004-05-23 by Richard Brewster
Thanks for the information, John. I will use CA3140AE chips and solder them in. I am still going with the 100n WIMA cap. -Richard Brewster John Loffink wrote: >Instead of the LF356s on the ASR I used CA3140AEs. Most important >parameters for a S&H buffer op amp are settling time
2004-05-23 by Fernando
Wow! The new boards looks great. Thanks Ken! I'd like to know more about their functionality if you have a minute (or anyone that can help) CGS55 Analog Switch Matrix: I see you switch signals to individual outs or a common out. And there is also a common input, so it's a very ve
2004-05-23 by John Loffink
Instead of the LF356s on the ASR I used CA3140AEs. Most important parameters for a S&H buffer op amp are settling time and input bias current. The LF356 has better settling time but as the switch remains open for the entire clock cycle this parameter is not important in this circ
2004-05-23 by Larry Hendry
Well, I plan to leave the original 2 I built stock. I am building 2 more. I think I'll use the cap you have listed below (thanks). Like you, on this one I intend to socket the chips so I can compare. Once I know what I want, I'll go back and change the originals. Now, here is ano
2004-05-22 by Richard Brewster
Hi Larry, Yes, I want to use the 100n to lessen the droop. Isn't the LF356 better here than a TL071? I am looking at the LF356 data sheet, and one of the features is extremely fast settling time. Must be a reason Ken picked it over the TL071. I socket all my CGS boards, because t